Brake and Selector Issues in a 66

[Clay Belt]

So recently I acquired a 1966 Thunderbird. It has an automatic transmission in it, but the selector on the column keeps skipping around. It has knocked itself into drive and reverse several times, and we are having problems with that. Any solutions? Also having trouble locating a replacement for the proportion valve and brake booster, both of which need to be replaced. Anyone know of a decent source?

[jtschug]

The shift lever is a common problem. Things to check:

1) Notch in the shift lever
2) Detent plate
3) Steering Column bushings
4) Transmission linkage

Definitely get it fixed. A lot of these cars have been damaged by rolling in park or reverse. As an extra measure, I think if you swing the wheel to the side when you get out (if that still works) it should hold the lever in park (assuming the linkage is good)

[RedBird64]

Until you correct the items listed above, slide the steering wheel over when ever you park and it will keep the shifter from moving around.
But do plan on replacing the guts of the column. It's not a bad job and you can buy all the parts on-line.

[stubbie]

Your best bet for brake booster would be to have it rebuilt. Just google "Booster Dewey Power Brake Booster Exchange". The proportioning valve you can get online at Summit Racing or Wilwood. I think the original 66 is adjustable. Not sure if you need to use that type anymore. Would have thought just a normal proportioning valve would be good enough. Check with Wilwood as there should be a metering valve employed somewhere in the system. On a 66 it may be in the master cylinder. Someone else maybe can help there.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/ ... alves.aspx

[cacockrum]

I just had the proportioning valve on my '66 rebuilt by White Post Restorations. They do a first-rate job which includes resleeving the cylinder and adjusting the valve to factory specs, and for what it's worth the work is guaranteed for life. You can find them on-line, or e-mail at info@whitepost.com, or phone at 540-837-1140.

[sseebart]

Congrats on your Thunderbird and welcome to the forum! The issues you're experiencing (sloppy shifter and a worn-out braking system) are very common and probably the subject of most folks first post. As redbird pointed out, quite a lot of parts are available online (I keep a short list here: http://thunderbird.seebart.org/resources)

No matter what your plans for the car, it's worthwhile going through the entire brake system, including the lines (both steel and rubber), wheel cylinders and calipers. It can be disappointing if the car doesn't drive, but downright terrifying if you can't make it stop.

Post a couple of photos when you get a chance--we all enjoy seeing a new bird in the flock.

~Steve

[Clay Belt]

Thanks for the advice! We went through the brakes in hopes of trying to take it around the block, that's how we found the leak in the proportion block and the bad booster. Didn't end up getting to drive it, which was a bummer. Would the steering column issues cause the car to not want to start?

[sseebart]

Yes. There's a safety switch to keep the car from starting unless it's in park or neutral. If the shift linkage is sloppy enough, the switch won't know you're in the proper gear. This is another item to fix before driving (or working under the hood with the motor running*).

~Steve

*Followed, potentially, by chasing the car down the driveway.

[RAVEN]

To answer your question "YES"
Welcome to the adventure of owning a "Bird"
Please understand, you have become an owner of a car which can be fun or a headache. AND to make it fun and avoid the headaches, the group will recommend that you purchase, all the manuals. This is not a sales pitch but a necessity, as the car was a technological advanced car of its day and has its own mind.
The most important one is the Shop Manual, along with as needed, "Osborne" assembly manuals.
Take some time and browse through the "Search" function, it can be your friend with some patience.

With a sloppy column/shifter detent, no start issues will pop up, as the Neutral start safety switch is part of the assembly.

Good luck.

[cacockrum]

I second Raven's suggestion that you pick up a shop manual and a set of Osborn's assembly manuals. The shop manual is good to read over even if you plan to have someone else do the work, and the assembly manuals are invaluable when time comes to put something back together.

On another topic, my '66 shop manual shows two designs for the neutral safety switch: one for the Curise-O-Matic where the switch is located on the steering column and is part of the emergency brake vacuum release mechanism, and another for the C6 where it is attached to the left side of the transmission case. I believe this situation only existed in '66 since Ford changed from the COM to the C6 somewhere towards the middle of that model year. So you might want to know which one you have before diving into the repairs. One easy way to find out is to look at the transmission. The bell housing on the C6 is integrated as a single piece with the rest of the transmission case while it is separate on the COM. Or you can look for the switch assembly with its wire harness on the side of the C6 transmission where the shift linkage enters the case.

[Clay Belt]

Got the manual, started the rebuild of the steering column. The selector lever is Rivited in place, however, and I cannot find a good way to replace it. Any suggestions?

[sseebart]

Got the manual, started the rebuild of the steering column. The selector lever is Rivited in place, however, and I cannot find a good way to replace it. Any suggestions?

The shift lever is held in the collar with a rolled pin, unless someone has done something very unusual with your car:



You'll need a punch to hammer it out. I've heard people say they were able to hammer theirs out while it was still in the car. Mine was stuck pretty good and needed to be on the bench were I could take a couple of good swings (without hitting the dashboard!). If you have it out, you'll need more padding than what you see in my photo; even with the towel there, I had some scarring underneath.

~Steve

[Alan H. Tast]

Be aware that the proper one to use is called a roll pin punch (IIRC). This has a straight shank, a small nub at the end and a flat area that allows the punch to seat in the center of the rolled pin. It's designed so that it will not spread out the end of the pin when hit. Regular punches with a tapered shaft and flat end tend to spread out the end of the pin - especially if the tip gets wedged inside the center of the pin, which is not what you want it to do.

Use the "Search" function at the upper corner of the page and use key words like " worn shift lever," "detent plate" and "brake booster rebuild" - these topics come up frequently as they're common issues.

[Alan H. Tast]

Be aware that the proper one to use is called a roll pin punch (IIRC). This has a straight shank, a small nub at the end and a flat area that allows the punch to seat in the center of the rolled pin. It's designed so that it will not spread out the end of the pin when hit. Regular punches with a tapered shaft and flat end tend to spread out the end of the pin - especially if the tip gets wedged inside the center of the pin, which is not what you want it to do.

Use the "Search" function at the upper corner of the page and use key words like " worn shift lever," "detent plate" and "brake booster rebuild" - these topics come up frequently as they're common issues.

[Richard]

Had same issue with shift lever. Did what was suggested by forum members. Sprayed some WD or other product for a couple of days and let soak..Take a 2x4 and notch out so it fits under column and to floor and drill hole so roll pin has somewhere to go... It came out very easy with the right punch that Alan suggested. Replaced with new shift lever and it put everything in line. Even helped sliding steering wheel which took a little effort to move and now perfect..Some people even had the levers gap welded instead of buying a new one.. Also get a new rubber bushing too.It took a little grease for it to go in. Good luck