List of all rubber brake hoses please

[ScreaminJohnny]

Hello yall. Before you say anything, I’m away from home ordering parts so I can get to work over summer, so I’m unable to actually look under the car or look at my book.

Are there just the normal 2 front, 2 rear break hoses on these cars? I only ask because rock auto says there are “fronts” , “rears”, “rear centers” , and “front hose to combination valve.”

Car has been off the road close to 20 years. I test drove it once, runs good, but I’m not going anywhere far until I replace all wheel cylinders, rubber brake hoses, and give it new brake fluid. And I also want to replace tires. It has bias plys on it.

Any insight would be appreciated.

[Rusty57]

Unless your car has been modified these Baby Birds have 4 brake hose. There are 2 front hoses, one hose from the chassis to the rear axle, and one hose either directly from the master cylinder or the booster to the connector on the chassis.

[ScreaminJohnny]

Thanks. So I assume according to Rock Auto’s names I need 2 front, one “rear” or “rear center” as those hoses look identical, and one “front hose to combination valve”. Sound right? I’ll attach a picture for the heck of it. I appreciate your help.

[ScreaminJohnny]

Couple other questions while I’m here. Do the brake hoses need new copper crush washers?

Also I’ve read that 205/75/15 are a good replacement tire size in place of bias plys. Where is a good budget white wall I can get?

[ward 57]

Can't help with the washers as I had my shop install the hoses that I supplied.
As far as the tires, Buy some halfway decent ones in your size Whitewall or not and order some wide white inserts/overlays from portawallshop.com. and have them install with your new tires. They look great and are not expensive.

[ScreaminJohnny]

Thank you for that website. Seems great, do they just stick on the side of the tires? Simple install I can do myself? Those seem like a great idea.

What size would I get for 205/75/15? I’m assuming the “15x3” is for 15” rims and 3” wide? Or which ones would I get for my tire size?

[ward 57]

They mount between the bead of the tire and the wheel for a semi permanent install. They are rubber and flex with the tire and fit tight, A tire shop will need to do it. I went with the 2" on my 14" wheels and look good without going overboard. Originals were 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" but I'm not sure. I'd tape a 3X5 index card onto the current tire and see what you think then maybe cut another one down to 2" and compare.

[Rusty57]

I suggest that you do some searches on this forum about tires and then start a new post with questions. The subject of tires is almost like a dead horse we bring out of the stable about once a month and try to ride it.

With respect to the brake hoses, what you are experiencing is part of my “love/hate” relationship with Rock Auto. I “love” the pricing value they offer. I “hate” trying to understand their application data.

I agree that “Front” is “Front” and you need 2 of those. Those hoses require a copper washer where they attach to the brake cylinder.

I agree that “Rear” and “ Rear Center” are the same part application description. That hose is actually to the left of center on the car. There is a copper washer where it attaches to the tee block that is mount on the rear axle.

I cannot offer a recommendation on the “Front Hose to Combination Valve”. The TBird suppliers list a hose for power brake cars and a steel line for manual brake cars. The hose on our ‘57 (power brakes) has flared fittings on both ends. One end screws into a banjo block that uses 2 copper washers to seal to the brake booster outlet.

[ward 57]

I suggest that you do some searches on this forum about tires and then start a new post with questions. The subject of tires is almost like a dead horse we bring out of the stable about once a month and try to ride it.

With respect to the brake hoses, what you are experiencing is part of my “love/hate” relationship with Rock Auto. I “love” the pricing value they offer. I “hate” trying to understand their application data.

I agree that “Front” is “Front” and you need 2 of those. Those hoses require a copper washer where they attach to the brake cylinder.

I agree that “Rear” and “ Rear Center” are the same part application description. That hose is actually to the left of center on the car. There is a copper washer where it attaches to the tee block that is mount on the rear axle.

I cannot offer a recommendation on the “Front Hose to Combination Valve”. The TBird suppliers list a hose for power brake cars and a steel line for manual brake cars. The hose on our ‘57 (power brakes) has flared fittings on both ends. One end screws into a banjo block that uses 2 copper washers to seal to the brake booster outlet.

I'll second the rock auto comment and on the tires.

[ScreaminJohnny]

Thank you all for your help. I ordered the fronts, rear center, and the odd front hose to combination valve. I will probably go to a hardware store for the copper washers. Can’t wait to get this bird on the road.

[Rusty57]

Our local NAPA store has a good selection of copper washers. I typically buy the packs of 5 or 10 so I always have spares if I have to take something apart.

Sometimes a brake hose assembly will include the washer. The “rule of thumb” for Rock Auto is that whatever is in the picture of the part is what you get. For your ‘55 none of the hoses show a washer.

Rock Auto does have copper washers but you have to know the size. At one time they did list the washers with the hoses section. It made things easy to order all the parts you needed.

[ScreaminJohnny]

Will do, thanks for the info

[Jimntempe]

I've seen claims that if you use a propane torch to heat the copper washer and then drop it in water you will resoften it and make it reuseable. I've seen it done and it seemed to work.

[Rusty57]

You are correct that you can anneal copper by heating it. It will soften regardless of cooling rate. You are reversing the work hardening that occurred due to mechanical loading.

One popular method is to lay the washer on an electric stove burner and let the washer turn red. Turn the bruner off and let everything cool. If you use a torch you can overheat the copper. One advantage of cooling in water is that it reduces the oxidation on the surface. Less cleaning is required.

[RossL]

When I replaced all of my hoses I used new brass washers. I cut the old ones in half and the rear hose in the center was so swollen the opening looked like a pin hole