I'm finally ready to tackle my new dash and I am looking for any tips from the brain trust to help it go smoothly. Colored dash pads are not available from any sources so I will end up dyeing/painting a black pad that was supposed to made on original Ford tooling. We hashed the dyeing or painting in an earlier thread so we there is no need to go over that, but the install is something new to me. At this point I plan to leave the dash in the car and install the pad that way. From what I have read, I need to remove the steering wheel, chrome strip on the bottom of the windshield, windshield, interior light, speaker grill, instrument cluster chrome strip, and glove box button. I will have the windshield removed by a glass shop and have them hold it until I get the dash pad installed, and will then have them come back to install it after everything else is done.
Questions are-
Do the metal strips along the dash front need to be removed?
How much fitting will the pad require? I plan to do the fitting before doing the dyeing so handling of the dash after dyeing will be minimized.
Are there any tips for aligning the speaker/light/glove box holes?
Glue or no glue?
Any other things I should be considering?
TIA for any help.
Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
Moderator: Joe Johnston
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
I had a body shop replace mine many years ago. But what from I've read, removing all the trim will be required but not the instrument cluster but just the chrome trim.
To get to the front end where the real anchor is, the dash will have to be detached if the windshield is still in place. How to fit it after that is beyond my expertise.
To get to the front end where the real anchor is, the dash will have to be detached if the windshield is still in place. How to fit it after that is beyond my expertise.
VTCI # 13223
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
I saved this from the "internet". How someone else did it.
I have owned my 1957 Tbird for 60 years. I have been a mechanic for 60 years. I replaced my dash pad 40 years ago. I had to dye a blue one black. It still looks very good. It is starting to peel a very little bit in the grooves. I just did another 1957. This one came already black but it is a dull finish not shiny. I installed it without removing dashboard or the windshield. The big roadblock was removing the small screws in the front edge of the pad. I got very lucky. I did mine with a very very small Phillips screw driver 40 years ago. I could not find that screw driver or a replacement for it. I got lucky and found a replacement tool from Mac Tool that made the removal and reinstallation of those screws very easy without the windshield being removed. That tool comes as a set that costs $150.00. The way to do it as follows. Remove the screws from the front edge of the dash pad. Then with a white marker mark the position of the screw holes on the OUTSIDE of the windshield. Then remove speaker grill and chrome moldings, courtesy light assembly and remove old dash pad. Clean up old padding stuck to dash panel. Lay a big sheet on floor of car to catch some of the debris so it doesn’t get into carpet. The next step is to install new pad and line the holes for the speaker grill mounting studs. Install speaker grill to hold pad in place. Before you do this you have to add glue to the medal dash panel if you want to glue it in place. I chose not to glue it in place. I got my pad from Casco and the first was very, very good. After the pad is in place held by the speaker grill, pack the sides of the panel that run parallel to the windshield with a screw driver. The pad I got fit very nicely. Now for the very tricky part made very easy with tool I bought from Mac Tool. Push the front edges of the pad flush with dash panel. Now get a very small pick tool that has a 90 degree bend on the end of it. You use that pick tool to make the holes to reinstall the metal retaining strip on the front edge of pad material. Using the white chalk marks you made on the windshield before removing the screws and that little pick tool , punch a hole in the material to start the first screw. You only have make one punch hole in each strip. The rest will line up after you install the first screw. Now get that tool from Mac and select a short Phillips head screw driver attachment attach it to the ratchet tool. The bit fits rather snugly into the ratchet so it won’t fall out. It is a good idea to plug up windshield defroster slots in front of where the screws go in case a screw falls out of ratchet. Put 1 screw into end of the steel retaining strip and screw it in. Then align metal strip up with the remaining holes with the pick tool and install the other screws. This is how I did it. The Mac tool number is SBR39SB.
You also need a small straight pick tool to line up the metal strip that goes on the opening where gauges are mounted. Also when you install the radio speaker panel you made need to adjust installation height of the panel to match the pad height for a smooth finish. Use flat washers to do this. Also the round barrels that go under speaker grill are different heights for front and rear bolts. Last tip cut off excess material around gauge cluster as the very last step.
