Multiple Questions about oiling issues and oil viscosity.

[ScreaminJohnny]

After doing a lot of reading I’ve slightly scared myself about top end oiling issues with my 292. I did hear some valvetrain noise last time I drove it.

1. How exactly should I look at and clean the valvetrain oil passage?

2. I run Shell Rotella T4 15w-40 Diesel oil in all my engines. My engine builder even told me to run it in my 302 V8 in my 66. I know flat tappet cams love that dinosoar oil. Can I run this in my bird? Does the thicker oil pose a risk for the oiling passages in the head?

3. I want to run a generic spin on oil filter for this car. What is needed to switch this and what part # oil filter can I run?

4. How serious is this top end oiling issue with today’s oil? I couldn’t find any aftermarket kits online to improve the top end oiling. I’ve seen engines with the spacer in the oil pressure sensor port that supply oil through the valve cover bolts. Looks ugly but if it helps I’ll get it. Are there any kits worth getting?

[ward 57]

The shop I use for heavy or really messy work is a Classic Mustang shop and he also has race cars. He recommends Castrol GTX high milage 10w30. I have always used Dino oil and when I pulled the valve covers to do a valve adjustment as they were starting to get a little noisy, there was a little coke buildup on the keeper/locating springs for the rocker arms. I loosened them up as some were a little sticky and not rotating as they should.
He did my last oil change <100 miles ago and they are quieting down nicely.

[55blacktie]

There is no lack of opinions when it comes to which oil to use in Y-blocks. Valve train noise? If you don't hear some noise coming from the solid-lifter engine, check your valve clearance. Generally speaking, I would use a quality 10w-30 or 10w-40 oil. Mineral or synthetic? I know one Y-block expert who says not to use synthetic, but there are owners using it, are happy with it, and will continue to use it. The expert uses Valvoline 10w-40 Conventional Daily Protection Motor Oil. He says it has enough zinc and phosphorus for Y-block engines. Amsoil is recommended by synthetic users, but it's expensive.

[MarkR]

There’s no shortage of information online regarding Y Block engine oil. As Blacktie stated, everybody has their favorite. The same is true for upper end oil passages maintenance. You’ll find that when it comes to Y Blocks, there’s plenty of information.

As far as a spin-on filter goes all the suppliers sell the conversion kit. Easy switch.

A good general information source is Gil’s Garage at the CTCI.org website under Car Tech.

[Rusty57]

I guarantee that there are more opinions about oil for classic cars than there are classic car owners. I do think that 15w-40 is higher viscosity than i would use in any gasoline engine unless that is what the manufacturer recommended. I have read enough that I would also be concerned using an oil only rated for diesel engines (API C & F ratings) in a gasoline engine. The additive packages are quite different.

With respect to a spin-on filter, all the Thunderbird houses sell the adapter. I prefer to use the Motorcraft FL-1A filter.

With respect to top end oiling, from my view that is not a function of current versus older oils. My experience is that older oils with lower levels of detergents contributed to the problem. My observation is that running a high detergent oil will primarily prevent sludge build-up and blockages. It will not clear a blocked passage. NOTE: Valvoline had just introduced a new oil "Restore & Protect". They claim that it will remove deposits in an engine.

I have no experience with issues of upper oiling in these Y-blocks so will not offer any guidance.

[ward 57]

I guarantee that there are more opinions about oil for classic cars than there are classic car owners. I do think that 15w-40 is higher viscosity than i would use in any gasoline engine unless that is what the manufacturer recommended. I have read enough that I would also be concerned using an oil only rated for diesel engines (API C & F ratings) in a gasoline engine. The additive packages are quite different.

With respect to a spin-on filter, all the Thunderbird houses sell the adapter. I prefer to use the Motorcraft FL-1A filter.

With respect to top end oiling, from my view that is not a function of current versus older oils. My experience is that older oils with lower levels of detergents contributed to the problem. My observation is that running a high detergent oil will primarily prevent sludge build-up and blockages. It will not clear a blocked passage. NOTE: Valvoline had just introduced a new oil "Restore & Protect". They claim that it will remove deposits in an engine.

I have no experience with issues of upper oiling in these Y-blocks so will not offer any guidance.

The Casrtol I use is a synthetic blend so best of both worlds and has a lot of ZDDP. Yes if the valves are too tight they will burn.

[ICON 1956]

What this boils down to, Is everyone's opinion uses what oil works for their car.

[ward 57]

What this boils down to, Is everyone's opinion uses what oil works for their car.

Very true. There are as many preferences as there are cars.

[paul2748]

1. There is only so much you can do to clear the passages w/o tearing down the engine. Easiest is to remove the rocker assembly, disassemble and do a through cleaning, including removing the plugs on the rocker shafts and cleaning them out. Clean all oil holes in the rockers.

