Strut rod bushings, can't get nut off
Moderator: redstangbob
Strut rod bushings, can't get nut off
Any tips to remove the large front nut on the strut rod? I can't get mine to budge. Can't get an impact in there. First tried an adjustable wrench then a socket on a short breaker bar. Heat and PB... Won't move at all. Can't get a cheater pipe on it, and it doesn't help that rod moves around a bit since the bushings are falling apart, and will twist like a torsion bar.
Re: Strut rod bushings, can't get nut off
Did you get the pin out first?
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Re: Strut rod bushings, can't get nut off
Yes, cotter pin is removed. That was a bit of a pain with the limited access, but all of it is out.
Re: Strut rod bushings, can't get nut off
Once upon a time I had to remove the badly rusted nuts on my exhaust manifolds. I soaked them with PB and used a torque wrench to make sure I didn’t apply too much. Repeating this several times a day over several days did the trick. When I heard the first one squeak I knew I was making headway. The nuts were replaced with brass by the way. Not suggesting that for you. Good luck.
Bill
Bill
Past owner 1961 Thunderbird - Heritage Burgundy Metallic
If there are no dogs in heaven, send me where they went. - Will Rogers
If there are no dogs in heaven, send me where they went. - Will Rogers
Re: Strut rod bushings, can't get nut off
I spritzed with PB for a couple days, then since the front is in the air I put a jack under the lower control arm to get a better angle on the strut rod nut, heated to very hot with MAPP, and was able to get one side off kicking a breaker bar (no room for a cheater pipe, close to ground). Now I've got the front suspension bits from that side all blasted, painted, and ready for reassembly... and on to the other side.