1964 Thunderbird Questions

[AngryBirds]

Alright so I have a few quick questions about the 64.

Is the brake light switch the same as a 65 switch and where is it located?

Are the window motors in the 64 different form 65 and 66 motors, because when I removed the door panels they appeared different near the top of the motor?

And an opinion on how to go about changing the oil pan since it is dented near the drain plug and leaking, should I just jack the engine up a bit to be able to take it off or will that not work?

Thanks in advance!

[RedBird64]

This is what I got from the Bird Nest site:
EDIT, in regards to power window motors:
63 & 64 are the same in front,
64 to 66 are the same in back.

65 & 66 are the same in front.

As far as the oil pan is concerned, after draining the oil you can remove all the bolts, lower the pan a few inches and then reach in and remove the two bolts securing the oil pump. let the pump drop into the pan making sure you also allow the oil pump drive rod to fall down. Then slide the pan with the pump and drive in it out from under the engine. It's a tight fit and the pan will rake against the crank shaft a bit but it will slide out. The pans are easy to bend to you can just bang the dent back out if you wan't. However, the nice thing about new pans is they have better drain bolts.
Not a bad job really, just have to be able to work by feel a little bit. If you have never replaced the rear seal then this is a good time to do it.

Scotty

[Tbird100636]

The brake light switches are not the same. On the 64, it's located on the master cylinder (screws in). The original connector is a molded rubber connector. If the terminals in the connector are rotted or corroded, a reproduction connector is available, MAC's has it. But, if you need to fix it in a pinch, they are bullet terminals (pins) on the switch, AZ has crimp-on terminals that fit the switch pins.

I think the window motors are different between 64 and 65-66.

The shop manual procedure for the oil pan involves unbolting the oil pump and setting it in the pan, and rotating the crankshaft so one of its counterweights isn't in the way when pulling the pan out. No jacking necessary. I will say from my experiance that it was easier to install the oil pump without the pickup, slide the pan in with the pickup in it, have someone tilt the pan up and install the pickup with the gasket. Swivel sockets come in handy for this part. Then just bolt the pan in.

[RedBird64]

Oops, sorry but I was addressing the power windows motors in my post. Sorry for the confusion.

[Randy Mattson]

When I needed a new brake light switch for my '65, I was told that the '65's switch is unique to the '65 Thunderbird because of the first year with the sequential turn signals using the same bulbs. It was difficult to find many years ago. The '64 and '66 are different...or so I was told.
Good Luck!
Randy Mattson

[AngryBirds]

Thanks all I will take this all into consideration when I tear into the car this weekend.

[sseebart]

Are you having trouble with the brake lights on your '64? If so, you will also want to check the relay. It's under the windshield washer bag on the driver's side inner fender.

I'm told these were installed by the dealer after a recall, so you may not have one. If you do, seems like they are a more likely culprit than the switch if the lights aren't coming on.

~Steve

[RedBird64]

I think they can be anyplace. The dealer who installed mine left it dangling under the master cyl.

[Tbird100636]

Our 64 was one of the ones that slipped through the cracks and doesn't have the relay. We haven't had a problem without it yet, though I am search for the directions to hook one up (one eBay seller has an NOS harness without the relay or the directions).

[RedBird64]

Years ago my relay wen't bad and I just by-passed it (dumb kid). The result was exactly what the recall addressed - it killed 4 or 5 brake switches before I finally rebuilt the relay and reinstalled it.

[AngryBirds]

Alright so is this what you guys were talking about? Is there a way to test and or repair it by just opening it?

http://i.imgur.com/eHdvn.jpg?1

[sseebart]

Yes, that's it. I'm certain it can be tested, but not sure what the procedure might be. It's pretty simple to test the switch itself, though, and by process of elimination figure out if the relay is bad.

Redbird said he rebuilt his. Mine was complete trash inside; I got a replacement from Bird Nest (to the tune of about $100!), but I've heard of guys who use a generic relay for a lot less.

Here's what mine looked like:



~Steve

[sseebart]

Angrybird--Not on topic, but what is that bolted to the inner fender well? I have a series of small plates welded in that area and always wondered what they are for.

~Steve

[RedBird64]

On a common relay like that, you can cut the actual relay portion out of it and leave only the metal parts at the terminals. Then find a 12V relay (Radio shack has parts that fit) and simply install a more modern relay inside of the old one. The new part handles as much or more current and will last much longer. This is the way I reworked my stop light relay and of course it looks concourse!
You end up with an original looking part that's brand new inside.

[AngryBirds]

Sseebart, I have the small plates your are talking about as well unless you mean the power steering reservoir?