Elderbrock FE Heads..installation..

bearclawjj · Post by **bearclawjj** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 3:07 pm

Hey guys, anybody got any experience installing this heads on the T-Bird? Stock heads need valve job, etc...so considering the eldebrock..

Thanks, Steve.

tbird · Post by **tbird** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 10:28 pm

Head on down to the modified section of the forum for info on installing different heads.

Beach Bum · Post by **Beach Bum** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:46 pm

Hmmm.... since this post is now actually *in* the modified section, I guess it got moved here.

The original question is a little vague. Aftermarket heads like those from Edelbrock and others are expensive performance upgrades. The real question is, if the original heads aren't cracked or otherwise damaged, why not have a good machine shop do a valve job on the existing heads... maybe have the exhaust side ported (you can do that yourself fairly easily) and save a bunch of money?

Weight is one answer. Putting on a pair of aluminum heads will save, what, about 80 pounds? That's significant. Performance is another reason. Theoretically, some aftermarket heads are tweaked to give more horsepower (by using a different combustion chamber design, bigger valves, etc.). How much more performance you really get is often exaggerated by the company selling the new heads.

I'm no fan of installing aluminum heads on an old iron engine unless you are planning to use it for serious racing, where every pound matters and every extra bit of power that can be squeezed out of an engine counts. Otherwise, the original iron heads rebuilt (and maybe with the exhaust side ported) are plenty good enough for a street T-bird.

Buy either way, the process of reinstalling the heads is similar. If you stick with rebuilding the factory iron heads, there's a bunch of places where you can find specific instructions for reinstalling them (includng the factory shop manual). If you go with new heads from Edelbrock or someone else, they will come with specific installation instructions -- which you have to follow to keep your warranty good.

bughunter · Post by **bughunter** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:56 pm

Go to the FE forum, lots of info. I'm putting edel heads on this year. I currently have the performer rpm manifold, 750dp, headers, 3.7 rear.
http://www.network54.com

ValveTubeHead · Post by **ValveTubeHead** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:45 pm

Lighten and lower cg where it counts is a no brainier. Ebrock is known for spotty qc/qa...my engine builder insisted his guy prep valves with my comp cams cam/spring kit, sent first set of bare heads back to edelbrock with bad valve seat. If you're going this direction, don't skimp on power train and gear selection. Heavy heavy car...I went with vac secondary 650cfm carb.

timewarped1972 · Post by **timewarped1972** » Fri Mar 09, 2012 1:36 am

bughunter wrote:Go to the FE forum, lots of info. I'm putting edel heads on this year. I currently have the performer rpm manifold, 750dp, headers, 3.7 rear.
http://www.network54.com

i'm curious how it runs with what you have now and how well did the gears help it get out of the hole?

wisconsinjimmy · Post by **wisconsinjimmy** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:36 pm

I just put my engine back together with the cast Iron heads as I do not trust aluminum with iron (different rates of expansion) I did have the block bored to .060 and put the 390 crank back in and the rods but opted for the 360 pistons and I am darn near at deck height. I am going to use a bore scope to check the valves as it will be close, guessing about 10:1 compression. Also have a light grind Lunati cam which gives her a little thump. Next will be to filler up with oil and using the drill pre oil the engine. One other thing is this is a very heavy car and trying to make a muscle car out of it is I beleive futility but hey each to there own and have fun.

VicRattlehead · Post by **VicRattlehead** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:43 pm

wisconsinjimmy wrote:I just put my engine back together with the cast Iron heads as I do not trust aluminum with iron (different rates of expansion) I did have the block bored to .060 and put the 390 crank back in and the rods but opted for the 360 pistons and I am darn near at deck height. I am going to use a bore scope to check the valves as it will be close, guessing about 10:1 compression. Also have a light grind Lunati cam which gives her a little thump. Next will be to filler up with oil and using the drill pre oil the engine. One other thing is this is a very heavy car and trying to make a muscle car out of it is I beleive futility but hey each to there own and have fun.

There are Millions of cars out there with alum heads on iron blocks MILLIONS.

After porting the stock boat anchors and spending money on valve jobs and most likely new valve train parts, youll do hardened seats too, and you'll still have boat anchors on there. Run the edelebrock stuff paint blue to match and be done with it. If you want pm me the part number and I can get you a price on them, can meet and beat lots of those online catalog places.