Well after the hubs were milled. It was just a mater of putting everything together. Sorry guys I didn't get pics of the brackets going together. That would have probably helped, but I was to busy.
And yes I painted the callipers. I could not leave well enough alone.
Its on the ground. I found a set of Toyota highlander wheels for 2008 and newer that worked perfect for rollers in the shop. A set of used 235-45-17 tires for cheep. The ride height is just right.
Thanks guys. Looked into de-arching the leafs and was met with all kinds of resistance. Everything from purists, not wanting to help because I was changing a classic, to liability issues. I think I have put this off long enough. I have been thinking about going air-over 4-link. Oh and I looked at the watts link as well, but it just seems to be a band-aid to the problem.
If your aim is to locate the rear axle and you'll be pushing the car hard around corners a 4 link may not be the best choice depending on what style you use. If you're using a triangulated 4 link or a 3 link like the one Lateral Dynamics makes then you should be good as this design doesn't introduce much bind at full extension whereas a straight drag style 4 link will. Again, I'm talking carving corners here. If you intend on drag racing the car then the straight 4 should work fine for you.
The Watts link is probably the best way to keep your rear axle located. The problem is it's not very exhaust friendly much like a torque arm but if you're going mid dump on the exhaust then you're golden.
In the proses of getting the air-ride put together, I almost forgot to put in the new bump stops. I welded up some steel plate to the top of the old brackets, drilled a hole in the center and volia. On a side note Air Ride Tech has crappy instructions.
Dusty wrote:Down two leafs (the primary and helper)
Before
After
I figure I picked up about four and a half inches.[/b]
When you look at how thick that remaining leaf is you'll realise that under hard acceleration you'll get horrendous axle-tramp and spring wind-up and very likely break the spring.
Then what's going to keep that end of your rear-end parrallel to your intended direction of travel?
You need something more sturdy than just one leaf to control the axle.
Kiwi Thunderbirder
'66 Town Landau
'55 F100
'37 Ford coupe
'64 Anglia
'05 Ultraglide Classic
The cross member in progress. I am trying to make a hybrid as has been done before, but in this case it will be a little healthier. I am using heavy wall inch and a half. I think I have the profile correct. We will see if I can get it to wrap around the C-6. It will hang down lower than stock about an inch. I don't think it will be a problem. Once I have it all set-up I will cut off the e-brake pivot and tack it on the back side.
Last edited by Dusty on Mon Oct 10, 2011 7:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
