'57 complete exhaust system setup

[Oiseau DeTonnere]

(Wanted to post this last night, but realized I couldn't post a PDF. Also because I was getting a lot of error messages. Hopefully this works)

Success! Finished up the installation last evening, waited until the morning to tighten up a few last things and do a final check. Got a stepladder and got into the car (it’s still on the lift!) turned the key to on, heard the fuel pump and the injectors fire up, waited my usual 30 seconds or so and hit start… Vroom!

Wow, the sound is so much better! Quieter, smoother. It now sounds like it should in my opinion. Happy about that.

So, the pipes are finally hung (well hung?)... Unfortunately I wish I could say that mounting them was a good experience - but it definitely was NOT. This mainly because one of the pipes was not fabricated to correct specs, and most of the joints were too tight. Sorry, CASCO. It took me twice as long as I figured it should. I have chronicled my experience for any who might interested, but I will attach it as a PDF (no, PNG) here to avoid a 3-page post.

Now back to resolving the other issues – specifically the transmission leak, which has not stopped, and seeing if I can indeed mount the rear sway bar – which is what started this whole dive down the rabbit hole. But that for later.

[MarkR]

Mitch, Glad you are done with the install and are happy with your results. I read your account and I say “your” results because you had to redesign and refabricate the right side. Sorry to hear that. Please send your article to Casco and let them know. It’s unacceptable. I know they do not want to sell parts like that. Very few owners could do what you had to do in their home shops.
Also consider having your experience published in the Early Bird. Well written and would be a help to others.

[ICON 1956]

Well documented Mitch, This should be submitted in the VTCI bi monthly.

[Oiseau DeTonnere]

Mitch, Glad you are done with the install and are happy with your results. I read your account and I say “your” results because you had to redesign and refabricate the right side. Sorry to hear that. Please send your article to Casco and let them know. It’s unacceptable. I know they do not want to sell parts like that. Very few owners could do what you had to do in their home shops.
Also consider having your experience published in the Early Bird. Well written and would be a help to others.

Thanks Mark - am in the process of documenting (have a few photos) and will send to CASCO over the weekend. Didn't have the energy today.

[Rusty57]

Hi Mitch,

Thanks for the documentation. Glad that you are please with the results. I followed a similar process.

In my case is was not able to get the outlet of the resonator pipe to align with the inlet for the rear exhaust pipe on the right side. I determined that there was something not quite right with the inlet pipe for the resonator section. The best I could determine is that the inlet pipe was not "clocked" correctly when it was welded to the front inlet on the resonator.

I know this sounds crazy but I was able to make an appropriate adjustment using a bottle jack wedged between the front face of the resonator and the front end of that inlet pipe. I basically took out some of the bend. Then everything lined up.

I do still have to make some type of adjustment to lower the front end of the left resonator about 1/4" to 3/8". It hits the underbody on big bumps. One idea I have is to drop the rear muffler clamp/hanger sightly.

I agree that I would never have even tried this project without a lift.

If I did this again I would considering use the pipes without resonators. For my taste the exhaust sound is maybe a little too quiet. Plus it might be easier to fit things together without the resonator bodies.

[1957Birdman]

When I did my exhaust system I got mine from Prestige Thunderbird. I got the aluminized pipes and mufflers without the resonators. I really can’t see how much difference having the resonators would have made because my car is not loud at all.
One other thing I did was to fit exhaust turndowns on the end pipes so that the exhaust exits before the bumper. Some people don’t like this but it keeps your bumper from getting black and the way I mounted the turndowns it is not obvious that I made that change.
I think the aluminized system is an excellent way to go if you don’t want to pay a premium for stainless steel. I have had the system on my car for at least 15 years and all is well with no sign of rust.
Lew Bachman
1957 Colonial White

[Oiseau DeTonnere]

