'56 TB Rear anti-sway bar Installation

[fijidad]

Just about finished with the CASCO dual exhaust install and thought I'd install the rear anti-sway bar while I'm under there.

This is a set I bought about 8 years ago and am just now looking at it. Looks sturdy and complete...except for a clear illustration of how it actually goes together. It came from Thunderbird Southwest via Larry's Thunderbird in Corona.

I've looked on line for pictures or a good illustration but didn't find much help.

Anyone have any pictures of how this is supposed to go?

[Jimntempe]

If it's Addco brand.

[Jimntempe]

If it's Addco brand. You may need to relocate/move/bend the rear brake hardline across the axle.

addco rear bar instructions tbird 1957 page 1.jpg

addco rear bar instructions tbird 1957 page 1.jpg

[55blacktie]

To my knowledge, Addco and Hotchkis are the only two brands of sway bars that Larry's sells. If it's not tubular, it's an Addco bar.

[fijidad]

Very helpful, thanks... love the images.

[Jimntempe]

Here's more info..

[Rusty57]

Make sure you follow the instructions to only tighten the angle bracket mounting bolts to 30 lb. ft. Based on what I see in the parts list that joint uses a lock nut which is good.

I always am concerned when a bolt passes though a tubular section. It is easier than you might realize to collapse the walls from the clamp load of the bolt. The closer the hole is to the sidewall the less chance of collapse.

What you do not see in most bolt-through-tube joints is a tubular spacer inside the hollow section. That minimizes the potential for tubing collapse.

[fijidad]

Make sure you follow the instructions to only tighten the angle bracket mounting bolts to 30 lb. ft. Based on what I see in the parts list that joint uses a lock nut which is good.

I always am concerned when a bolt passes though a tubular section. It is easier than you might realize to collapse the walls from the clamp load of the bolt. The closer the hole is to the sidewall the less chance of collapse.

What you do not see in most bolt-through-tube joints is a tubular spacer inside the hollow section. That minimizes the potential for tubing collapse.

Good points Rusty. One thing concerning me is the angle bracket attaching to the frame. The frame on my '56 is completely closed, not open. I have no idea how to get a bolt through it to secure the angle bracket. I'm pretty much at a standstill until I get that figured out.

[Rusty57]

My “best guess” is that there is a long bolt that goes through both walls of the enclosed frame. In the document written by Gene Nelson he notes that you need a log 3/8” drill bit to drill the hole where the bracket mounts.

Maybe I am mis-interpreting his comments. Does your hardware kit include 2 long 3/8” bolts and 2 locknuts?

[paul2748]

If it's a Thunderbird Southwest unit, contact them for instructions. Lance is the owner.

[fijidad]

My “best guess” is that there is a long bolt that goes through both walls of the enclosed frame. In the document written by Gene Nelson he notes that you need a log 3/8” drill bit to drill the hole where the bracket mounts.

Maybe I am mis-interpreting his comments. Does your hardware kit include 2 long 3/8” bolts and 2 locknuts?

I believe it does Rusty. I'll check it out. I remember seeing two long bolts and it didn't register what they were for...until now. Thanks.

[Rusty57]

If I am correct (for once!) that is the through bolt that you do not want to over-tighten. You do not want to collapse the frame sides.

From my view the tricky part will be aligning those 2 holes. Based on Gene Nelson's document he used the "drill through from one side" technique. That will work if you can keep the bit perpendicular to the frame in 2 planes.

Another suggestion is to locate the hole as close to the bottom of the frame as possible. Visualize the 3/8' bolt just lying on the inside of the bottom part on the frame. That will minimize the potential to deflect the sides while tightening the bolt.

[fijidad]

If I am correct (for once!) that is the through bolt that you do not want to over-tighten. You do not want to collapse the frame sides.

From my view the tricky part will be aligning those 2 holes. Based on Gene Nelson's document he used the "drill through from one side" technique. That will work if you can keep the bit perpendicular to the frame in 2 planes.

Another suggestion is to locate the hole as close to the bottom of the frame as possible. Visualize the 3/8' bolt just lying on the inside of the bottom part on the frame. That will minimize the potential to deflect the sides while tightening the bolt.

Makes sense Rusty, thanks. I'm thinking about just leaving it off for now. I've got plenty to do before I get the car running and I'm going to concentrate on those things first.

[ward 57]

Trying to turn a boulevard cruiser into a lightweight European sports car does have it's issues.

[Jimntempe]

Regarding any concern that the thru bolt will crush the frame section.... You could cut some 1/16" or 1/8" sheet steel into a reasonably large sized reinforcing plates and put one on each side of the frame where the hole goes thru. You could even make it as "tall" as the frame so that it puts some of the load on the top and bottom legs of the frame instead of just on the sides of the frame.