Stupid lower control arm bushings

[Hillbillybuddha]

This is the last part I have to replace on my front suspension. I've been working on these damned things for 3 days. I'm afraid I'm going to bend the control arms.

MAPP gas
Hammer and chisel
PB Blaster
Freeze-off
Vise grips

I've tried them all

How do you get these off

[ABQTBird]

Do you have a large vise and an assortment of large sockets? You can use one as a pusher and a larger socket as a receiver. That is how I got mine out. You can also cut a piece of electrical conduit to fit in between the arms to keep them from pushing together. I don't have a picture of the actual removal but if you go here and scroll down, you can see the bushing removed. There is a picture there of the installation which I could have done more properly by installing the conduit, but it worked. http://www.vintagethunderbirdclub.net/p ... 32&t=11828

[Brushwolf]

I have taken out similar bushings in late fifties Fords using press with sockets as mentioned, but if it did not go out that way I would cut an inch chunk out of the entire middle of the bushing with a 4 1/2 inch cutting wheel or metal cutting chop saw (being careful not to cut the arm itself) and that way you should be able to press out half of it at a time (again using large socket on outside and a heavy duty bolt with nut and big strong washer(s) in the space made by removing the center). Messy but not likely to bend it that way as long as cuts are straight.

You could even remove the rubber from each side (burn it or drill around it) and then carefully use a hacksaw or air hacksaw to cut longtitudinal relief on inside of the bushing. (Again making sure not to cut the arm itself). I have done it that way before too and it is time-consuming, but it works..

Might be easier to just bring it to someone who is good with a hydraulic press and have them take out the old and install the new though. Your time got to be worth more than what that would cost... I might also be inclined to cut a piece of heavy bar stock or angle iron (say from an old bed frame) to use as an inside brace to keep the open side of the arm from bending when pressing in the new bushing if the fit is real tight.

Thanks ABKQ for posting that link with photos from your rebuild, since I just placed two orders for front suspension parts for my 62 last night..

[ABQTBird]

Thanks ABKQ for posting that link with photos from your rebuild, since I just placed two orders for front suspension parts for my 62 last night

Glad to be of help. I was a real newbie to the whole process, the most difficult part being what parts to order. But I now know that anyone with a reasonable set of tools can do it. As you did, I had to go to several suppliers to get everything I wanted.

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

This answers my question about Lower Control Arm Bushings. I agree: STUPID Lower Control Arm bushing...Ok, I think I will save this for a winter project.

[stevegintn]

Do you have a large vise and an assortment of large sockets? You can use one as a pusher and a larger socket as a receiver. That is how I got mine out. You can also cut a piece of electrical conduit to fit in between the arms to keep them from pushing together. I don't have a picture of the actual removal but if you go here and scroll down, you can see the bushing removed. There is a picture there of the installation which I could have done more properly by installing the conduit, but it worked. http://www.vintagethunderbirdclub.net/p ... 32&t=11828

Dang, Tom - that was an awesome 'how-to' pictorial!

(Geoff, Albuquerque is not too far from California? )

[ABQTBird]

Dang, Tom - that was an awesome 'how-to' pictorial!

Thank you. I meant to do one for the leaf springs, but for some reason I didn't. That would have been a good one.

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

The link provided is an EXCELLENT reference! just what I needed.....I guess I am just going to have to order the parts/bushings, and take a weekend from surfing to get this done.

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Ok, gentlemen, here we go:

Project: Replace L & R Lower Control Arm Bushing

Issue: See photo below



I ordered 2 LCA shaft bushings, part # 3069, from my preferred vendor

While I await, here is my first question:

Do I need to have this special tool T57P-3006-A as shown in the photo below and indicated in instruction 6 in Chapter 7, page 9 of the 1961 Shop Manual? This is to separate the lower ball joint from the control arm. I have also included Figure 2 from same manual depicting this tool. I did not see this used in the most excellent post by AQTB (Tom). Is this where he (you) were using the pickle fork on the lower ball joint?







