1978 front suspension rebuild

[Thugpug]

I'm working on rebuilding the front suspension, bushings and all, and I'm having issues figuring out how to remove what I'm just calling the upper control arm swivel bars from the arms themselves. I'm hoping someone here knows how I can get them out for the bushings and such. A second issue is how to get the bottom ball joints out of the arms. They look to just push in from the bottom and even the new ones seem so but I've beaten the ball joints and tried pressing them and they just don't want to come out. Help is much appreciated.

[Alan H. Tast]

The upper control arm shaft bushings probably are screwed in if they're like older-generation Ford upper control arm shafts/bushings, so you'll need a pipe wrench with long pipe for leverage. Otherwise, break out the "blue wrench" and burn out the rubber in the uppers control arm bushings.

The lower ball joint may also be screwed/threaded into place - try lefty-loosey with a large pipe wrench and pipe for leverage. They're already boogered up, so give it a try.

I assume you don't have a copy of the factory shop manual set. It may behoove you to get a copy of the set (there's 5 books in total) and read through the Chassis-Suspension volume. IF I can catch a break before the weekend I might be able to see what it says, but I'm already late getting articles written for the next issue of VTCI's Thunderbird Scoop magazine AND I have deadlines up the wazoo where I work at (I'm already typing this into my 12th hour on the job for the second day in a row with no end in sight).

...and I call this a hobby?

[Thugpug]

The upper control arm shaft bushings probably are screwed in if they're like older-generation Ford upper control arm shafts/bushings, so you'll need a pipe wrench with long pipe for leverage. Otherwise, break out the "blue wrench" and burn out the rubber in the uppers control arm bushings.

The lower ball joint may also be screwed/threaded into place - try lefty-loosey with a large pipe wrench and pipe for leverage. They're already boogered up, so give it a try.

I assume you don't have a copy of the factory shop manual set. It may behoove you to get a copy of the set (there's 5 books in total) and read through the Chassis-Suspension volume. IF I can catch a break before the weekend I might be able to see what it says, but I'm already late getting articles written for the next issue of VTCI's Thunderbird Scoop magazine AND I have deadlines up the wazoo where I work at (I'm already typing this into my 12th hour on the job for the second day in a row with no end in sight).

...and I call this a hobby?

The sleeves and all just seem to slide. I cooked one bushing apart and got one sleeve out but I can't get the larger knuckle part whete the bolt goes to go thru the hole and I'm wondering if the outer washer looking bit comes out but. The new ball joint has no threads. It just looks like it pushes in like any other

[Alan H. Tast]

Well, I ended up pulling my copies of the '77 and '79 shop manuals out to see what they say - you're not going to like Ford's 'better idea' on the lower arm and upper arm. This is straight from the Shop Manual:
"Lower suspension arms must always be replaced as a unit. Ball joints and other subcomponents should not be installed in a used suspension arm."

The shop manual's exploded diagram for the front suspension has this added note:
"Ball joints must not be replaced. Upper and lower suspension arms should be replaced as a unit. However, upper arm bushings and shafts and both upper and lower ball joint seals, may be replaced as required." Ford does not provide information on how to remove the upper or lower ball joints from the arms.

Front Suspension - T-bird/LTD II/Cougar/Mk V/Continental (1979 Ford Car Shop Manual Vol. 1-Chassis)

For the upper arm bushings, Ford had tools that slipped around the inner shaft to push the bushing out towards the center of the arm, and inside the upper arm around the inner shaft (to keep the arm from collapsing when the bushing is pressed) . Using an arbor press, another tool was used to press on the tool over the inner shaft to remove it. The tools were repositioned to press the new bushings into place.

Remove Upper Arm Bushings (1979 Ford Car Shop Manual Vol. 1-Chassis)

Install Upper Arm Bushings (1979 Ford Car Shop Manual Vol. 1-Chassis)

Upper Arm Bushings Replacement (1979 Ford Car Shop Manual Vol. 1-Chassis)

Even though I used to own a '77 Town Landau 20 years ago, I never had to replace the ball joints. I don't know what the availability is for lower or upper arms with ball joints already installed, but I would think that if someone is marketing and selling replacement joints that they may have some tips or tricks to use to press the old joints/bushings out and new joints/bushings in. You may have to "bite the bullet" and go to an automotive machine shop or suspension shop to R&R the joints, provided they have the presses and tools to do the job.

