Remove exhaust manifolds with engine in?

[jtschug]

I really hope that isn't a copper pipe hooked up to the master cylinder.

[David Langhorne]

Ha Ha - yes I've seen this debated before but here in the UK if you need a replacement brake pipe made up this is what you get - copper. All my brake pipes are now copper which is perfectly legal and will pass the inspection (although cars over 40 don't need one). I believe they need to be properly clipped down. I accept they MAY be marginally more likely to split over time but have never heard of any problems myself. It is much more likely an original brake line would corrode over time in areas which are not easy to spot so I'll take my chances with copper!

[jtschug]

All my brake lines are stainless, so corrosion is less of a concern.

[David Langhorne]

Yes thats probably the best but I didn't fancy my chances bending it and trying to get it to seal up without leaking.

[Dunk67]

If you only have one bolt broken off like I did you could put a clamp on it either permanently or temporarily. If you haven't the equipment or anyone to help this will work. I did mine over 15 years ago and made a clamp from an old tire iron. I have attached a pic

That's clever for something that'll work in a pinch. I'm not in a pinch though, so down the rabbit hole I go.This one will eat into my other planned winter projects a bit.

A few late nights at work this week or I'd already have it out. I got it mostly ready to pull Sunday, then went to help a friend with his car and pick up my engine hoist I left at his place after he last used it, and finished the rest tonight. Just needs up and out, and of course an extra pair of hands to remove the hood.

Heads are C6AE-R and either C6AE 6090R or C8AE 6090R. Differences between these castings? The one looked more like an 8 than a 6, but that would mean it's not original to the car. I find it odd enough that the castings aren't the same. Anything could have been done in the past 55 years though. The transmission is likely not original as the valve body is a D2 casting. That explains my confusion with drive vs green dot drive and it not behaving as I expected.

In any event, I'll pull it out this week, de-grease, and power wash it. Then on to disassembly. If bearings and taper on the bores is not bad I'll just do new rings, bearings, gaskets along with basics like a modern cam, double roller, and aluminum intake if I can find one. It'll at least be a good opportunity to clean up the engine bay before sending it for paint. This one is not destined to be a show car and will likely be painted a non-factory color (whatever the wife decides), so a clean black engine bay is fine.

[Dunk67]

Engine is out, so it begins. Word from the FE forum is these heads are the same, they just changed casting number format at some point.

[Dunk67]

Slow progress for now, but I figured an update is in order. Engine is disassembled. Three exhaust bolts drilled and tapped. I've found a few things...

Valve guides have .004"-.006" slop, new guides are in order. Seats look typical, some pitting and such. Seat height varies but nothing wild. I'm unsure if hardened seats on the exhaust valves are worthwhile. I'll discuss with the machine ship when I drop them off. The other thing I wonder is if paying the labor the hardened seats if it makes sense to install larger exhaust valves, or intake as well. My understanding from the FE guys is the C6AE-R heads are the same casting as CJ heads, only difference is valve size. There is a bit of CFM on intake and exhaust to be gained by going with larger CJ size valves.

In any event, I decided on a Lunati 10330701, 256/262, 213/219 at .050", on a 112* LSA with .524"/.540" lift. Aggressive modern lobe profile close to the limit for stock rockers. Springs, retainers, and locks are ordered and when they arrive I'll drop the heads off. Should maximize power while keeping mild manners.

The other major issue is a very deep scratch in the #1 cylinder. Bores are worn .006"-/007" at the top. Could get away with a .010" bore if not for the scratch, which as best I can measure the scratch is at least .024" deep. it might clean up with a .030" bore, if not .040" should do it. I hate to take a cirgin block to what might be max bore on the first go around. Before ordering pistons I'll drop the block at the machine shop and see what they say it'll take. It might be a candidate for a sleeve on that cylinder.

Aside from that everything is just super crusty and full of sludge. Oil drainback holes in the heads were mostly plugged with sludge, lots of oil must have been retained in the heads which would explain the bit of smokiness given the worn valve guides. All bearings showed a lot of copper but only one rod bearing had a scratch. Crank journals look good. Oil gallery plugs were weeping so I think I'll tap them for NPT plugs. I'll restrict the oil passages to the top end. Freeze plugs had holes rusted through it didn't leak a drop of coolant, because the block is full of crud. Generally seems to be a high mile worn out engine, maybe lack of oil changes or mostly short trips but a good core aside from the one trashed cylinder from swallowing something and otherwise neglected maintenance.

[stubbie]

Does the scratch go all the way down?

[Dunk67]

No, the scratch is only at the top inch of the bore.

[jtschug]

No, the scratch is only at the top inch of the bore.

AKA the worst place to have a scratch like that.

[Dunk67]

An update... Slow boat for sure but getting closer.

[Dunk67]

Another update, getting closer. Rattle canned the engine bay black for simplicity sake. A couple spots I didn't clean and prep well enough but good enough for a driver. I can touch up if needed. Decided against body color due to logistics.

Next fun will be brakes. I suspect the booster won't fit with the tall valve covers. Saw a '66 with hydroboost at the Carlisle Ford show, I'll probably go with hydroboost if the booster doesn't fit. Need dual circuit anyway.

[Rt.146]

Why if you were going to pull the engine, did you try and remove the exhaust bolts before pulling it? I guess I got lucky my 390 was out of the car, when I removed the bolts on the manifold with heat and Blaster, the thing is with the engine in the car to get the socket square on the bolt is difficult, easy to overlook, then comes the broken bolts, because the torque is off, not bragging with the engine out of the car I undid all the manifold bolts without one breaking! In the greater scheme of repairs I have performed, I needed this one.

[Dunk67]

The goal of all this was to fix the exhaust leak from the heat valve on the passenger side exhaust manifold, to replace that with a spacer and new gaskets. The engine started easy and ran well.

[DakotaLee]

Another update, getting closer. Rattle canned the engine bay black for simplicity sake. A couple spots I didn't clean and prep well enough but good enough for a driver. I can touch up if needed. Decided against body color due to logistics.

Next fun will be brakes. I suspect the booster won't fit with the tall valve covers. Saw a '66 with hydroboost at the Carlisle Ford show, I'll probably go with hydroboost if the booster doesn't fit. Need dual circuit anyway.

What is the part # on your crankshaft pulley? I have been trying to find a dual pulley for years, no part # no luck anywhere. BTW great job, looks sweet!