When I did my exhaust system I got mine from Prestige Thunderbird. I got the aluminized pipes and mufflers without the resonators. I really can’t see how much difference having the resonators would have made because my car is not loud at all.
One other thing I did was to fit exhaust turndowns on the end pipes so that the exhaust exits before the bumper. Some people don’t like this but it keeps your bumper from getting black and the way I mounted the turndowns it is not obvious that I made that change.
I think the aluminized system is an excellent way to go if you don’t want to pay a premium for stainless steel. I have had the system on my car for at least 15 years and all is well with no sign of rust.
Lew Bachman
1957 Colonial White

The CASCO non-stainless pipes are aluminized. I sanded off the coating locally to weld the parts together as well as around the hole where I welded in the FI bung. I think pretty much all non-stainless exhaust pipes are aluminized these days. The raw tubes were made by Atlantic Tube & Steel in Canada, it's stamped on the pipes. https://atlantictube.com/ They appear to be one of the largest north American manufacturers of exhaust tubing among other things. I have no idea who actually bends and assembles the pipe sets for the T-Birds though. The mufflers also said "Made in Canada" on the box, but no brand name on the parts. The pipes I took off the car were also aluminized, they had virtually no rust on them either except where they were abraded or welded.

The resonators have to change the sound at least somewhat or they wouldn't be on there. They are straight-thru's as far as I can tell, but that still should quiet the system some. The previous system on my car was loud and raw, but the mufflers weren't original either, who knows what they used, maybe they were even designed to be louder.

In my case is was not able to get the outlet of the resonator pipe to align with the inlet for the rear exhaust pipe on the right side. I determined that there was something not quite right with the inlet pipe for the resonator section. The best I could determine is that the inlet pipe was not "clocked" correctly when it was welded to the front inlet on the resonator.

I know this sounds crazy but I was able to make an appropriate adjustment using a bottle jack wedged between the front face of the resonator and the front end of that inlet pipe. I basically took out some of the bend. Then everything lined up.

I do still have to make some type of adjustment to lower the front end of the left resonator about 1/4" to 3/8". It hits the underbody on big bumps. One idea I have is to drop the rear muffler clamp/hanger sightly.

I agree that I would never have even tried this project without a lift.

If I did this again I would considering use the pipes without resonators. For my taste the exhaust sound is maybe a little too quiet. Plus it might be easier to fit things together without the resonator bodies.

Looks like their right side setup is wrong. For me it was simply easier to get a correct alignment by cutting and welding. If you want to remove the resonators, I believe they sell the complete rear pipes (2 parts each side) separately - they would be the same as the 292's I guess. I have no idea why Ford thought it was necessary or desirable to put resonators only on the 312's - does anyone?

The left side isn't absolutely perfect either, at the rear end the "squish" part that goes into the deflector at the bumper ends up rotated about 10° CCW from the horizontal.

There are manufacturers that sell exhaust tubing in all common diameters in both straight lengths plus varying degrees of elbows with pre-formed spigots, as well as joints, flexible sections and clamps - so it's possible to create virtually any shape on your own if you are really into it.

[Rusty57]

I used the aluminized system. I expect it will outlive me!

Our car had a somewhat cobbled-up system with no resonators but what appeared to be stock size mufflers. I liked the slightly greater noise level. It was a good quality sound (lower rumble) and not obviously loud.

I am debating if i want to buy the non-resonator pipes but will leave it as is for now. I seem to be way too busy with other things and am not getting the time I want on the '57.

[55blacktie]

The exhaust system on my 55 appeared to be stock, but I wouldn't say it was quiet; maybe the rusted-out pipes had something to do with it. Anyway, I don't want to restrict the exhaust, but I don't want it to be loud either. I've purchased Borla 2 1/4-inch Pro XS mufflers and their 2 1/4-inch resonators. I intend to have Bob's Muffler in Bakersfield make 2 1/4-inch mandrel-bent pipes all the way back, but I don't know whether to put the mufflers under the floor in the stock location or move them back to where 56/57 resonators would be. Moving the mufflers to the rear should help to keep the floor cooler, and most recommendations are for putting the resonators in front of the mufflers, not behind, as found on 56/57 models.