[Thugpug]

Well, I ended up pulling my copies of the '77 and '79 shop manuals out to see what they say - you're not going to like Ford's 'better idea' on the lower arm and upper arm. This is straight from the Shop Manual:
"Lower suspension arms must always be replaced as a unit. Ball joints and other subcomponents should not be installed in a used suspension arm."

The shop manual's exploded diagram for the front suspension has this added note:
"Ball joints must not be replaced. Upper and lower suspension arms should be replaced as a unit. However, upper arm bushings and shafts and both upper and lower ball joint seals, may be replaced as required." Ford does not provide information on how to remove the upper or lower ball joints from the arms.

For the upper arm bushings, Ford had tools that slipped around the inner shaft to push the bushing out towards the center of the arm, and inside the upper arm around the inner shaft (to keep the arm from collapsing when the bushing is pressed) . Using an arbor press, another tool was used to press on the tool over the inner shaft to remove it. The tools were repositioned to press the new bushings into place.

Even though I used to own a '77 Town Landau 20 years ago, I never had to replace the ball joints. I don't know what the availability is for lower or upper arms with ball joints already installed, but I would think that if someone is marketing and selling replacement joints that they may have some tips or tricks to use to press the old joints/bushings out and new joints/bushings in. You may have to "bite the bullet" and go to an automotive machine shop or suspension shop to R&R the joints, provided they have the presses and tools to do the job.

Well thats a bunch of pain. The upper bushings I believe I can work myself with some blue wrench and such. Though the lower control arms I have not been able to find a single thing for new arms. But alot of places sell the ball joint itself like any other vehicle. The upper ball joint I did have to drill the rivets out and just use bolts to hold the new ones in so those are good to go. By the bottom of the arm and ball joint you can see a separation point of the ball joint and the control arm like it comes apart but it won't budge. I have been thinking of a shop doing it and it sounds like that's the way to go as long as they don't destroy my parts. I appreciate your help. Hopefully my units will separate. On a side note, would you happen to know the pressure the steering gear box has? I'm looking to do a Saginaw pump conversion and need to know if I need a pressure reducer down to 800 psi.

[Thugpug]

Well, I ended up pulling my copies of the '77 and '79 shop manuals out to see what they say - you're not going to like Ford's 'better idea' on the lower arm and upper arm. This is straight from the Shop Manual:
"Lower suspension arms must always be replaced as a unit. Ball joints and other subcomponents should not be installed in a used suspension arm."

The shop manual's exploded diagram for the front suspension has this added note:
"Ball joints must not be replaced. Upper and lower suspension arms should be replaced as a unit. However, upper arm bushings and shafts and both upper and lower ball joint seals, may be replaced as required." Ford does not provide information on how to remove the upper or lower ball joints from the arms.

79 sm 14-03-2 Fig 1 Ft Susp LTD II-Cougar-MkV-Cont.gif


For the upper arm bushings, Ford had tools that slipped around the inner shaft to push the bushing out towards the center of the arm, and inside the upper arm around the inner shaft (to keep the arm from collapsing when the bushing is pressed) . Using an arbor press, another tool was used to press on the tool over the inner shaft to remove it. The tools were repositioned to press the new bushings into place.

79 sm 14-03-5 Fig 5 Remove Upper Arm Bushings.gif


79 sm 14-03-6 Fig 6 Install Upper Arm Bushings.gif


79 sm 14-03-6 Upper Arm Bushings Replacement.gif

Even though I used to own a '77 Town Landau 20 years ago, I never had to replace the ball joints. I don't know what the availability is for lower or upper arms with ball joints already installed, but I would think that if someone is marketing and selling replacement joints that they may have some tips or tricks to use to press the old joints/bushings out and new joints/bushings in. You may have to "bite the bullet" and go to an automotive machine shop or suspension shop to R&R the joints, provided they have the presses and tools to do the job.

I don't suppose you would have the torque specs for everything for assembly would you? Got all new joints and poly bushings.

[Alan H. Tast]

Would take time for me to find, and right now regretfully my 'real job' won't allow me to get to something like this until later this weekend or early next week. If someone else can post, please do.

[Thugpug]

Would take time for me to find, and right now regretfully my 'real job' won't allow me to get to something like this until later this weekend or early next week. If someone else can post, please do.

I don't need them asap, by weekend would surely help as I need to get the car moved cuz landlord needs something that's blocked by the car. If not it's no sweat if you need more time. I can just set the torque somewhere enough to move the car a bit. I appreciate you and your help through all this