electrical or maybe a fuse
Moderator: ABQTBird
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Larry Jones
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:37 pm
electrical or maybe a fuse
Went out driving tonight and I wanted to put the lights on. All I had was my high beams. Also no turn signals either or brake light come on when I press the brake pedal either. Ihave light to the back and frontin the high beam on when I depress the floor switch the back lights still stay on but no front low beam or turn signals or brake lights. Too tired to check the fuses.With this summation would a fuse be causing this. This car is a 62 tbird. Thanks Larry
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Larry
Larry
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Larry Jones
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:37 pm
brake light switch
I forgot to indicate that one wire was off the brake light switch. I reattached but still no turn signals or backup brakes. I don't no how long the wire was off. How do you check the old sender. Our the two wires on top of the sender located on master cylinder is one a ground and the other hot. If someone could explain that to me. It would well be appreciaterd. Thank you Larry
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Larry
Larry
1. You need to check your fuses first. The brake light fuse is the 15Amp one marked Dome/Park/Rear on the right end of the fuse box. If that fuse is OK, then proceed with the following.
2. To check the brake light switch you will need a multimeter with clip leads and possibly a helper. Attach the clip leads to each post on the switch. Set the multimeter to ohms. Press on the brake pedal firmly (if the engine is not running), the meter should drop to 0 ohms. If it does nothing, the switch is bad.
3. To check the brake lights, just jumper the two wires together that attach to the switch with a clip lead. That sends 12V to the brake lights. You should have found the problem by now. If not, try the next step.
4. One wire always has 12V on it. That is the wire that comes from the fuse box. Both wires are green and may or may not have stripes on them. Mine do not have stripes as the many years of brake fluid have washed them away. Anyway, measure for 12V on each of those wires. One should have 12V and the other will not. If you don't have 12V on either wire, then you are not getting voltage from the fuse box to the switch.
2. To check the brake light switch you will need a multimeter with clip leads and possibly a helper. Attach the clip leads to each post on the switch. Set the multimeter to ohms. Press on the brake pedal firmly (if the engine is not running), the meter should drop to 0 ohms. If it does nothing, the switch is bad.
3. To check the brake lights, just jumper the two wires together that attach to the switch with a clip lead. That sends 12V to the brake lights. You should have found the problem by now. If not, try the next step.
4. One wire always has 12V on it. That is the wire that comes from the fuse box. Both wires are green and may or may not have stripes on them. Mine do not have stripes as the many years of brake fluid have washed them away. Anyway, measure for 12V on each of those wires. One should have 12V and the other will not. If you don't have 12V on either wire, then you are not getting voltage from the fuse box to the switch.
Tom in Albuquerque
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
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Larry Jones
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:37 pm
Found the problem
Hello Tom. When I last posted the thread and when I came home I noticed that one of the two wires that our connected to the brake light switch was completely disconnected. So I reconnected and now that solve that problem.I THOUGHT IT WAS A BAD DIMMER SWITCH. wRONG. My second problemI can only engage my high beam through the dimmer switch. I removed a front headlight and checked the socket. The high beam had 12 volts to it. The switched to the low beam nothing. There is two sets of inter connectors that is attached on the inside of the firewall then going through the firewall they come out. I had this problem several years ago.Had my wife hold onto the inner set on the firewall and I pulled from the inside and then reattached them again. But the only way Iam going to no that I have voltage on the red and black wire or number 13 In the jim Osborn electrical .Its difficult from looking down and putting a tester on that plug going into the firewall . Any suggestions for me. Larry
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Larry
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Larry Jones
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:37 pm
still no low beam or parking lights
I replaced the dimmer switch and still no low beam and the parking brakes our still out. If I jump the dimmer switch and still nothing then would you say its in the harness going through the firewall maybe a not so tight of a fit. Tom indicated I should have power coming from the switch plug in which I do. But I have no power from the headlight plug when disconnected except for the high beams In which the low beam comes on also. So all that the dimmer switch does shifts the power from low to high is that correct. Larry
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Larry
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Larry Jones
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:37 pm
dimmer switch
How many volts should the plug have that connects into the dimmer switch on the floor. Larry. Am I correct on how to jump the dimmer and plug. I was told with a jumper wire connect one end into the female plug which has the voltage. and touch the dimmer two terminals Is this while there both our disconnects to do this. Larry
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Larry
Larry
I'm having a hard time understanding your question, so I am going to walk you through this wiring diagram. It is a bit hard to see in places, but I have tried my best to hightlight the circuit. I am going to call the dimmer switch the low/high switch so as not confuse it with the dash dimmer switch.
Power for the headlights comes from the yellow wire on the voltage regulator and goes to the headlight switch.