I have owned my 1957 Tbird for 60 years. I have been a mechanic for 60 years. I replaced my dash pad 40 years ago. I had to dye a blue one black. It still looks very good. It is starting to peel a very little bit in the grooves. I just did another 1957. This one came already black but it is a dull finish not shiny. I installed it without removing dashboard or the windshield. The big roadblock was removing the small screws in the front edge of the pad. I got very lucky. I did mine with a very very small Phillips screw driver 40 years ago. I could not find that screw driver or a replacement for it. I got lucky and found a replacement tool from Mac Tool that made the removal and reinstallation of those screws very easy without the windshield being removed. That tool comes as a set that costs $150.00. The way to do it as follows. Remove the screws from the front edge of the dash pad. Then with a white marker mark the position of the screw holes on the OUTSIDE of the windshield. Then remove speaker grill and chrome moldings, courtesy light assembly and remove old dash pad. Clean up old padding stuck to dash panel. Lay a big sheet on floor of car to catch some of the debris so it doesn’t get into carpet. The next step is to install new pad and line the holes for the speaker grill mounting studs. Install speaker grill to hold pad in place. Before you do this you have to add glue to the medal dash panel if you want to glue it in place. I chose not to glue it in place. I got my pad from Casco and the first was very, very good. After the pad is in place held by the speaker grill, pack the sides of the panel that run parallel to the windshield with a screw driver. The pad I got fit very nicely. Now for the very tricky part made very easy with tool I bought from Mac Tool. Push the front edges of the pad flush with dash panel. Now get a very small pick tool that has a 90 degree bend on the end of it. You use that pick tool to make the holes to reinstall the metal retaining strip on the front edge of pad material. Using the white chalk marks you made on the windshield before removing the screws and that little pick tool , punch a hole in the material to start the first screw. You only have make one punch hole in each strip. The rest will line up after you install the first screw. Now get that tool from Mac and select a short Phillips head screw driver attachment attach it to the ratchet tool. The bit fits rather snugly into the ratchet so it won’t fall out. It is a good idea to plug up windshield defroster slots in front of where the screws go in case a screw falls out of ratchet. Put 1 screw into end of the steel retaining strip and screw it in. Then align metal strip up with the remaining holes with the pick tool and install the other screws. This is how I did it. The Mac tool number is SBR39SB.
You also need a small straight pick tool to line up the metal strip that goes on the opening where gauges are mounted. Also when you install the radio speaker panel you made need to adjust installation height of the panel to match the pad height for a smooth finish. Use flat washers to do this. Also the round barrels that go under speaker grill are different heights for front and rear bolts. Last tip cut off excess material around gauge cluster as the very last step.
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
Thanks Jim, There is a lot of good info in that write up especially the info on the speaker grill studs. I doubt I would noticed a difference in height of them. Since I'll have the windshield out (the weatherstripping needs to be replaced anyway) I'm hoping it will go smoothly, but my big concern is the actual fit up. While the pad is supposed to be made from original Ford tooling, I have read messages on a few installs that say a fair amount of "shaving" is still needed on the foam to make it fit properly.
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
If your pad is anything like the one I used (I hope not) there is an incredible amount of trimming/sanding/blending/cursing that will be required to Make the dash pad work and look good. I had the dash out of the car and it was still bad. Areas where the foam should have feathered out to nothing leaving only vinyl, but didn't, included:
Stainless strip at instrument cluster, had 1/8"-3/16" foam entire length; entire engine turned aluminum strip from left to right, ~1/8" foam left on; Glove box, glove box button & map light 1/8" to 1/4" foam remaining; bottom & top of doglegs varied but up to 1/4" foam still on. It took multiple trial fittings to get everything to fit nicely but looks very good and I am happy now that it's over.
Questions are-
Do the metal strips along the dash front need to be removed? If these are the dash cover hold down strips then yes, remove then replace.
How much fitting will the pad require? See above. I plan to do the fitting before doing the dyeing so handling of the dash after dyeing will be minimized.
Are there any tips for aligning the speaker/light/glove box holes? Speaker should be easy as you will be able to cutout the speaker shape from the top, the rest should line up fairly well if you have trimmed properly.
Glue or no glue? IMO I don't see how you could not use any glue, especially at the top of the turned alum. strip all the way across, top of glove box and bottom of doglegs. The turned alum. strip is not strong enough to resist any warpage the dash top may give you. I can't image that along the top of the glove box would look very good very long w/o glue. Not sure what other option is available along the bottom of the doglegs to give you a finished look.
Any other things I should be considering? Removing DASH!
Stainless strip at instrument cluster, had 1/8"-3/16" foam entire length; entire engine turned aluminum strip from left to right, ~1/8" foam left on; Glove box, glove box button & map light 1/8" to 1/4" foam remaining; bottom & top of doglegs varied but up to 1/4" foam still on. It took multiple trial fittings to get everything to fit nicely but looks very good and I am happy now that it's over.
Questions are-
Do the metal strips along the dash front need to be removed? If these are the dash cover hold down strips then yes, remove then replace.
