defroster bezel of dashpad?

[raven63]

I've got my new dashpad fitted, but I'm concerned about the defroster slots . The pad seems to be recessed to fit the plastic bezels that hold the screen, but I can't find new ones. I cut out the originals but they are warped and I'm guessing they'll just deform the pad if I force them in.
Does anyone know if repros are made and if the dashpad will warp at the defrosters if i just glue it down without the bezels?
I'm thinking I may be able to use screen material to form in and around slots, and that'll help hold it's shape. Am I overthinking this? Thanks

[stove]

You are certainly not overthinking this. It is a major manufacturing flaw with these dash pads. The plastic frames are supposed to be embedded in the foam when the foam is cast. The other fun little feature about these repops is that virtually NO adhesive will bond to the foam, I tried everything to clean/prep it, and nothing worked. I ended up using 80 or 60 grit sandpaper on a vibratory palm sander, to break the "skin" of the foam, only then did the Landau Top Adhesive I wanted to use, began to marginally bite and bond. I will take some photos of the method I used to deal with the defroster vent blossoming issue. It did not really work that well, but I have a plan to improve upon the design of my "solution" which may help me.

The dash pad is otherwise fairly nicely made, and it is (like countless other repro items) such a shame that the company mass producing these for us dropped the ball so bad. And as a result we are ALL stuck with the same problems. I did call the MFG directly at the time of my initial dismay, hoping I may have gotten a defective item, but they just pulled the "we make thousand and never have any complaints" card. They couldn't even suggest an adhesive that would work with the foam that they use... "Any contact adhesive should work"... Well it don't!

So in short, YES the defroster slots will look horrible when you are done, or shortly after. If YOU have luck finding some magic adhesive that will bond properly to the foam, it would possibly end up being OK.

I'll post pics sometime this week!

Cheers!

[raven63]

Yikes!! I haven't cleaned it yet. Instructions say to use naptha and test with masking tape. Was that info available then?
I'm assuming you're talking about DAP or 3M the pros' use? Regular contact glue doesn't hold up, according to Google.
I've thought about crimping screen around edges and up into slot towards dash surface OR lay screen flat like factory and use spring, larger mesh to fill slot OR cut plastic bezel to use just to form around slot. I appreciate any ideas thrown my way.

[stove]

The Naptha/tape memo must be something new, and perhaps it works!? Also, yes, I actually purchased 5 gallons of the DAP Weldwood Landau Top Adhesive. But I also tried a volley of other HHR adhesives, prior to "opening up" the foam. I tried soap and water, brake parts cleaner, Bulldog adhesion promoter, SEM vinyl adhesion promoter, alcohol to name a few, for cleaning it.

[raven63]

Just an update, I called technical support and they recommend hot water and dish soap to clean and naptha to remove residue (or anything that will flash fast and not leave residue) to prep for dye. Prep underside by sanding/ scuff and a good (non-cali) trim glue to metal dash. Stove, you followed their process They also said there were no plans to reproduce bezels in the near future, due to low volume/ high start up costs. I also thought about a rigid foam cut to form around slots and fill recess. I'm going to see an upholsterer for ideas and I'll do some pics of my effort.

[tbird]

I will also replacing my 62 pad, at this point I have removed the old pad and cleaned up the metal frame then shelved it for the winter. It is now quite warm here and it is about time to get back at it, the replacement pad has been tried on the frame during the winter in my heated shop and fit very well in general other than it being a bit short in reaching the forward edge of the dash at the defrost openings. My thoughts on this problem is that if it sits out in the hot sun the foam and vinyl should soften and expand to the point that I hope it may fit as original.

This pad possibly may be a N.O.S. pad, what makes me think that is it is made with Tan vinyl and back at that time the reproductions only came in Black and had obviously been in a box stored for some time. I bought this off ebay in the late 90's when there was lot's of N.O.S listed for about the same dollars as a repop. There is no markings to indicate whom manufactured it but neither could I find any thing on the original.

Glad to see some info posted on the experience that you fellows are having, could you post a scan of the instructions that you have with your pad raven 63 this could make a useful article for the tech section further down the forum.

[raven63]

More info and pics. Also note that defrosters line up in metal frame but when you cut openings, they're not centered. So I'll definitely have to firm up the walls of slot.
https://postimg.org/image/aa4o7fuu1/

image of instructions sent with dashpad

https://postimg.org/image/yevqeajfd/

[tbird]

Raven63
Thanks for posting the instructions that came with you dash, they deal with the finished side of the dash to prep for Vinyl die so the foam side will have to be dealt with also. I would have thought that using the mold release cleaning products on the foam would work to get it ready for gluing.

I started to look at the fitting for my dash pad this morning had a really good sun no clouds and it was close to 28 C or 85 F at 9:00 am, only took about 15 minutes and the dash cover grew enough to fit properly on the metal form. The frame used to support the defrost opening are another issue have had the same issues that you and stove have been going through it does not fit the way it should and the defrost opening in the vinyl dash pad is much to narrow to glue to the frame as the original was.

Have either of you referred to the pad installation instructions in the Jim Osborne Body Assembly Manual? According to it there is very few place in the middle of the dash more or less just the openings and edges get glue which appears to be some kind of contact cement, sure wish we could I.D. all the Ford part numbers they use for adhesives and sealers.

[raven63]

I don't have that manual, but I did remove old glue from around speaker grill, radio mount and the curved undersides of dash. I believe that was the factory method because the front edge(windshield) was stapled through metal/tack strip underneath.
I'm now thinking I'll fill defroster recess with foam, maybe expanding type, and shave to shape. Looking to form up rain gutter mesh to hold slots to shape, then glue down pad around defrosters. I've also noticed in air pockets of underside there's a skin/layer, when peeled back, exposes foam. So far naptha, acetone and urethane reducer didn't remove silicone, so I may peel back in glued areas. I'll try sanding first.

[tbird]

Keep me posted on your progress and what you use for glue.The original defroster opening had sufficient extra vinyl formed down into the openings to allow it to be glued into the inside of the plastic that was embedded into the underside of the opening. Some of the plastic forms also had a angled screw receiver boss on the center of the opening and there was a elongated hole in the metal form of the opening to allow a screw to be driven from the underside of the dash into this. The Jim Osborne manuals show this screw in the 62/63 but it is not shown in the 61 version, the one I am doing is a 62 and jim Wulf has two late 62/63 pads which one has the type for the angled screws and the other does not. There should also be two little spring clips placed in to the defroster opening across the bottom of the vinyl slot to help in keeping the slot open.