2. Diesel oil is not recommended because of the detergent package in it. Lots of guys use it though. Personally I don't based on on advice of an experienced engine builder. I use his recommended Valvoline oil, 10-40

3. Changeover kits are available from the TBird parts suppliers. I wouldn't buy one from any one else unless it's from Ford.. Word of caution - most kits use a rubber gasket between the plate and the block and they have caused a lot of trouble. Ford used a composite gasket which you usually can get by buying a canister type filter. Use a quality filter. Wix, NAPA Gold and Ford filter are among the best. Follow the instructions with the kit.

4. If the oil passages in the engine are clear then you will get enough oil topside. These kits were made for engines that had clogged oil passages which happened by the crappy oil back then and by owners who didn't change their oil regularly.

[ScreaminJohnny]

1. There is only so much you can do to clear the passages w/o tearing down the engine. Easiest is to remove the rocker assembly, disassemble and do a through cleaning, including removing the plugs on the rocker shafts and cleaning them out. Clean all oil holes in the rockers.

2. Diesel oil is not recommended because of the detergent package in it. Lots of guys use it though. Personally I don't based on on advice of an experienced engine builder. I use his recommended Valvoline oil, 10-40

3. Changeover kits are available from the TBird parts suppliers. I wouldn't buy one from any one else unless it's from Ford.. Word of caution - most kits use a rubber gasket between the plate and the block and they have caused a lot of trouble. Ford used a composite gasket which you usually can get by buying a canister type filter. Use a quality filter. Wix, NAPA Gold and Ford filter are among the best. Follow the instructions with the kit.

4. If the oil passages in the engine are clear then you will get enough oil topside. These kits were made for engines that had clogged oil passages which happened by the crappy oil back then and by owners who didn't change their oil regularly.

This is great info. Thank you. I’ll drive the car and remove valve covers afterwards and see how much oil is on the rockers. I think I’ll give the diesel oil a go. I’ll try to change it every 2,000-3,000 miles. I have a lot and use a lot in every engine. I’ll also probably do the spin on filter mod. And lastly, that’s a good sign. If there’s oil on the rockets I’ll have good peace of mind.

Thank you again

[1957Birdman]

When you remove the rocker covers then run the engine at idle. You should see oil coming out the ends and oil on the valve train. If it all looks dry then you have got a problem. The Y-Block engines had an overhead oiling problem because of the ash content in the oils available in the 1950s and 1960s. The oils are much better today and as long as you are changing your oil regularly there shouldn’t be a problem with the oil passages clogging up. I have never had that problem with my engine and I have driven it over 30K miles in the 27 years I’ve owned it. I use the Shell Rotella 15W-40 in my car and have had no problems with it. I do that because of the need to oil the flat valve tappers with an oil that better protects them. I have considered maybe adding a quart of synthetic oil as a part of the 6 quarts that the engine takes when I do an oil and filter change. I have not done that yet but might when I do my next change.
Lew Bachman
1957 Colonial White

[DynoDan’55]

If you see a lot of sludge when you remove the covers, then running diesel oil for a while may help, but if the oil passage in the head is indeed clogged, that likely won’t be enough to clear it. There are more drastic methods to try though before actually pulling a cylinder head. If you already have adequate oil flow now, I would scrape out any visible sludge before switching to Rotella.

[Rusty57]

As you gather all of our opinions about choice of oil, remember this basic fact.

Any lubricant you use on your car today is light-years ahead of what was available when it was a new vehicle.

The other adage I learned was from one of our former Vice President's of Engineering. His statement was that we had more issues and problems with customers who did not use any lubricant compared to those who used something.

[ScreaminJohnny]

When you remove the rocker covers then run the engine at idle. You should see oil coming out the ends and oil on the valve train. If it all looks dry then you have got a problem. The Y-Block engines had an overhead oiling problem because of the ash content in the oils available in the 1950s and 1960s. The oils are much better today and as long as you are changing your oil regularly there shouldn’t be a problem with the oil passages clogging up. I have never had that problem with my engine and I have driven it over 30K miles in the 27 years I’ve owned it. I use the Shell Rotella 15W-40 in my car and have had no problems with it. I do that because of the need to oil the flat valve tappers with an oil that better protects them. I have considered maybe adding a quart of synthetic oil as a part of the 6 quarts that the engine takes when I do an oil and filter change. I have not done that yet but might when I do my next change.
Lew Bachman
1957 Colonial White

Great info thanks. I’m really looking forward to driving it. Have you had any problems with the rear main?

[ScreaminJohnny]

As you gather all of our opinions about choice of oil, remember this basic fact.

Any lubricant you use on your car today is light-years ahead of what was available when it was a new vehicle.

The other adage I learned was from one of our former Vice President's of Engineering. His statement was that we had more issues and problems with customers who did not use any lubricant compared to those who used something.

That’s good quote. I like that