1964 Power Steering Query.

[Jim Wulf]

Thanks Bill. As always a wealth of knowledge and experience. I had all the rubber bushings tie rod ends replaced a couple years back. I also replaced the rag joint and also got an alignment right after. That being said, it might be a good idea to get it up on the lift somewhere and verify everything is measured and tight. I may also take your suggestion to toe in the front, if it’s not done already. I also just ordered a new steering hose, since mine had insulation cracks all over and looked like several pieces put together. I have my doubts the cable is causing this issue, it needed to be done. To better describe the steering situation, going straight, the steering is very light with about 2-3 inches of play. When turning right or left, there is resistance but it doesn’t feel constant. It’s there for a while, but make a minor adjustment and the resistance point seems to have moved ever so slightly. I hope it doesn’t need a new steering box or pump, but I’ll have to see. Thanks Tony

Before getting into more involved possible solutions, you may want to first check the condition of the power steering belt and/or the belt tension. A slipping belt will cause the steering to become jerky, going great in a straight line and then acting up and binding when turning in either direction. If you're fortunate enough to NOT have air conditioning, it's easy to tension the belt by securing a large adjustable wrench to the web reinforcement on the PS pump bracket, loosening the adjustment bolts and applying enough force to tighten the belt. If the car is equipped with AC, it's more problematic because the AC compressor and bracket block access to the PS pump bracket. In that case I resort to using a jack from under the car with an appropriately sized piece of wood to jack the pump up to tighten the belt. It's not that easy, but I don't like prying against the body of the car from above to try and move the pump.

[RAVEN]

Do know going in, if you miss adjust the preload, you may cause the steering box to pull in great amounts in either right or left. You also need special tools to set the spool center stops.

[Tbirdgul]

The more I think about it, I think it may be the pump since I believe I got a rebuilt steering box a couple years back.

[paulr]

There have been some pretty poor rebuilds on Eaton pumps; some hacks out there. if your gearbox is a Redhead, it's not your problem; none are better. Back on Eaton pumps, I've paid for rebuilt pumps twice over the years, shipped both back for replacements until they sent ones that worked somewhat ok.

Performance really improved when I drained the whole system and replaced it with full synthetic Type F. Expensive, but the pump was never quieter or better under load.

[Tbirdgul]

Thanks gents for the feedback. I think the easiest path may be to replace the fluid when I replace the power steering hose. I’ll check belt tension as well. Let’s see if I get any improvement in handling. Like I said earlier though, steering is not terrible, but getting the car to return to center would be nice.

[Terry64HT]

Performance really improved when I drained the whole system and replaced it with full synthetic Type F. Expensive, but the pump was never quieter or better under load.

Paul, any suggestions on the best way to completely drain the system without removing it?
Terry
64HT

[paulr]

Can't help there, sorry. Some other thoughts that might help, though. I was replacing wiper lines, so it was easy to drain all parts including the wiper pump with the exception of the gearbox. By manually turning the steering wheel, most of what's there (very little anyway) is driven out through the open port if you've removed those lines. I was advised just to add the synthetic Type F directly as it blends easily with conventional Type F. Bleeding the air out initially was a little extra time-consuming but, after that was over the benefits were immediately felt and (not) heard.

PS, just opening the wiper lines doesn't completely drain the pump. If you remove the cowl, you can grab the arms and manually run the motor a few rotations and get it all out.

[Terry64HT]

Ok, this might be something to play with this spring since there's nowhere to go around here. If I get at it, I'll keep everyone posted.
Terry

[64ZCODE]

To eliminate the "notchy" feel when turning the steering wheel, try adding a conditioner to the power steering fluid. Lucas makes a product I've used on older cars and it can work wonders.

The steering wheel doesn't come back to center because the suspension has so little castor, like a shopping cart or a baby buggy. Replacement lower control arms with better geometry would take care of it. I have heard that after market control arms that add more castor are available for Ford Galaxies which are body on frame cars.

[Tbirdgul]

I Will be replacing the power steering hose this weekend since I can’t seem to find anyone who services old cars anymore. So sad really. Anyway, what do you all recommend for power steering fluid. I see Doug mentioned Lucas. What type? Synthetic ATF, regular ATF. All feedback welcome. Thanks, Tony

[Terry64HT]

For years I have used regular ATF Type F (as recommended in the manual) along with Lucas Transmission Fix as an additive. Seems to work well.
Terry
64HT

[Tbirdgul]

So much for a few minutes of work followed by worry-free driving. I got the power steering pressure hose from Macs auto and it appears to be too long. First, can some verify the pump and gear are original to a 64? Second, is there a correct routing for the high pressure hose? Nothing in the manual. I have a picture of someone’s very clean engine, probably Bobs or Terry’s or?? Can anyone share if the connection points are correct or not and also how it’s routes near the pump? Thanks Tony

[Terry64HT]

Tony, the two sections of hose I can get to are the same length as yours (can't measure the one that goes down to the steering box). A bit of history; I bought a replacement hose from Pat Wilson a few years ago and the thread on the steering box end wasn't correct. It took me several hours of sweat to finally figure it out. I bought one from Mac's and while the ends were correct, it was badly corroded inside. Knowing this is the type of service we get, I spent a fair bit of time cleaning it up, then installed it. I had foolishly thrown out the original when I began to install the first hose, but I know it was different. I shouldn't call the one in the car "original", because I'm sure I installed it about 20 years ago. Old photos show that it was mostly rubber hose and did not have a lot of metal segments. The last one I've attached a photo from some years ago.
The one I finished up with looks like yours and I had to do a bit of playing around to get it to route in a decent way.
Hope these photos help
Terry
64HT

[Tbirdgul]

Terry, thanks so much for taking the time and effort to share the pics. You’re right, it looks just like the one I have. I was concerned because the angled fitting didn’t line up and the hose projects way up in the air compared to what I was expecting. It’s good to see your pic of the hose looping from the front backwards to the pump.

[paulr]

Hello Tony,
Here's my two cents. These shots are several years old, before my teardown/rebuild phase where I'm stuck now. If you squint, or click to enlarge, you can see power steering hose routing somewhat. I rebuilt the PS system on this '64 mimicking '64s I studied at local judging events and our local club. Not guaranteeing it's biblical but I believe this is the factory pattern. Good luck. (Excuse the '65-style cowl brace--I had to!)