It looks like the dash is coming out......

[289ace]

A couple of weeks ago I ask about installing a new dash pad while leaving the dash in the car. After crawling around under the dash I've decided there is enough things that need to be done that I should remove the dash and take care of a multitude of things.

Since I am removing the dash, this brings up some more questions for the brain trust-
The underhood wiring is very brittle, but under the dash the wire is still pliable. Has anyone used the under hood "repair" loom? I'm not sure how it interfaces to the existing under dash part of the wiring. I am leaning towards a whole new underhood/dash harness, but thought I should educate myself on the repair loom. Some of the manuals show a junction block under the dash which might be a possible connection point, but so far I can't find one. Maybe it isn't on a '57?

The gauges could all use some freshening, especially the needles, but so far I haven't found any paint from the usual vendors. Does anyone have a source for the orange paint?

My clock is currently non-op. I was going to send it out to Clockworks for a quartz conversion but I've read where there seems to be a problem with the recent batches converted so I am considering other options. I did read the recent thread here, but what other options are out there?

While I have the cables disconnected I'm thinking about replacing the vacuum control heater valve with the Mechanical heater control valve offered by Casco. Does anyone have any long term experience with the mechanical retro fitted valves?

What else should I be considering doing while I have the dash out?

TIA for any help/insight.

[Joe Johnston]

Do you have the Electrical Manual and the Trim and Sealer Manual? Lots of drawings and info to help you.

While the dash is out, paint the underside white. It makes things a lot easier to see when you have to crawl under the dash again.

[55blacktie]

I've done considerable under/behind the dash of my 55 without removing it. However, having removed the steering column, seat, and soft top provided more space. Lighting was less than ideal. Thinking that the factory red primer on the inside/back of the dash was surface rust, I painted it black (my car is Raven Black). I wish I had left it alone. Painting it white might help with visibility (others have done it), and probably no one but you will see it or know it isn't the correct color, but I wouldn't do it.

[Jimntempe]

I've done considerable under/behind the dash of my 55 without removing it. However, having removed the steering column, seat, and soft top provided more space. Lighting was less than ideal. Thinking that the factory red primer on the inside/back of the dash was surface rust, I painted it black (my car is Raven Black). I wish I had left it alone. Painting it white might help with visibility (others have done it), and probably no one but you will see it or know it isn't the correct color, but I wouldn't do it.

Do you have a forehead headlamp? Mine was a lifesaver last time I was behind the dash to RR the speedometer. Anymore I use it for almost all car repairs. If you haven't tried one, give it a try. Get a halfway decent one though. The first ones I tried a few years ago weren't really bright enough and the batteries didn't last long enough.

[55blacktie]

Uncomfortable & hard to keep on my head.

[ward 57]

I have a Craftsman rechargeable LED work light, cylinder in shape that is very bright and works great. Has a hook and magnet to put almost anywhere.

[paul2748]

If your doing a lot of work under the dash, pull the seat out for a lot more room to work.

My personal view on the wires is replace everything. The less connections the better. The only junctions under the dash that I remember is the one for the steering column, but I have a 56 and 57 may be different.

Try a hobby shop for the needle paint.

I had William's in Arkansas do two quartz conversions for me (my 56 Bird and 54 Ford) and have not had a problems with them. These were done some 15 or 20 years ago though. If you send it out, raise this issue with the vendor and see what they say before sending it out.

I have the CASCO heater control conversion. I did have to replace the valve once but that's the only problem I have had with it in about 9 or 10 years.

While underneath the dash, get the mechanical brake light switch from CASCO.

And I agree with painting the underside of the dash white. Much better to see under there.

[ron56]

I bought the under the hood wire harness and spiced the wires to under dash wires. It was much cheaper at the time. I would agree fewer spices the better, but I was careful and haven't had any problems. I used butt spices and then covered the spice with the heat shrink with the glue inside. My kit came with the large power wires (two I think) so all the spices were with the smaller gage wire. Also in my mind there is no question, paint the underside of the dash white.
I also used the manual heater valve and it works fine.

[289ace]

Thanks all, great comments so far. My plan is to remove the seat and steering column, but thought if the soft top was down, I wouldn't need to complete remove it. I'll reassess that this weekend.

Other responses are as follows-
Joe, I do have the manuals, but have found them lacking much of the time especially the trim and sealer manual. Most of the writing is completely illegible as I think they have made copies of copies too many times. I don't remember where I bought them, but will make them work as is.

55Blackbird,
at 6'2" 250, fitting under the dash is tough especially since I don't really bend any more.

Jimintempe,
I have a headlamp I use for night time Mtn Biking and will break it out. Thanks for the idea.

Ward 57, I have a very bright drop light I'll try if needed. It just always seems its in the wrong place and tough to reach.

