Project Disk Brakes- T-minus two days. The kit has arrived..

[Treozen]

So ...here it is, the assemblage of rotating gizmos, vacuum actuated thingies and pincer-like devices that will revolutionize my braking system and turn it into something that actually stops the car....or so the guy in the covered wagon and top hat claimed anyway. I also bought a lovely bottle of miracle cure-all for my bad knee.

This will be this weekends project, wish me luck. I'll do my best to document as I go and assuming all goes well, post some sort of write-up

[Terri McNeill]

I would love to see a write-up with photos for this project!!

[RedBird64]

I'm looking forward to seeing how this goes too, including the cure-all.

One thing I've been curious about in regards to these kits; If say 20 years down the road someone needs to do brakes on the car, where does one get the parts (calipers, rotors, pads..). Are they just standard over the counter parts?

[Treozen]

I'm looking forward to seeing how this goes too, including the cure-all.

One thing I've been curious about in regards to these kits; If say 20 years down the road someone needs to do brakes on the car, where does one get the parts (calipers, rotors, pads..). Are they just standard over the counter parts?

I've just started that research - Rotors are from a 76 Granada (75 - 80 I think) and I believe the master cylinder is from a C3 corvette - I compared it to my own corvette and the one I used for my 57 chevy - looks identical. The Prop valve is also a common GM universal disk / Drum valve. The outer bearing is a standard A34 (though I think '61 and '62 need an A2). The booster is a fairly common aftermarket booster - not sure of its original application, but its available. Calipers are probably Chevy S-10 or similar, but I still need to run that down. The inner bearing is probably an A13 (stock application for the Granada rotor) but I need to confirm that. Bottom line though is that everything looks to be available, aside from the spindle adapters and brackets- those are probably the only unique parts

Right now I'm trying to figure out the best way to run the brake switch - I got a new one with the kit, but there's no way to tie it in. Current thinking is a tee from the rear line. I also need to figure out if the '63 runs 1/4inch line to the rear flex-hose, and then converts back to 3/16 to the wheels or if its 3/16 from the master back. Ideally I want to replace all the metal / rubber lines but we'll see how much time I have.

[Joe Johnston]

Right now I'm trying to figure out the best way to run the brake switch

Check out mechanical switches that mount on the pedal instead of using a pressure switch.

[RedBird64]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping it was something like that and it makes sense they'd use as many existing parts as possible.

[Treozen]

So, I'm not sure of the best way to document this project - different threads, keep it in this one, make a new one.....but I figured I'd keep everything here until someone tells me otherwise.

Tonight I did some prep work on the master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake switch connections. This sort of thing can eat up time quickly and I want most of my time tomorrow spent on the mechanical swap rather than trying to find brake fittings - besides, I'd like some confidence going in that Ive a reasonable chance of getting the lines back together!

The proportioning valve from the kit I have is a very common prop valve used on GM applications - I have the exact same one on my 57 Chevy and never knew it - I got that one from a junk yard years ago. I see this style of valve on a lot of modified "hotrods" with a disk / drum combo. Its sells for around $60 on Amazon. Picture:



Now, there are many methods to hook up the stock brake light switch (including not using the stock brake light switch at all), I'm presenting two here - obviously I can't say which is better or if there are any unexpected issues because its not in the car yet, but here's what you'll need if you want to try it my way:

1 - A 3/8ths thread-size union. This happens to be a compression union but you wont need the end nuts or the compression parts - just the threaded rod. Note that this union does have ends that should mate well with the double flare fittings, but you really shouldn't use compression fittings in general - I'm only using it for its threaded rod, not for the compression function.

2 - A 3/16ths line tee. You CANNOT use just any tee of the right size, you need the double flare mating surface inside so that your lines will get tight and not leak.

3 - a 9/16th threaded fitting that reduces down to a 3/16ths line. May be called 9/16ths - 3/8ths.

4 - The brake light switch. This new one came with my kit, but I don't see why you couldn't use the old one.




Assembly Option 1

This is option 1 - it preserves the two front ports for the calipers and keeps the switch wires out of the way. Potential downsides include interference from the booster given how far back it goes before you can hook up the rear line. It doesn't do much for a tidy line set up either.




Assembly Option 2

This option will make for nicer line routing and give extra space at the back for running the rear line, BUT it uses one of the front ports for the switch and relies on the lower port to tee-off for the calipers. Option 1 is the most common configuration for the front and rear lines, but I looked at the manufactures website and a PDF of the Prop valve - They say its an acceptable alternative to tee-off the lower line to the calipers. My gut tells me I want the calipers to have an independent line out of the prop valve, but looking at it - there's only one 3/16th line feeding the calipers from the M/C anyway and it doesn't seem to matter if its splits internal or external to the prop valve.





So there it is - a couple of options for the brake switch and the connections I'm using to hook everything together to the prop valve. It took quite a while in the parts store to come up with the right bits and pieces - you might find a better selection and be able to make substitutes or better choices.