From the headlight switch, a red yellow-stripe wire goes to the low/high switch on the floor. That is common 12V to power both low and high beams. There should be 12V there when you turn on the headlights. It is the top connector on the switch. Using a voltmeter with the headlights turned on, check the voltage between the top connector of the socket and a good ground for 12V. So, there are four wires there. The red yellow-stripe mentioned, a red black-stripe, and two green black-stripe. Looking at the diagram above, you can see that one of the green black-stripe wires goes to the high beam indicator in the speedometer.
Power for the low beam goes through the red-black stripe wire. Power for the high beam comes out as a the other green black-stripe wire. There is a junction at the headlight connector that sends power to the right headlight circuit. That is why you see four wires with two branching off and going to the left headlights.
The outer headlight is a 4002 dual filament bulb.The second filament comes on at high beam and the low beam filament turns off. The inner bulb is a 4001 single filament bulb that comes on at high beam.
Testing the switch: The top connector on the switch is common. That is where 12V comes into the switch.
Use a multimeter set to ohms and measure the terminal from the top common connector to the right terminal. That is low beam and should read 0.
When you press the switch, the low beam will turn off and the high beam circuit is activated. Move your ohmmeter to the left terminal and it should read 0.
This is the best I can do to help you. Please inform me of your progress.
Power for the headlights comes from the yellow wire on the voltage regulator and goes to the headlight switch.
From the headlight switch, a red yellow-stripe wire goes to the low/high switch on the floor. That is common 12V to power both low and high beams. There should be 12V there when you turn on the headlights. It is the top connector on the switch. Using a voltmeter with the headlights turned on, check the voltage between the top connector of the socket and a good ground for 12V. So, there are four wires there. The red yellow-stripe mentioned, a red black-stripe, and two green black-stripe. Looking at the diagram above, you can see that one of the green black-stripe wires goes to the high beam indicator in the speedometer.
Power for the low beam goes through the red-black stripe wire. Power for the high beam comes out as a the other green black-stripe wire. There is a junction at the headlight connector that sends power to the right headlight circuit. That is why you see four wires with two branching off and going to the left headlights.
The outer headlight is a 4002 dual filament bulb.The second filament comes on at high beam and the low beam filament turns off. The inner bulb is a 4001 single filament bulb that comes on at high beam.
Testing the switch: The top connector on the switch is common. That is where 12V comes into the switch.
Use a multimeter set to ohms and measure the terminal from the top common connector to the right terminal. That is low beam and should read 0.
When you press the switch, the low beam will turn off and the high beam circuit is activated. Move your ohmmeter to the left terminal and it should read 0.
This is the best I can do to help you. Please inform me of your progress.
Last edited by ABQTBird on Wed Jun 05, 2013 11:21 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Tom in Albuquerque
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
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Ian M Greer
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- Location: North Bay On. Canada
Nice work Tom !!!
Thank you! I spent quite some time on this. Even if it does't help the OP, at least it is here for the record. It also helps me learn at the same time.Now that is what I call beyond the call of duty, very nicely done.
Tom in Albuquerque
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
-
Larry Jones
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:37 pm
dimmer switch
Thanks a lot Tom. Will get to it this Sunday. Will let you no. If its not the switch then it has to been in the harness Larry
See a great deal on a T-Bird let me know!!
Larry
Larry
Then you need to do this simple check. With the low/high switch checked and connected go to the headlight junction pictured in my earlier post and disconnect the left headlights. Turn on your headlights and, depending on which position you left the switch in, you should have power on one of the two wires at the connector (there are acutually four wires there, remember two go off to the right headlights). The female is the low beam (red black-stripe) and the male (green black-stripe) is the high beam. Check each one for 12V from the connector to a good ground. If you find voltage on the green black-stripe wire, take a look and see if the high beam indicator is on in the speedometer, assuming the bulb is good. Click the switch and see where the voltage is. It will move to the opposite color wire. If you find that one of the wires has no voltage in either switch position, then you have a break from the switch to the connector for that color wire. Also, watch what the right headlights are doing. They should come on and switch between low and high beam.If its not the switch then it has to been in the harness Larry
My whole story here can be shown in two pictures. I started my engine to do this check since my battery hasn't been fully charged in awhile.
Low beam check:
High beam check:
Tom in Albuquerque
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
If you think it is worthy of the tech area, I can post it there. There have also been some questions regarding the dash dimmer switch. I have answered those questions based on the wiring diagram alone. I can't figure out how to get the switch out and get to the connector. Do you know how to do that? Is there some kind of retainer clip behind the dash? I guess I could take a look at the electrical assembly manual.Tom
You should cut and paste your post from June 5th to the Tech area.
Tom in Albuquerque
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
61-63 Forum Moderator
1962 Corinthian White Hardtop, Medium Chestnut Metallic #89 Leather, A/C, P/W
2003 Premium Torch Red/Performance White HT, Partial Accent Interior, 1 of 47.
Past T-Bird: 1960 Convertible, 1974-1978
