Wiring problems

[Coletbird]

I'm stuck on wiring problems like many people with these big birds. Can't seem to get brake lights to work even with replaced bulbs and new brake switch. Power at the brake switch dead where the lights go in. Reveres blinkers and runnings lights work. Dead at the fuse box. Also issues with all of the gauges. Are there any wiring harnesses out there for the gauge cluster and for the brake lights? Possibly the power driver seat as well?
1964 not convertible. Base model as far as I know.
This was supposed be my first car that my dad and I restored from when I was 5. Hit the wall of wiring and got stuck and didn't have the funds to take to a shop. Now it's fully in my possession at the age of 24 and would like any and all input and help to get this done and take my dad on a ride.
Thanks to all in advance

[Terry64HT]

Ford did a field modification to the wiring circuit for the brake lights on the 64's. The load from the 6 bulbs was too great on the hydraulic brake switch mounted on the master cylinder, so a relay kit was sent out for dealer installation. The harness from the switch was replaced and a relay installed on the fender beside the washer bag. The relays were prone to failure and that's where I would start checking things. If memory serves me, they had 3 spade connectors, power in, brake switch in, and power back to the brake light circuit. Years ago, when mine failed, I jumpered the pins to get the lights working until I figured out a fix.
Hope this helps
Terry
64HT

[jtschug]

So, when you look at the wiring, what do you see?

The reason I ask, is during the almost 60 years since this car left the factory in Wixom, Michigan, many things could have happened.

I've owned a few of these cars, and when it comes to wiring I've seen a lot shoddy "repairs". I put "repairs" in quotes because in almost every case as whoever did this tried to fix something by bypassing or short circuiting something they inevitably broke something else. It can be a real nightmare.

If a wire harness is a problem, it is easy to see. Pins can be broken or corroded. Wires can be melted or burnt. If you don't see that, then something else is the problem and trying to fix that 'something else' by hacking the wire harness seems like it was the full time job of an army of incompetent hacks that had their way with these cars in the decades before we got them.

Thankfully there is a tell-tale sign of a hack which is easy to spot as you look at the wire harness: black vinyl electrical tape. This crap didn't exist in a Ford factory back in 1964 (there was some black vinyl loom wrap - not the same thing). Where ever you see black vinyl electrical tape and or corrugated convolute tube, remove it an witness the sins underneath. Find all the wires spiced in and short circuiting everything. Repair the wires that have been cut with crimps, or solder, and cover it with sealing heat shrink tube. Never use a piece of electrical tape longer than 3".

If after you've had a chance to see the wire harness and it is too far gone to repair, the next best option is look for a good used wire harness. Sometimes it is easier to merge two wire harnesses together than to make all the repairs to one. Talk to people who have 1964 parts cars and/or call the T-bird vendors to see what is available. Unlike other things, many wire harnesses are not interchangable between years.

A more expensive option is a reproduction wire harness. It is not economically practical in most cases, but they are available, and it is amazing to see a brand new wire harness that looks exactly like the original.

I caution against trying to make a "universal" wire harness work. Those are more appropriate for cars with very simple electrical systems, or custom cars that don't use any of the original equipment. They seem like a cheaper option, but once you really get in to it, it will take more time and cost more to get it to work properly, and you will need to do some real re-engineering of the car.

It isn't necessary to redesign the electrical system, the electrical system works fine, particularly with a few component upgrades and some modifications related to the 1964 AMP circuit. Most of the wire harness gremlins are caused by people trying to do a quick fix but actually break the system or make it more fragile (wires twisted together might work for a little while, but not forever).

Good luck.

[Alan H. Tast]

First and foremost on 64s - inspect the firewall bulkhead harness connectors. Pull tem apart carefully and clean them up, and repair melted wires. This was a common failure point for the model Year. Others can chime in on how to do this or what to look out for.

[tmjsong1aolcom]

First with brake light is to remove the 2 ends on the end of the brake light switch on the end of the master cylinder. Short the 2 together and do your brake lights come on? May or may not need to have the ign. switch in the on position. Again a running change for the brake light to work with the switch in the on position.

Fuz
58's&64's
tmjsong1@aol.com