I'm getting ready to replace the master cylinder and brake booster in my '65. While it seems straight forward, are there any hints, cautions, etc. that you might pass along to me before I start?
Lee
Brake Booster Install
Moderator: redstangbob
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Lee Craner
- Posts: 116
- Joined: Sat May 04, 2019 11:42 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Brake Booster Install
Lee
1965 Red Thunderbird Convertible
1973 Intermeccanica Squire SS-100
1956 Continental Mark II
1965 Red Thunderbird Convertible
1973 Intermeccanica Squire SS-100
1956 Continental Mark II
Re: Brake Booster Install
Done mine, was really easy and straightforward :) remember to bleed the system correctly after :)
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redthundervert64
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 11:19 pm
Re: Brake Booster Install
I just completed this job two weeks ago so the memories (and scars 
) are still fresh! My apologies if any or all of this is obvious. I have a 64 MY year but hopefully everything (except the booster) is the same.
I removed the seat and the lower dash panel to be able to get at everything under the dash. It wasn't clear to me from looking at the manuals that the panel section covering the ignition switch is attached to the kick panel on the console beside the accelerator pedal (the "console panel radio access") so these must be removed together.
The booster push rod link has to be disconnected from the pin on the brake pedal assembly. There's a stiff C-washer that has to be removed and it would be good to have the correct-sized snap ring pliers to do this (I believe the size of the washer is 9/16"). I didn't have the right size but I was able to pry the washer off using a screw driver. There should be two nylon bushings on the push rod link pin but mine only had one and it was quite worn. So far I haven't been able to find replacements (anyone know where I can get these?) While everything is disconnected and loose it's a good time to lubricate the pedal parts (also lubricate the booster bracket pivots and linkages once the booster is out).
The four booster bracket retaining nuts are hard to get at and I found it difficult to get a deep socket and ratchet on them but I was able to remove them with a box-end wrench.
I was in touch with my trusted mechanic (my "consultant") during this work and he highly recommended applying silicone (dielectric) grease to all external parts of the booster where rubber contacts metal (including the MC spacer and booster check valve). The bellows lip at the front of the booster can be rolled back to get the grease on the underside between the bellows and the booster housing. My MC push rod was loosely attached inside the booster and I removed this and applied the grease to the guide hole inside the booster too.
With the MC and booster out of the car it should be relatively easy to adjust the MC push rod length. I don't have a push rod length measurement tool and I found that my digital caliper depth gauge measurements were "spongey" and inconsistent against the nylon part of the MC spacer so I made a simple retaining plate out of sheet metal which held everything together tightly. I've attached a picture below. This came in very handy because I discovered a "math error" and had to re-measure again with the booster in the car. Since my push rod wants to flop down when the booster is in the car the plate held it in place nicely. Of course, you have to add the retaining plate thickness to the push rod measurement to get the actual length.
Hope this helps - good luck!
) are still fresh! My apologies if any or all of this is obvious. I have a 64 MY year but hopefully everything (except the booster) is the same.I removed the seat and the lower dash panel to be able to get at everything under the dash. It wasn't clear to me from looking at the manuals that the panel section covering the ignition switch is attached to the kick panel on the console beside the accelerator pedal (the "console panel radio access") so these must be removed together.
The booster push rod link has to be disconnected from the pin on the brake pedal assembly. There's a stiff C-washer that has to be removed and it would be good to have the correct-sized snap ring pliers to do this (I believe the size of the washer is 9/16"). I didn't have the right size but I was able to pry the washer off using a screw driver. There should be two nylon bushings on the push rod link pin but mine only had one and it was quite worn. So far I haven't been able to find replacements (anyone know where I can get these?) While everything is disconnected and loose it's a good time to lubricate the pedal parts (also lubricate the booster bracket pivots and linkages once the booster is out).
The four booster bracket retaining nuts are hard to get at and I found it difficult to get a deep socket and ratchet on them but I was able to remove them with a box-end wrench.
I was in touch with my trusted mechanic (my "consultant") during this work and he highly recommended applying silicone (dielectric) grease to all external parts of the booster where rubber contacts metal (including the MC spacer and booster check valve). The bellows lip at the front of the booster can be rolled back to get the grease on the underside between the bellows and the booster housing. My MC push rod was loosely attached inside the booster and I removed this and applied the grease to the guide hole inside the booster too.
With the MC and booster out of the car it should be relatively easy to adjust the MC push rod length. I don't have a push rod length measurement tool and I found that my digital caliper depth gauge measurements were "spongey" and inconsistent against the nylon part of the MC spacer so I made a simple retaining plate out of sheet metal which held everything together tightly. I've attached a picture below. This came in very handy because I discovered a "math error" and had to re-measure again with the booster in the car. Since my push rod wants to flop down when the booster is in the car the plate held it in place nicely. Of course, you have to add the retaining plate thickness to the push rod measurement to get the actual length.
Hope this helps - good luck!
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