66 390 Rebuild Kits? Exhaust Manifold
Moderator: redstangbob
66 390 Rebuild Kits? Exhaust Manifold
What Exhaust Manifolds do I buy? I’m just looking for the cheapest solid simple install Manifolds. I’m not Ricky Bobby & don’t need to go fast I just wanna go. These look like they would work but the price is too low that it hits that part of my brain that says u aren’t that lucky. Limited knowledge and experience also curious about the rebuild kits what is recommended. I just want to get the most Bang for the buck so if spending more is a recommended thing I’m okay but if it’s like “that’ll work but” things got additional cost popping up everywhere I don’t need to be looking for more.
Re: 66 390 Rebuild Kits? Exhaust Manifold
These F-series exhaust manifolds will not work. You need Thunderbird exhaust manifolds, which are not reproduced. Good news: there are a lot of used manifolds out there. I would call one of the T-bird houses: Pat Wilson, Birdnest, etc. and ask if they have a pair they could send you. If only one of yours is cracked, maybe you only need one?
Once you've got a set of manifolds, you will want the mating surface planed in a machine shop. The heat warps these things and they are notorious for leaks, Have a machine shop get the gasket surface back to flat. I'm assuming on a rebuild, you will also have a machine shop installing hardened exhaust valve seats and new guides, ask them to do the exhaust manifolds at the same time. If there are big pits on the exhaust flange of the head, they can fix that too.
While you are visiting the machine shop, have them check out the block as well. Particularly they need to check to bores. Usually on a rebuild if the motor has a lot of miles, they will rebore and hone the block. They you will need to get oversized pistons to match the new bore diameters. You will want to know this before you buy the rebuild kit because the pistons, rings, and bores must all be the same size. The machine shop should also install new camshaft bearings, and if there is a groove worn in the crank spacer have them clean that up too.
You will be spending real money at this machine shop, and I highly recommend you find one with real Ford FE experience. These engines are a little different and often get screwed up by shops that don't know how to do them right.
A few things you may want to spend extra money on:
Consider a hydraulic roller cam: This will require a more expensive camshaft, much more expensive hydraulic roller lifters, custom pushrods, and a steel distributor gear (don't forget that) -- this will add big money to the build, but modern engine oils have made flat tappet camshafts an endangered species and while this may add 50% to the cost of the overhaul, you won't have to do it again when the camshaft fills the engine with shrapnel.
Brass freeze plugs - these only cost an extra $20 or so, but very much worth it.
Optional for a stock rebuild: aluminum intake manifold and water pump. This will remove about 50 lbs of iron off the nose of the car, and it may be worth the few hundred bucks this will cost in back pain alone in lifting that intake. It isn't stock, and it costs money, but while you are there...something to think about.
Once you've got a set of manifolds, you will want the mating surface planed in a machine shop. The heat warps these things and they are notorious for leaks, Have a machine shop get the gasket surface back to flat. I'm assuming on a rebuild, you will also have a machine shop installing hardened exhaust valve seats and new guides, ask them to do the exhaust manifolds at the same time. If there are big pits on the exhaust flange of the head, they can fix that too.
While you are visiting the machine shop, have them check out the block as well. Particularly they need to check to bores. Usually on a rebuild if the motor has a lot of miles, they will rebore and hone the block. They you will need to get oversized pistons to match the new bore diameters. You will want to know this before you buy the rebuild kit because the pistons, rings, and bores must all be the same size. The machine shop should also install new camshaft bearings, and if there is a groove worn in the crank spacer have them clean that up too.
You will be spending real money at this machine shop, and I highly recommend you find one with real Ford FE experience. These engines are a little different and often get screwed up by shops that don't know how to do them right.
A few things you may want to spend extra money on:
Consider a hydraulic roller cam: This will require a more expensive camshaft, much more expensive hydraulic roller lifters, custom pushrods, and a steel distributor gear (don't forget that) -- this will add big money to the build, but modern engine oils have made flat tappet camshafts an endangered species and while this may add 50% to the cost of the overhaul, you won't have to do it again when the camshaft fills the engine with shrapnel.
Brass freeze plugs - these only cost an extra $20 or so, but very much worth it.
Optional for a stock rebuild: aluminum intake manifold and water pump. This will remove about 50 lbs of iron off the nose of the car, and it may be worth the few hundred bucks this will cost in back pain alone in lifting that intake. It isn't stock, and it costs money, but while you are there...something to think about.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Re: 66 390 Rebuild Kits? Exhaust Manifold
All good advice. Its a bit tough to source the parts before you know what to expect from your machinist. You may even end up having to source a new block.
I would advise getting a fel pro gasket kit. Find the best quality bearings you can (once you know that size). So good hypereutectic pistons (once you know what size. I went with flat tops for my build. But you need to calculate your compression.).
And as an alternative to the roller cam which is by far the best option, but very pricey... Summit makes a house brand hydraulic flat tappet cam with pretty decent specs for near stock. (you will need to upgrade your spring package). Just make sure to break in the cam with a zinc additive.
Also.. Have them fit the engine with a dummy cam once the new bearings are in. sometimes there are fitment issues.
The Ford FE is one of the more expensive engines to build.
I would advise getting a fel pro gasket kit. Find the best quality bearings you can (once you know that size). So good hypereutectic pistons (once you know what size. I went with flat tops for my build. But you need to calculate your compression.).
And as an alternative to the roller cam which is by far the best option, but very pricey... Summit makes a house brand hydraulic flat tappet cam with pretty decent specs for near stock. (you will need to upgrade your spring package). Just make sure to break in the cam with a zinc additive.
Also.. Have them fit the engine with a dummy cam once the new bearings are in. sometimes there are fitment issues.
The Ford FE is one of the more expensive engines to build.
Re: 66 390 Rebuild Kits? Exhaust Manifold
Don't forget the crank. If scored and needs machining you will need to get the correct size bearings. I wouldn't buy a gasket kit until after you have block machined as you will need to know what thickness gasket to get to obtain the correct compression height. This all depends on what pistons you use (flat, dished etc).