I finally started getting some pressure. I just had a real bad bubble. It’s started working out finally.sseebart wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 12:00 pm With or without boost, if the brake hydraulics are free of air, you should have some resistance in the pedal. I would run through the system again: bench bleed the master cylinder, check the lines for leaks, make sure the wheel cylinders are holding pressure, etc.
~Steve
1964 Thunderbird build
Moderator: redstangbob
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Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
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- Posts: 89
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Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
Well I also ran into a big problem. I believe that I’m gonna have to just go ahead and rebuild the motor. After all the testing and tuning with these new parts I have developed a knock. Which I believe to be a wrist pin. But I’m not sure so I believe I will be taking a break from the car. Try and rebuild it this winter.
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Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
I purchased the radiator from Champion radiators. They have the best deal on it. So the fit and finish is great except for the two upper mounting bolts. They are in the wrong location.wallyblackburn wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 5:31 pm Where did you get the radiator? Any mods to make it fit?
I scanned the whole thread twice and didn't see - sorry if I just missed it.
Thanks,
Wally
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Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
Thanks. How hard would it be to get rid of that overflow tank, I wonder? Or at least tuck it outta the way. I mean mine - yours looks great ;)crashchoate wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 8:07 pmI purchased the radiator from Champion radiators. They have the best deal on it. So the fit and finish is great except for the two upper mounting bolts. They are in the wrong location.wallyblackburn wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 5:31 pm Where did you get the radiator? Any mods to make it fit?
I scanned the whole thread twice and didn't see - sorry if I just missed it.
Thanks,
Wally
Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
Well, that sucks. Sorry to hear it. Probably best to know that the basics are sound before adding more horsepower.crashchoate wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 8:05 pm Well I also ran into a big problem. I believe that I’m gonna have to just go ahead and rebuild the motor. After all the testing and tuning with these new parts I have developed a knock. Which I believe to be a wrist pin. But I’m not sure so I believe I will be taking a break from the car. Try and rebuild it this winter.
That being said, have you gone through with a stethoscope to make sure it's a wrist pin? With other cars, I've traced awful-sounding knocks to innocuous sources, like failing water pumps.
~Steve
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Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
I have not dig into it yet to make sure. But I have a few things that I’m going to try and see first. I need to pull the valve covers and take a peek and I might do a compression test just for shits and giggles. Not sure what else I can do without pulling the oil pan and one of the heads.sseebart wrote: ↑Thu Aug 08, 2019 11:33 amWell, that sucks. Sorry to hear it. Probably best to know that the basics are sound before adding more horsepower.crashchoate wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 8:05 pm Well I also ran into a big problem. I believe that I’m gonna have to just go ahead and rebuild the motor. After all the testing and tuning with these new parts I have developed a knock. Which I believe to be a wrist pin. But I’m not sure so I believe I will be taking a break from the car. Try and rebuild it this winter.
That being said, have you gone through with a stethoscope to make sure it's a wrist pin? With other cars, I've traced awful-sounding knocks to innocuous sources, like failing water pumps.
~Steve
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Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
If you wanna delete that then you’ll have to source a different radiator. I believe there is a company that makes one. But it will cost more than the 215 mine did. Can’t remember the company’s name I was looking at.wallyblackburn wrote: ↑Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:31 amThanks. How hard would it be to get rid of that overflow tank, I wonder? Or at least tuck it outta the way. I mean mine - yours looks great ;)crashchoate wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 8:07 pmI purchased the radiator from Champion radiators. They have the best deal on it. So the fit and finish is great except for the two upper mounting bolts. They are in the wrong location.wallyblackburn wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 5:31 pm Where did you get the radiator? Any mods to make it fit?
I scanned the whole thread twice and didn't see - sorry if I just missed it.
Thanks,
Wally
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- Posts: 89
- Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:01 pm
Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
Question. Does anyone think you can have good oil pressure and have a bad main or rod Bearing. Just curious if I should just go ahead and pull the motor or pull the oil pan and check on things.
Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
Have a look in your oil and see if there is any metal shavings.
Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
A look at the oil is a good idea, but if it comes out clean, will that be enough to convince you that the motor is sound?
Pulling the pan is easier than removing the motor, but unless you're willing to pull off bearing caps while under the car, I'm not sure how much you'll see. Of course, with the bottom end partly disassembled, chances are you'll want the motor out of the car anyhow.
~Steve
Pulling the pan is easier than removing the motor, but unless you're willing to pull off bearing caps while under the car, I'm not sure how much you'll see. Of course, with the bottom end partly disassembled, chances are you'll want the motor out of the car anyhow.
~Steve
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Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
Something that I neglected to replace when I was getting new parts was the harmonic balancer. So after much discussion with my peeps I ordered a new one. If I remember correctly it did have some dry rotting in the rubber and maybe it’s causing the slight knock. The knock just doesn’t sound like its deep. So I’ll try and that see what happens. If that doesn’t work I’ll just go ahead and pull it soon.
Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
No, they dont spin bearings unless operated at VERY high RPM for extended periods, like circle track racing. Most of the perfromance builds for lighter cars (like Mustangs) use combinations that pull hard to 5500 or 6500 RPM or so. They survive fine. It was the racing eng's that turn 7K that would spin bearings. The side oiler fixed that problem.64ZCODE wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2019 12:47 pm Isn't the 390 fundamentally a low rpm torquer? I've also read some posts indicating that over revving these motors can spin the main bearings.
Here's a question: how many rpms is the engine turning at 60 mph? Assume a cruise-o-matic tranny in high gear and stock rear end gearing?
I'll have to check mine for RPM at 60 next time I drive it but I think it's 2000~2200?
Scott
EDIT: An on-line calculater says 2183 at 60 (assuming 215/75 R15 tires).
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 42 years. It was my folks car before that (second owners). VTCI # 12013.
Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
Other possibility. Do you have any ht leads in wrong place wrong cylinder?
Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
Agreed. Clean oil could hide other conditions. Take off a valve cover and see what's there. Evidence of blow-by and other crud?sseebart wrote: ↑Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:50 am A look at the oil is a good idea, but if it comes out clean, will that be enough to convince you that the motor is sound?
Pulling the pan is easier than removing the motor, but unless you're willing to pull off bearing caps while under the car, I'm not sure how much you'll see. Of course, with the bottom end partly disassembled, chances are you'll want the motor out of the car anyhow.
~Steve
Paul
VTCI 12014
Registry 45122
'64 Landau HT
"Beer, now there's a temporary solution!" ~Homer Simpson
VTCI 12014
Registry 45122
'64 Landau HT
"Beer, now there's a temporary solution!" ~Homer Simpson
Re: 1964 Thunderbird build
I have a 65 convertible and did pretty much the items with the exception my car sat in a barn since 1972. I bought in Feb 2018 I used a hydroboost from hydratech out of tennesee mounted directly to firewall for a master i used the the Baer Remaster pricey but it does work great. Camshaft is a 268H from comp cams went with a holley 600 and it seems to be more then enough. Motor on dyno was 350 @ 5000 rpm. Motor was built by Survival motorsport in Commerce Mi The experts on Ford Big Blocks
Car is still a work in progress but it pulls real strong
Fpa headers 3" in pipes with flomaster muffs
Good luck with. Your build
Car is still a work in progress but it pulls real strong
Fpa headers 3" in pipes with flomaster muffs
Good luck with. Your build