On this particular prop valve, the inside of the housing seems pretty clean, maybe just a hone is needed. If not, it can be bored and sleeved. The real problem is the piston itself. I haven't replaced any seals yet but I've got a new seal kit. I'm thinking seals won't keep this one from leaking. Available info doesn't state anything about the condition of the piston, but I am needing assistance from someone who has the know-how...is this piston done? Thanks, for looking.
Paul
VTCI 12014
Registry 45122
'64 Landau HT
"Beer, now there's a temporary solution!" ~Homer Simpson
Paul, while the piston shows some corrosion spots, it the seals and the smoothness of the cylinder wall that keeps it from leaking. As your probably aware these valves are difficult to find so repair is usually the best option.
When mine was leaking I took it all apart, honed the cylinder and used a seal kit from one of the vendors. That worked for a while but even when I was installing the seal I noticed how thin they were compared to the original. When it started seeping again a few months later I went to a local brake & clutch shop and had them compared and sell me new seals, they were more money but a huge difference in the meat of the seal, still with the same ID and OD that I needed. I reassemble with those and haven't have a problem since.
I tried new seals in mine a few years back but it was too far gone and still leaked. I fitted a Wilwood universal adjustable one. No one would notice it wasn't original being as it's so well hidden.
I am trying to remove the prop valve on my 65. Having a really hard time trying to get to it. Any advise?? I’m sure I’ll have to remove the master cyl. (It’s empty anyway) I really don’t want to remove the power steering hose as I just replaced the fluid. Please advise when you can
ScooterJazz wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2024 4:21 pm
I am trying to remove the prop valve on my 65. Having a really hard time trying to get to it. Any advise?? I’m sure I’ll have to remove the master cyl. (It’s empty anyway) I really don’t want to remove the power steering hose as I just replaced the fluid. Please advise when you can
Removing the "skirts" behind the left tire will need to be done to get at the bolt holding it on. putting it back on has its own problems, worthy of a drink or two and some swear words. I just noticed you are doing a 65, mine is a 66, don't know if the 65 and 66 are in the same place, if the same with the 66 the brake booster need not be removed.
ScooterJazz wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2024 4:21 pm
I am trying to remove the prop valve on my 65. Having a really hard time trying to get to it. Any advise?? I’m sure I’ll have to remove the master cyl. (It’s empty anyway) I really don’t want to remove the power steering hose as I just replaced the fluid. Please advise when you can
I was able to change the proportioning valve on my old 1965 without removing the power steering hose. I think the master cyl was probably in place too, because I didn't originally plan on replacing the prop valve. I managed to do it by reaching over the fender with one hand and into the wheel well with my the other, but it wasn't easy. Definitely would be easier if the inner fender panel was removed. Mine was covered with so much tar and gunk that I I didn't want to mess with that.
-Patrick
1966 Town Hardtop
VTCI #12691
Past Birds: 1986 Turbo Coupe 5-speed, 1965 Convertible
I can't speak to your specific problem, but on my 64 (I assume the inner fender panels are the same), removing the panel wasn't difficult. Have a look at the bolt pattern in the Osbourne Body manual and you will see it's not really a difficult job. Digging the gunk off is straight forward, it seems to chip off more than peel, and there are not that many bolts. There are a couple that go to threaded plates on the top side that on mine that just spun, but someone else to hold them with vice grips solved it.
Makes all work down there from changing the rag joint to fittings on the steering box so much easier. I think access to the proportioning valve would be the same.
