'62 front disc brake upgrade

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PaulS
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2014 9:08 pm

'62 front disc brake upgrade

Post by PaulS »

I am attempting the front disc conversion as well on my '62. I just received my Auto City basic kit and it came complete with the nubs on the calipers that need to be cut/ground. (thanks for the heads up, your PDF will be my bible for the next few weeks....).
My next step is to order up the 9" booster, dual MC, proportioning valve and residual valve. I know which prop and residual valves I'm getting but I'm faltering a little bit on ordering up the SSBC booster and MC.
Does anyone have a SSBC part number for the 9" booster they used? So many websites are not clear wether the one they are selling is single or dual diaphragm.
Same for the MC, websites are often unclear as to the size of the holes that come out of the MC and I want to order up the matching prop. valve.
Has anyone ordered a combination kit of booster and MC ?
I know these are small questions and I should really just ball up and start ordering stuff but I hate to lose time because I ordered the wrong thing.
Any guidance would be appreciated......
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redstangbob
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Post by redstangbob »

If your master cylinder was originally a disc/drum unit, it may have a residual valve already in it. good luck, Bob C
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novanutcase
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Re: '62 front disc brake upgrade

Post by novanutcase »

I am attempting the front disc conversion as well on my '62. I just received my Auto City basic kit and it came complete with the nubs on the calipers that need to be cut/ground. (thanks for the heads up, your PDF will be my bible for the next few weeks....).
My next step is to order up the 9" booster, dual MC, proportioning valve and residual valve. I know which prop and residual valves I'm getting but I'm faltering a little bit on ordering up the SSBC booster and MC.
Does anyone have a SSBC part number for the 9" booster they used? So many websites are not clear wether the one they are selling is single or dual diaphragm.
Same for the MC, websites are often unclear as to the size of the holes that come out of the MC and I want to order up the matching prop. valve.
Has anyone ordered a combination kit of booster and MC ?
I know these are small questions and I should really just ball up and start ordering stuff but I hate to lose time because I ordered the wrong thing.
Any guidance would be appreciated......
If you are adventurous enough you may want to look into installing a late model hydroboost system instead of the stock booster unit. I think it was Graeme that did the conversion and he loves it. Lot's of clamping power along with having some brake pedal even when the engine shuts off since the unit has a reservoir.

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Treozen
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Location: Auburn, WA

Post by Treozen »

Hey -

So on the 9" booster, you want to use a single diaphragm unit. Dual Diaphragm units are usually longer and have a visible step-down from back to front.

Example single diaphragm 9" unit:

http://ts3.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.6080393 ... =1&pid=1.7

Equivalent dual diaphragm unit:
http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.6080287 ... =1&pid=1.7

The reason you want to go single, is that its unlikely you will have room for the longer dual diaphragm unit and the master cylinder. With the single 9" unit and the corvette style MC, I have just a hair of space before I'd hit the shock tower. If you can find a short MC that still supports at least front disk, rear drum, then you may be able to fit the Dial diaphragm unit.
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Mr-Mach1
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Joined: Fri May 10, 2013 11:23 am

Post by Mr-Mach1 »

I'm ready to install 4 wheel disc on my 62 and would like to know the factory application for the booster as posted pics can be deceiving. To me a mustang booster looks right as it has the four mounting studs and the eyelet on the push rod. Plan on using a CCP master as tbey say it was a lower profile. Any one know for sure?
PaulS
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Post by PaulS »

Thanks for the links and the visual difference. I thought that was the case but now I'm sure. Time to get a cracking. I'll just be happy to have brakes again and a dual MC I had a wheel cylinder blow 100 miles out on the way to a car show and my foot went to the floor. I would like to avoid that in the future :smile:
Mr-Mach1
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Post by Mr-Mach1 »

PaulS wrote:Thanks for the links and the visual difference. I thought that was the case but now I'm sure. Time to get a cracking. I'll just be happy to have brakes again and a dual MC I had a wheel cylinder blow 100 miles out on the way to a car show and my foot went to the floor. I would like to avoid that in the future :smile:
Your foot will still go to the floor if you spring a leak. You'll have a little brake left compared to no brakes with the single.
edpol
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Post by edpol »

Your foot will still go to the floor if you spring a leak. You'll have a little brake left compared to no brakes with the single.
Bingo. Even with a combination valve that's supposed to cut off a circuit with no pressure, your foot goes to the floor and there's very little braking power. Happened to me more than once.
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Rogue
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Post by Rogue »

Happened to me more than once.
You likely couldn't say that if it was a jelly jar single M/C. :shock:
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novanutcase
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Post by novanutcase »

Thanks for the links and the visual difference. I thought that was the case but now I'm sure. Time to get a cracking. I'll just be happy to have brakes again and a dual MC I had a wheel cylinder blow 100 miles out on the way to a car show and my foot went to the floor. I would like to avoid that in the future :smile:
Hence one more reason that a late model Hydroboost makes sense...

John
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Mr-Mach1
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Post by Mr-Mach1 »

novanutcase wrote:
Thanks for the links and the visual difference. I thought that was the case but now I'm sure. Time to get a cracking. I'll just be happy to have brakes again and a dual MC I had a wheel cylinder blow 100 miles out on the way to a car show and my foot went to the floor. I would like to avoid that in the future :smile:
Hence one more reason that a late model Hydroboost makes sense...

John
Cant argue with how it works but it looks like a lot of work to install it :)
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ozbird
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Post by ozbird »

Cant argue with how it works but it looks like a lot of work to install it :)
It is a lot of work but...you only live once!!

My hydroboost is really good now, I had the 1 1/8" master cylinder but after locking up the wheels easily once to often I changed to a 1" master which is not as aggressive. Stops just as well but with more feel, more like a modern braking system.


Graeme :mrgreen:
1962 Hardtop - in Melbourne, Australia
edpol
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Post by edpol »

Even with hydroboost, a blowout in the system will leave you with very little braking power. In those situations, the booster is still working, whether its hydro or vaccuum boost.
Hydroboost does however, give you braking power if the engine shuts off.
Mr-Mach1
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Post by Mr-Mach1 »

So does anyone have an application for the booster?
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Rogue
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Post by Rogue »

So Paul, did you get this done?
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