With this squared away, and assuming it all works under pressure (it should) I ought to be able to get the lines connected and bled with a minimum of fuss. The potential weak point is the compression union, but in that event I'd just make up a short piece of 3/16 line with the right fittings on each end.

[Jim Patterson]

Whose kit is this and where was it purchased?

Thanks!

[Treozen]

Whose kit is this and where was it purchased?

Thanks!

Its by Auto City Classic, purchased direct from them (though they also sell via eBay). The metal brake line and bending tools are not part of the kit.

Don't run out and buy it though - Once I get everything sorted, I'm going to have a full write-up - the short version however is that this kit leaves a lot to be desired - remians to be seen how Auto City Classic's customer service responds to my feedback, and that might help temper my view of the kit (or not) - I contacted them today.

[eb88]

Can I just say now thanks very much in advance for taking the time to do this all Treozen! Looking back, the disc upgrade question has been asked about every year for the last decade on this forum. Unfrotunatley for purists (or idiots) like me i'd rather risk it all and run drums in each corner just to keep my Kelsey Hayes wire wheels.. which also need tubes and do nothing but add to the danger! My god are they good to look at though..
Thanks again.

[Treozen]

Can I just say now thanks very much in advance for taking the time to do this all Treozen! Looking back, the disc upgrade question has been asked about every year for the last decade on this forum. Unfrotunatley for purists (or idiots) like me i'd rather risk it all and run drums in each corner just to keep my Kelsey Hayes wire wheels.. which also need tubes and do nothing but add to the danger! My god are they good to look at though..
Thanks again.

Sure thing - I had hoped to post a "perfect install" but instead it will be sort of a..."well, its done and here are the problems I had" but hopefully still useful.

I've started a new thread to chronicle the trials and tribulations...

http://www.vintagethunderbirdclub.net/p ... php?t=8899

[edpol]

Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried to use 1968 Galaxie/Fairlane/Torino spindles? Looking at pics of these and '63 spindles, it looks like they may fit, but possibly need reaming for the ball joints and tie rod ends to fit.
If they work, 14" disc brake wheels will fit the '68 calipers and rotors.

[Rogue]

and What about 1968 Tbird spindles?

[edpol]

Whoops! Did a little more research. '68 Galaxies and Tbirds use the same spindles, with a longer arm for the tie rod than the smaller models. Bottom pivots on the '68's are thicker than the'61-'66's, and use a different ball joint. The ball joints for '61-'66 Tbirds are the same, according to the parts catalog.
The '67 Tbirds use the same ball joints as the '68-'72 (and maybe later) Galaxies, according to the catalog. The difference is how the calipers are mounted. '65-'67 Tbirds have the same caliper mount. That was changed to the Galaxie style in '68.
I'll be digging a little further as to changing the lower control arm, which was suggested by another member in one of the disc brake conversion threads.
Galaxies had the coil spring mounted on top of the lower control arm. IF the '67 Tbird has the same spring setup as the earlier birds, the lower control arm should fit, which would make the swap a bit easier. I'll find out later.
Also, I'm mistaken on the wheel size. 15" wheels are required for the '68 Galaxie disc brakes. The smaller cars used smaller rotors and calipers, except for Torino GT's.

[Alan H. Tast]

Whoops! Did a little more research. '68 Galaxies and Tbirds use the same spindles, with a longer arm for the tie rod than the smaller models. Bottom pivots on the '68's are thicker than the'61-'66's, and use a different ball joint. The ball joints for '61-'66 Tbirds are the same, according to the parts catalog.
The '67 Tbirds use the same ball joints as the '68-'72 (and maybe later) Galaxies, according to the catalog. The difference is how the calipers are mounted. '65-'67 Tbirds have the same caliper mount. That was changed to the Galaxie style in '68.
I'll be digging a little further as to changing the lower control arm, which was suggested by another member in one of the disc brake conversion threads.
Galaxies had the coil spring mounted on top of the lower control arm. IF the '67 Tbird has the same spring setup as the earlier birds, the lower control arm should fit, which would make the swap a bit easier. I'll find out later.
Also, I'm mistaken on the wheel size. 15" wheels are required for the '68 Galaxie disc brakes. The smaller cars used smaller rotors and calipers, except for Torino GT's.

I'll make your research work a little easier: '67 front suspension is NOT the same as '61-'66, meaning the '67 is similar to the '68 in using a coil spring over the lower control arm. From what I've been reading (and if I remember correctly), the '68 disc setup is a one-year item in that it used a single piston: '69-newer used a two-piston floating caliper. T-birds used a 6"-wide 15" wheel between '67-'71 (and from what I can gather '72 as well) with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern: '73-'76 (and possibly '77-'78) used a 6"x15" wheel (possibly 6.5" wide) with with a 5x5" bolt pattern.

As an aside, I'm needing information on post-'66-'67 wheels for diameter, width, offset, backspacing, center hole and clear inside diameter for a series of articles I'm putting together for the Club's magazine, Thunderbird Scoop, and for use in revised copies of Original Factory Specification manuals. If anyone can be of assistance and forward information to me, please do so.