Lowering

Steverino · Post by **Steverino** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 7:37 pm

If you are going with the blocks don?t forget to compensate for the length of your shocks.

Thanks, but not sure exactly what you mean... With blocks, the shocks stay at stock length & the axle just moves "up". Maybe I'm missing something, though.

Beach Bum · Post by **Beach Bum** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:38 pm

Y'know, I've always wondered about one aspect of lowering (or raising for that matter)... including using blocks to "move the axle up". I've seen a lot of articles that talk about how critical the angle of the drive shaft is from the tailshaft of the transmission to the yoke on the rear end. Clearly most mods to significantly lower or raise are going to change that drive shaft angle. Or does that kind of critical drive shaft angle only apply more recent-era rear wheel drive cars?

Steverino · Post by **Steverino** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:49 pm

I'm still learning about this stuff, but my impression is that it comes into play in relation to the amount of lift or drop - that is, the more extreme you go, the more important it is. They do offer tapered blocks so that you can change your pinion angle at the same time you are raising/lowering the vehicle.

What I don't know is how critical it is at relatively low changes (like my 1.5" drop). I'm going on the assumption that it won't be significant...

Steverino · Post by **Steverino** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 5:01 pm

Thought I'd keep this lowering thread going... I ended up going with a 1.5" drop in the rear. Because the locating pins on the springs are a whoppin' 1.5" in diameter, I couldn't find off-the-shelf blocks that would work. I ended up buying some 1.5" x 2.5" x 12" aluminum bar stock and 1.5" dia. aluminum rod from McMaster Carr. Found a friendly local machinist who cut the bar into two 5" lengths and then bored them each for the 1.5" rod, all for $20! I cut two pieces of the rod & JB Welded them into the blocks. I figure that the JB should be fine since they aren't under any stress in particular once the U-bolts are tight. Photos just for fun:

Before the rear drop (but after the 2" lower front springs):

After the rear drop. Sorry, no outdoor shots today...

Now I have to get my exhaust pipes redone - I can't install my new rear swaybar 'cause it hits one of the pipes that isn't arched enough over the rear axle. They say one thing leads to another...

Anyway, hope this helps someone looking to use blocks in the future.

scumdog · Post by **scumdog** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 3:10 am

The only comment I would make is that when using lowering blocks I always usematerial the same width as the spring it is going to be sitting on - and re-mount the rubber pad on top of the block..

I have seen narrower lowering blocks rotate slightly (i.e. protrude each side of the spring at an angle).

Whether that causes any problems down the line I don't know - but I like the idea that the spring U-bolts are almost touching the lowering block and prevent any chance of the above event happening.

My 2-cents

BTW: THAT is a really nice 'bird, well done!

Steverino · Post by **Steverino** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:08 am

Thanks for the compliments!

I get what you mean about the rotation. I made the blocks the same width as the actual leaf springs, but for some reason I didn't think about the width of the "spring pack" which is obviously wider. One solution (at this point) would be to add shims between the U-bolts and the block on either side to take up the gap.

As far as the rubber pad goes, the spring pack is assembled with some sort of rubber inside it, but there was no rubber between the spring pack and the rear axle pad. I don't think my axle's ever been out of the car, based on evidence reported elsewhere (like factory build sheet stuffed in the axle pad bracket)... I'll check my manuals - maybe I need a part...

I do plan to keep an eye on the whole assembly on a regular basis. This car doesn't see a lot of miles as it's not my daily driver, so it may take a while for any problems to show themselves...

Beach Bum · Post by **Beach Bum** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 3:18 pm

It loookin' goood... A nice solution to make your own blocks. Not sure about using the JB Weld to hold in the pins. There will be up and down impact vibrations transmitted to the block from the springs constantly reacting to the changing road surface -- and as the car turns there will even be some sideways stress I think. If you ever have to remove them for some reason, I would go back to the machine shop and have them tap a threaded hole from one side of the block into the pin itself, then crank in a hefty set-screw to make sure the pin stays tight in the block. But none of that may amount to enough to cause a problem, so long as you plan to keep an eye on it.

Ian M Greer · Post by **Ian M Greer** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 4:56 pm

Steve that is a very straight looking Landau , is that the original colour and what colour interior compliments it . Ian

Steverino · Post by **Steverino** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:12 pm

J.R. - thanks for the idea. Another friend suggested a roll pin through block & dowel. Someone else suggested having the dowels tack welded in place. I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on it.

I do plan to take the rear end out at some point for a rebuild / reseal, and will go through & put in new spring bushings, etc at that time. Will probably reassess the blocks then (if nothing's failed) & perhaps do a modification.

Ian - thanks for the compliments! Yes it is the original (silver mink) color, though not the original paint. Interior is the same. (Seats and lower door panels are silver mink, door panel caps and dash are darker blue - don't have the name offhand).