The Pro XS mufflers are supposed to be quiet for straight-thru mufflers; hopefully, the resonators will make them quieter still, without being a restriction. Whatever the outcome will be, I will have to live with it.

[ward 57]

I would just stick with the original configuration and heat shields on the mufflers in original configuration. Less complications down the road and a known sound outcome at the end.

[ward 57]

When I did my exhaust system I got mine from Prestige Thunderbird. I got the aluminized pipes and mufflers without the resonators. I really can’t see how much difference having the resonators would have made because my car is not loud at all.
One other thing I did was to fit exhaust turndowns on the end pipes so that the exhaust exits before the bumper. Some people don’t like this but it keeps your bumper from getting black and the way I mounted the turndowns it is not obvious that I made that change.
I think the aluminized system is an excellent way to go if you don’t want to pay a premium for stainless steel. I have had the system on my car for at least 15 years and all is well with no sign of rust.
Lew Bachman
1957 Colonial White

The CASCO non-stainless pipes are aluminized. I sanded off the coating locally to weld the parts together as well as around the hole where I welded in the FI bung. I think pretty much all non-stainless exhaust pipes are aluminized these days. The raw tubes were made by Atlantic Tube & Steel in Canada, it's stamped on the pipes. https://atlantictube.com/ They appear to be one of the largest north American manufacturers of exhaust tubing among other things. I have no idea who actually bends and assembles the pipe sets for the T-Birds though. The mufflers also said "Made in Canada" on the box, but no brand name on the parts. The pipes I took off the car were also aluminized, they had virtually no rust on them either except where they were abraded or welded.

The resonators have to change the sound at least somewhat or they wouldn't be on there. They are straight-thru's as far as I can tell, but that still should quiet the system some. The previous system on my car was loud and raw, but the mufflers weren't original either, who knows what they used, maybe they were even designed to be louder.

In my case is was not able to get the outlet of the resonator pipe to align with the inlet for the rear exhaust pipe on the right side. I determined that there was something not quite right with the inlet pipe for the resonator section. The best I could determine is that the inlet pipe was not "clocked" correctly when it was welded to the front inlet on the resonator.

I know this sounds crazy but I was able to make an appropriate adjustment using a bottle jack wedged between the front face of the resonator and the front end of that inlet pipe. I basically took out some of the bend. Then everything lined up.

I do still have to make some type of adjustment to lower the front end of the left resonator about 1/4" to 3/8". It hits the underbody on big bumps. One idea I have is to drop the rear muffler clamp/hanger sightly.

I agree that I would never have even tried this project without a lift.

If I did this again I would considering use the pipes without resonators. For my taste the exhaust sound is maybe a little too quiet. Plus it might be easier to fit things together without the resonator bodies.

Looks like their right side setup is wrong. For me it was simply easier to get a correct alignment by cutting and welding. If you want to remove the resonators, I believe they sell the complete rear pipes (2 parts each side) separately - they would be the same as the 292's I guess. I have no idea why Ford thought it was necessary or desirable to put resonators only on the 312's - does anyone?

The left side isn't absolutely perfect either, at the rear end the "squish" part that goes into the deflector at the bumper ends up rotated about 10° CCW from the horizontal.

There are manufacturers that sell exhaust tubing in all common diameters in both straight lengths plus varying degrees of elbows with pre-formed spigots, as well as joints, flexible sections and clamps - so it's possible to create virtually any shape on your own if you are really into it.

CASCO has been building exhaust systems for years but I don't think anyone has calibrated their jig in some time. I let them know mine was a little off but I'm seeing more that have the same experience. Hopefully some bell ringing will let them know that their usual excellent product output has gone a little astray and a closer look is required.