The next question is do I have to remove the brake carrier plate from the spindle as indicated in instruction 3? If I disconnect from the lower ball joint, why would I have to remove the carrier plate? it's only held on my 4 nut/bolts, but it seems like it may be unnecessary.

Click on each image. I have yet to figure out how to post these pics in larger size. If you have the secret ingredient to this, please let me know.

Regards,

~g

[Karl]

G'day Geoff.
You will need some sort of a tool to help remove the ball joints.
If you undo the nuts of the ball joint and try to bash the taper out it will not happen. You can bash the threaded end of the where the nut goes onto and all you will do is damage something. Guaranteed !! In saying that, yes I have had the luck where they fell apart. If that happens one would think that there is something wrong with the tapers.

Years ago I have had success with using two hammers and swinging them at the same time together with the knuckle of where the taper goes into between the middle of the two hammers blows. If you time it right and the swing has enough force the taper will drop out. Unfortunately there probably is not enough room under the wheel arch to do this, and if you miss, something usually gets broken. Whether it is the car or a part of you body, something gets broken.
What you need is something to put pressure to push the taper apart and then all you need to do is give the knuckle a light tap with a hammer and this will spring the taper of the ball joint out of the socket.
Using the method in the manual or a pickle fork (which I have never used) will work. I did make my own tool up as per the manual and it works great. I made it up out of a piece of square mild steel bar, threaded in one end and used a large drill to make a indent in the other to hold it onto the other ball joint. As per the manual don't try to force the joint apart with the thread, just apply a reasonable amount of pressure with the thread and then tap the taper.
The beauty of this tools is that you can take both joints apart by undoing one ball joint nut slightly and when the joint is apart undo the other ball joint nut and do the same procedure.

With regards to the brake carrier plate, and I believe that 61-63 are the same, you have to take it off to have clearance to remove the lower arm. You can undo the three nuts and remove the bolts to hold the ball joint in but the lower arm won't come off because there is not enough room to take the lower arm away.
I haven't done it but you may be able to leave the shoes on the carrier plate and take the lot of at the same time. Or just loosen the nuts that hold the carrier plate on enough to give you enough clearance. If you are going to do that you may as well take the lot of to clean it all up.

Karl.

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Thanks, Karl. I really hope I am not stepping into something deep here....this weekend will be interesting!

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Hi guys:

Ok, so I am thinking I do not need to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, only need to disengage it from the wheel spindle. So, looking underneath the vehicle, after removing the brake control place, I should be able to remove the cotter pint and take off the ball joint stud nut, and then tap the stud nut out from the spindle. This may be problematic without taking off the brake control plate first, as the control arm extends into the wheel.

That's the logic. Does this sound realistic?

[Alan H. Tast]

Hi guys:

Ok, so I am thinking I do not need to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, only need to disengage it from the wheel spindle. So, looking underneath the vehicle, after removing the brake control place, I should be able to remove the cotter pint and take off the ball joint stud nut, and then tap the stud nut out from the spindle. This may be problematic without taking off the brake control plate first, as the control arm extends into the wheel.

That's the logic. Does this sound realistic?

You're not going to "tap" out the ball joint stud from the spindle. You're going to need to put pressure on it and push it out. Rent a ball joint press from a local parts store. What should work is a two-piece assembly that has a threaded body and a bolt that goes into it: the body should be able to cup the upper ball joint stud to position it, as should the bolt that will engage the lower ball joint stud. By turning the bolt and spreading the bolt and threaded body apart, you can put pressure on the lower stud, then at some point it will pop out - hitting the side of the spindle where the ball joint stud goes through will help to loosen it. You could also try a very small hydraulic ram/jack but I don't think you'll find one small enough to fit between the studs.

[Cliff Rankin]

When removing a ball joint never hit the threaded end. Remove the nut until it is almost off hit the side with a good size hammer
And a good hard solid smack several times
And it will come loose every time. If there is some pressure from the angle then it will help
And the nut will catch it.

[Karl]

Because the parts that you are trying to separate can never be supported properly on the car, randomly hitting a part often causes damage. That is why I personally like to use some sort of pressure. This doesn't actually do the work it just applies pressure, the hammer blow springs the two parts apart.
Karl.