Paul 2748,
Thank You for the detailed response. Your post has some great info and after reading Ron56's post about needing to splice the engine harness, I'll be placing the full harness on order as I prefer not to splice. A quick question on the valve, when it failed did it leak or was the coolant kept internal to the system? Just wondering about being stranded although carrying a small hose connector and a couple of hose clamps would probably have one back on the road.

Ron56,
Thank you for the information, its just what I was looking for.

[55blacktie]

I use an LED light (not cordless); it's bright enough, but it does get in the way when moving around (there isn't a lot of space). I've even put a mini flashlight in my mouth on occasion when both hands were full. I've yet to swallow it.

[paul2748]

The heater valve developed a leak, that is why I had to replace it. It is (or was at the time) something that is available not only from CASCO but can be found on ebay and possibly amazon. I did find the exact replacement on ebay (I think) as a spare since I bought the replacement on the car now from CASCO.

By the way, the vendor that did the quartz clock conversions is Williamson's

Paul 2748,
Thank You for the detailed response. Your post has some great info and after reading Ron56's post about needing to splice the engine harness, I'll be placing the full harness on order as I prefer not to splice. A quick question on the valve, when it failed did it leak or was the coolant kept internal to the system? Just wondering about being stranded although carrying a small hose connector and a couple of hose clamps would probably have one back on the road.

Ron56,
Thank you for the information, its just what I was looking for.

[289ace]

The dash is out and on the bench now and I am moving to the clean up and repair phase before I get to fitting the new pad. I found some dash removal instructions on the web that were excellent for helping make sure I didn't miss anything. The removal went very smoothly and it took me 7-8 hrs over 3 days to get it disconnected and on the bench.

So far I have run into these things that I could use some help with if anyone has any insight-

Clock-
It is dead and I would like to try and clean and oil it to see if it will come back to life but can't get the bottom knob off. Is it a slip on and I just need to pull harder, or is there some trick to its removal? If it doesn't come to life I'll probably send it out for a repair or conversion.

Tach-
Before removal, the tach was very noisy. I opened it up and was surprised at how simple it is. I was expecting gears, but it looks like it is a couple of magnets that impart force to a tube the needle is attached to. I am not seeing anything that would make the noise so I am guessing it is the cable. I'll pull the cable today, but is there anything in the tach that could be making noise? If so I'll do a closer inspection.

Driver's side vent cable-
This cable was frozen and I was able to free it up with some PB Blaster, but it is still very gritty. I would like to disassemble it and clean the cable and sheath but can't see how the handle is removed so the cable can be pulled out. Is this a non serviceable part that is replace only? I would like to use the original if possible.

On a final note, does anyone make an ~20"x16" laminated schematic? When I start putting the new harness in it would be nice to have a large schematic I could hang above my workbench to refer to. I haven't found one at the vendors I have checked and if needed, will try to make a copy of what is in the manual and have staples/office max laminate it. However, the quality of what I have is marginal and I think blowing it will not yield an easy to read schematic.

TIA for any help.

[swatson999]

I have this one

https://classiccarwiring.com/products/1 ... yyEALw_wcB

[289ace]

I have this one

https://classiccarwiring.com/products/1 ... yyEALw_wcB

Thanks! I hadn't thought about checking with them.

[Rusty57]

The driver’s air vent cable was frozen on our ‘57. I did remove it to get it operating smoothly. The only tricky part is getting the retainer loose on the under-dash side of the knob. I hung it vertically with the knob up and let it soak with rust penetrant for a few days. Then I flushed it with brake cleaner and let it dry overnight. I used 3-in-1 oil to lightly lubricate the cable.

HINT: Remember to put the retainer on the cable right after you slide it back into the dash. Then slide the cable on through to the firewall. Don’t ask how I know that trick!

Our tach became noisy a few months after I lubricated the cable so I knew it was not the cable. I did remove the tach to clean and oil it.

The spinning magnets create a magnetic field which causes the needle to deflect. The faster the magnets spin the more the needle deflects. The bearings for the shaft with the spinning magnets need to be cleaned and lubricated. As a side note, the speedometer works the same way with rotating magnets. It is the odometer which is gear driven.

I used canned air to clean the inside of the tach mechanism. I then used a Q-tip soaked in brake cleaner to saturate the bearings. I let that soak through a few cycles and then dry overnight. I used a pen oiler for fishing reels to apply a few drops of light oil to each bearing. The tach needle is very steady at speed and only fluctuates a little at idle right after starting the engine. After it has run a while the needle is steady at idle.

Our clock is not connected electrically to prevent battery drain so I do not know if it works. My thinking is that almost any jewelry/watch shop could clean and oil it as a first step to checking if it operates. I might even try it myself using the same technique that I used on the tach.