Hi All,
I have a '64 with an alternator and a voltage regulator. I would like to covert it to a single wire, internally regulated alternator. I found this beauty at Ecklers (please see link below) and I was curious if anyone has performed this and more importantly, how to re-wire to make it work.
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
https://www.ecklers.com/1955-1979-ford- ... lsrc=aw.ds
1964 - Single Wire Alternator Conversion
Moderator: redstangbob
Re: 1964 - Single Wire Alternator Conversion
Be very careful when changing the alternator on a 1964.
Probably should continue this conversation on the "modified" forum.
Probably should continue this conversation on the "modified" forum.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Re: 1964 - Single Wire Alternator Conversion
My bad - sorry - didn't see the modified forum. How do I move the conversation over? Thanks
- Alan H. Tast
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Re: 1964 - Single Wire Alternator Conversion
Done.
Alan H. Tast, AIA, LEED AP
Technical Director/VTCI Forum Administrator/Past President,
Vintage Thunderbird Club Int'l.
Author, "Thunderbird 1955-1966" & "Thunderbird 50 Years"
1963 Hardtop & 1963 Sports Roadster
Technical Director/VTCI Forum Administrator/Past President,
Vintage Thunderbird Club Int'l.
Author, "Thunderbird 1955-1966" & "Thunderbird 50 Years"
1963 Hardtop & 1963 Sports Roadster
Re: 1964 - Single Wire Alternator Conversion
So on a 1964, Ford routed all the power from the alternator through the AMP gauge on the dash. Everything was fine when it was new, but a little corrosion build up in the wire connections, and some electrical resistance forms, and electrical resistance coupled with electric current = heat. Even a small amount of resistance can make enough heat to melt wires and worse. If you add a alternator that can make more amps, then it can make the problem worse.
One way to avoid this danger is to take the amp gauge out of the circuit. Take the wires attached to the B+ terminal on the alternator and wrap the connectors in an insulator, like heat shrink tube, or something safe like that. Tuck it somewhere safe and don't use it. Replace this with 4 Gauge heavy duty cable that can handle 100 amps. Connect this to the same post on the starter solenoid as the positive battery cable. Safety says you should include some kind of fusing provision just in case the alternator develops an internal short. I used two 10 AWG fusible links in parallel from the 4-gauge cable to the B+ terminal on the new alternator.
I'm not familiar with this particular alternator, but hook up the other wires as the instructions say. Also add some extra grounding.
One way to avoid this danger is to take the amp gauge out of the circuit. Take the wires attached to the B+ terminal on the alternator and wrap the connectors in an insulator, like heat shrink tube, or something safe like that. Tuck it somewhere safe and don't use it. Replace this with 4 Gauge heavy duty cable that can handle 100 amps. Connect this to the same post on the starter solenoid as the positive battery cable. Safety says you should include some kind of fusing provision just in case the alternator develops an internal short. I used two 10 AWG fusible links in parallel from the 4-gauge cable to the B+ terminal on the new alternator.
I'm not familiar with this particular alternator, but hook up the other wires as the instructions say. Also add some extra grounding.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible (Emberglo / White-Emberglo)
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
Modified 428 - stroked, rollercam, aluminum top end, headers
Livermore, CA
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