MOOG coil spring Compressor

[DK Morris]

Hello, I'm rebuilding the front suspension on my 64' and I'm in need of a good coil spring compressor, preferably the Moog compressor set, as I have tried other types and they just can't handle the job without a number of problems arising during the process. Ford made a OEM tool which works well, pulling evenly up from the center. The MOOG would be my choice, if anyone knows of a set for sale or even to rent, with a value deposit, I would very much appreciate it Thank you, Doug

[Rusty57]

With a dual arm suspension like on your TBird I have had safe and successful results with a simple home made tool.

I use a length of 1/2” threaded rod, a couple of small square steel plates/bars, and 3 nuts. I lock 2 nuts on one end and hold them in place so I know that the rod will not turn. I remove the shock and insert that rod through the shock mounting location. I use a flat ratcheting wrench to turn the single nut to compress the spring. I disconnect the ball joints with the spring compressed. On some cars you can also remove the lower inner arm pivots at that time.

Then while you loosen the nut the whole lower arm drops as the spring load is released.

[jtschug]

Are you near the Bay Area?

[DK Morris]

I live in Chandler , AZ

[maw]

Rusty could you post a pic of your setup. I'm not clear on the plates or square washers

[Rusty57]

Ok. I found it!

Somewhere along the way I bought the “inside the spring” compressor. We tried it on a 1965 TR4A. It was too large to fit inside the spring so we went back to my homemade tool. I also used the” inside the spring tool” on the rear springs for a 1970 Monte Carlo. It worked but we had to make a spacer so the operating length fit the application.

For some reason I could only find one of the steel plates. I bought them at Menard’s, our “do it to yourself” building products store. It is the plate that you put on top of a sill plate where the anchor bolts come through.

Whatever compressor you use I need to clarify how I loosen the ball joints. I let the suspension hang so the spring load is pushing on the lower arm. Then I loosen the nut on each ball joint about 2 turns. If the threads and nut are really grimy I will back the nut off until half the nut is above the end of the stud. That will make it easier to remove the nut when the stud is no longer tight in t(e spindle. Then run the nut back down until it is about 2 turns loose.

I use a 2 pound hammer to hit the side of the spindle forging at the ball joint stud. Sometimes I will back that with a heavy iron block or sledge hammer on the other side of the spindle housing. That should shock things enough to let the stud pop out of the hole in the spindle. Do that for both the top and bottom ball joint.

Then use your spring compressor to continue the process.