How much fitting will the pad require? See above. I plan to do the fitting before doing the dyeing so handling of the dash after dyeing will be minimized.
Are there any tips for aligning the speaker/light/glove box holes? Speaker should be easy as you will be able to cutout the speaker shape from the top, the rest should line up fairly well if you have trimmed properly.
Glue or no glue? IMO I don't see how you could not use any glue, especially at the top of the turned alum. strip all the way across, top of glove box and bottom of doglegs. The turned alum. strip is not strong enough to resist any warpage the dash top may give you. I can't image that along the top of the glove box would look very good very long w/o glue. Not sure what other option is available along the bottom of the doglegs to give you a finished look.
Any other things I should be considering? Removing DASH!
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
I am 98% sure that you will also have to remove the turned alum. strip full left to right.
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
I can't find it now but I thought I read some feedback from someone who did it who said one of the hardest things to get lined up was the glove box button so they recommended starting there and working out. The whole thing sounds like a bit of work.
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
I can attest to that. I had a shop do mine and everything is great but the glove box button area is a little wonky.
VTCI # 13223
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
Haz567,
Thank you for the insight. After reading your comments I went out and pulled the dash out of the box for inspection. The vinyl strip on the bottom and around the instrument cluster hood were devoid of foam so I am hopeful the fitting will be easier than what you experienced. Based on the length of the vinyl at the bottom I think you are correct about needing to remove the turned pieces to gain access to where the vinyl would go.
As for removing the whole dash, if that is overall easier than trying to fit the pad with the dash in place, I would consider it. However, after reading some on line threads, it seemed like in the long run that might be more work. The other thing in my mind is, that's how complete restorations get started. I'll just take out the dash to make installing the pad easier. Oh look, while I'm here I should replace the wiring harness and the cowl pad and all the cables and go through all the gauges. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but for now I'm trying to get it to a nice driver quality car that I can take anywhere.
Thank you for the insight. After reading your comments I went out and pulled the dash out of the box for inspection. The vinyl strip on the bottom and around the instrument cluster hood were devoid of foam so I am hopeful the fitting will be easier than what you experienced. Based on the length of the vinyl at the bottom I think you are correct about needing to remove the turned pieces to gain access to where the vinyl would go.
As for removing the whole dash, if that is overall easier than trying to fit the pad with the dash in place, I would consider it. However, after reading some on line threads, it seemed like in the long run that might be more work. The other thing in my mind is, that's how complete restorations get started. I'll just take out the dash to make installing the pad easier. Oh look, while I'm here I should replace the wiring harness and the cowl pad and all the cables and go through all the gauges. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but for now I'm trying to get it to a nice driver quality car that I can take anywhere.
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
Jim and Ward,
I had read a thread where the person said the light and glove box button were very difficult to get aligned and to start there. When I just inspected the pad, I found there was a lot of extra vinyl in the push button area so it may difficult to get it seated properly. I think one of the keys to this will be patience and take small bites for any trimming that is needed.
I had read a thread where the person said the light and glove box button were very difficult to get aligned and to start there. When I just inspected the pad, I found there was a lot of extra vinyl in the push button area so it may difficult to get it seated properly. I think one of the keys to this will be patience and take small bites for any trimming that is needed.
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
It's funny. Doing home improvements is the same. Finishing one project and you spot something else that could use attention pointed out by the boss.289ace wrote: ↑Tue Apr 09, 2024 8:59 pm Haz567,
Thank you for the insight. After reading your comments I went out and pulled the dash out of the box for inspection. The vinyl strip on the bottom and around the instrument cluster hood were devoid of foam so I am hopeful the fitting will be easier than what you experienced. Based on the length of the vinyl at the bottom I think you are correct about needing to remove the turned pieces to gain access to where the vinyl would go.
As for removing the whole dash, if that is overall easier than trying to fit the pad with the dash in place, I would consider it. However, after reading some on line threads, it seemed like in the long run that might be more work. The other thing in my mind is, that's how complete restorations get started. I'll just take out the dash to make installing the pad easier. Oh look, while I'm here I should replace the wiring harness and the cowl pad and all the cables and go through all the gauges. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but for now I'm trying to get it to a nice driver quality car that I can take anywhere.
I just saw something on face book on how a wife could keep her husband busy and out of her hair for a couple of hours, was to sprinkle some used oil under is truck.
VTCI # 13223
Re: Time for new dash pad installation- 57 Tbird
The first "classic" I bought to restore was a 64 Tbird. I thought I'd have all the kinks out and other stuff it needed done in a couple months. By the time I was done it was a year later and I had removed nearly the entire interior... every time I took one thing out I could see I should go deeper "while I was there" to do the next thing.