'56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Moderator: Joe Johnston
'56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Just about finished with the CASCO dual exhaust install and thought I'd install the rear anti-sway bar while I'm under there.
This is a set I bought about 8 years ago and am just now looking at it. Looks sturdy and complete...except for a clear illustration of how it actually goes together. It came from Thunderbird Southwest via Larry's Thunderbird in Corona.
I've looked on line for pictures or a good illustration but didn't find much help.
Anyone have any pictures of how this is supposed to go?
This is a set I bought about 8 years ago and am just now looking at it. Looks sturdy and complete...except for a clear illustration of how it actually goes together. It came from Thunderbird Southwest via Larry's Thunderbird in Corona.
I've looked on line for pictures or a good illustration but didn't find much help.
Anyone have any pictures of how this is supposed to go?
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
If it's Addco brand. You may need to relocate/move/bend the rear brake hardline across the axle.
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Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
To my knowledge, Addco and Hotchkis are the only two brands of sway bars that Larry's sells. If it's not tubular, it's an Addco bar.
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Very helpful, thanks... love the images.
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Here's more info..
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Make sure you follow the instructions to only tighten the angle bracket mounting bolts to 30 lb. ft. Based on what I see in the parts list that joint uses a lock nut which is good.
I always am concerned when a bolt passes though a tubular section. It is easier than you might realize to collapse the walls from the clamp load of the bolt. The closer the hole is to the sidewall the less chance of collapse.
What you do not see in most bolt-through-tube joints is a tubular spacer inside the hollow section. That minimizes the potential for tubing collapse.
I always am concerned when a bolt passes though a tubular section. It is easier than you might realize to collapse the walls from the clamp load of the bolt. The closer the hole is to the sidewall the less chance of collapse.
What you do not see in most bolt-through-tube joints is a tubular spacer inside the hollow section. That minimizes the potential for tubing collapse.
Rusty
VTCI 13079
VTCI 13079
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Good points Rusty. One thing concerning me is the angle bracket attaching to the frame. The frame on my '56 is completely closed, not open. I have no idea how to get a bolt through it to secure the angle bracket. I'm pretty much at a standstill until I get that figured out.Rusty57 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 23, 2023 11:43 am Make sure you follow the instructions to only tighten the angle bracket mounting bolts to 30 lb. ft. Based on what I see in the parts list that joint uses a lock nut which is good.
I always am concerned when a bolt passes though a tubular section. It is easier than you might realize to collapse the walls from the clamp load of the bolt. The closer the hole is to the sidewall the less chance of collapse.
What you do not see in most bolt-through-tube joints is a tubular spacer inside the hollow section. That minimizes the potential for tubing collapse.
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
My “best guess” is that there is a long bolt that goes through both walls of the enclosed frame. In the document written by Gene Nelson he notes that you need a log 3/8” drill bit to drill the hole where the bracket mounts.
Maybe I am mis-interpreting his comments. Does your hardware kit include 2 long 3/8” bolts and 2 locknuts?
Maybe I am mis-interpreting his comments. Does your hardware kit include 2 long 3/8” bolts and 2 locknuts?
Rusty
VTCI 13079
VTCI 13079
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
If it's a Thunderbird Southwest unit, contact them for instructions. Lance is the owner.
1956 Fiesta Red 312
1954 Ford Victoria 312
1948 Ford Convertible Street Rod 302
1954 Ford Victoria 312
1948 Ford Convertible Street Rod 302
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
I believe it does Rusty. I'll check it out. I remember seeing two long bolts and it didn't register what they were for...until now. Thanks.Rusty57 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 23, 2023 7:13 pm My “best guess” is that there is a long bolt that goes through both walls of the enclosed frame. In the document written by Gene Nelson he notes that you need a log 3/8” drill bit to drill the hole where the bracket mounts.
Maybe I am mis-interpreting his comments. Does your hardware kit include 2 long 3/8” bolts and 2 locknuts?
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
If I am correct (for once!) that is the through bolt that you do not want to over-tighten. You do not want to collapse the frame sides.
From my view the tricky part will be aligning those 2 holes. Based on Gene Nelson's document he used the "drill through from one side" technique. That will work if you can keep the bit perpendicular to the frame in 2 planes.
Another suggestion is to locate the hole as close to the bottom of the frame as possible. Visualize the 3/8' bolt just lying on the inside of the bottom part on the frame. That will minimize the potential to deflect the sides while tightening the bolt.
From my view the tricky part will be aligning those 2 holes. Based on Gene Nelson's document he used the "drill through from one side" technique. That will work if you can keep the bit perpendicular to the frame in 2 planes.
Another suggestion is to locate the hole as close to the bottom of the frame as possible. Visualize the 3/8' bolt just lying on the inside of the bottom part on the frame. That will minimize the potential to deflect the sides while tightening the bolt.
Rusty
VTCI 13079
VTCI 13079
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Makes sense Rusty, thanks. I'm thinking about just leaving it off for now. I've got plenty to do before I get the car running and I'm going to concentrate on those things first.Rusty57 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 12:42 pm If I am correct (for once!) that is the through bolt that you do not want to over-tighten. You do not want to collapse the frame sides.
From my view the tricky part will be aligning those 2 holes. Based on Gene Nelson's document he used the "drill through from one side" technique. That will work if you can keep the bit perpendicular to the frame in 2 planes.
Another suggestion is to locate the hole as close to the bottom of the frame as possible. Visualize the 3/8' bolt just lying on the inside of the bottom part on the frame. That will minimize the potential to deflect the sides while tightening the bolt.
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Trying to turn a boulevard cruiser into a lightweight European sports car does have it's issues.
VTCI # 13223
Re: '56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation
Regarding any concern that the thru bolt will crush the frame section.... You could cut some 1/16" or 1/8" sheet steel into a reasonably large sized reinforcing plates and put one on each side of the frame where the hole goes thru. You could even make it as "tall" as the frame so that it puts some of the load on the top and bottom legs of the frame instead of just on the sides of the frame.