engine bay questions

[bcox26]

Thanks for all the information,

Scott,
I have looked at the Eastwood product and I thought it was too dark. I will try to duplicate the original color from your photos. Plating services are rather scarce around here so I will go with paint option. I am aware about painted surfaces. I painted a lot of the engine compartment on my 66 Town Hardtop years ago. I am powder coating this time around on 66 convertible. The paint does not look bad it just does not hold up as well.

Terry64HT,
The hinges on my convertible were "repaired" by the previous owner so I had them professionally done, and boy are they tight!

Raven, I am sending you a PM.

Thanks all

Buddy

[Terry64HT]

During the "repair", it's very difficult to get the alignment exactly right because there are no reference points. Before reinstalling them, it's a good idea to elongate the mounting holes a bit on the top side so the hinge can be positioned a bit lower if needed. Almost all the repaired hinges I have seen seem to sit against the mounting bolt on the top side of the slot.
Terry
64HT

[ELTBIRD]

Here is the ratty stuff on my bird now, falling apart, probably original and a pic of the replacement insulation I just received from Paf Wilson.

[Scott6T6]

Hello ED,
All of your hood insulation is the factory installed pieces. I highly recommend you not remove the two narrow outer pieces of hood insulation. Those were molded and have a domed profile. It is quite unusual to see those two outer pieces still in place and fully intact as yours still are. I'd call it a kind of a "badge of honor" like an untouched original spare tire.
The reproduction two narrow outer pieces (like the rest) are stamped from a flat sheet and are clearly different than the original ones.
If you feel you must remove those two outer pieces, please try to do it carefully so as not to damage them in the process, so they are preserved.
I would even be willing to buy them from you if you have no interest in keeping them! NOS ones are non-existent and decent used ones are impossible to find.
The '66 ones are unique in design and differ from the '64/'65 outer pieces.
Scott

[ELTBIRD]

Wow...thanks Scott, I didn't know any of this! The outer pieces are actually in good shape. The worst is the big center peice but just the outer layers. You have me thinking now about not replacing any of it and find a good hi temp glue to hold it together. Then mask it good before I clean and paint the rest. On another note, I found and ordered original exact reproduction FoMoCo battery cables today. Also ordered the correct Fan Caution decal (thanks Alan). It annoys me that you spend money for a decal kit and some are totally different than the original. I'm venting now...Lastly, when I got the car last year, the original water valve was leaking. Got another original used one that I put in over the winter. Noticed yesterday...drip, drip. This afternoon I tightened hoses, removed, reinstalled. Still drip drip. Frustrating! I gave up and installed an aftermarket valve. No leak. All good except I wanted an original FoMoCo valve. It's Miller time. Are the originals notorious for leaking?

[ELTBIRD]

Leaky water valve pic.

[ELTBIRD]

Battery cables pic

[Scott6T6]

Ed,

I think your factory installed hood insulation remains in really good condition. I totally support you keeping it. 3M Super Trim Adhesive - 08090, is what I recommend for the job. It looks just like the adhesive Ford used to secure the insulation. It's yellow in color, it sprays on in a lacey pattern and it really does a great job of adhering the hood insulation in place. It shouldn't be too difficult removing your original hood insulation if you're planning on re-painting the underside of the hood. They typically didn't use a lot of adhesive at the factory to secure the insulation. Try using a plastic 'bondo' spreader to separate the insulation from the hood surface. Use extra care with the two narrow outer pieces as those are irreplaceable and the easiest to damage.

Bummer about your heater water control valve. Having the OEM FoMoCo valve is cool. I've never heard of these valves being notorious for leaking. Funny you should mention the water control valve as I was just at my gals home today taking photos of the original water control valve in her '64 to use for documentation in the OFS revision! Yes, that's the factory installed valve and it still functions properly and doesn't leak. Here's one of the photos I took this afternoon.

Kevin Marti's battery cables are a real nice reproduction of the originals. I actually supplied Kevin with a used original C4SF-14300-B, 1964 - '66 positive battery cable back in about 1990, so he had an original to replicate when he was initially developing his reproduction battery cables.

Scott

[Scott6T6]

By the way, I think those decal kits are a waste of money. They often include many decals you shouldn't use and most, if not all of them are Jim Osborn reproductions. I will refrain from any disparaging comments, except to say there are far more accurate decals available out there if you simply purchase them individually.
The Autolite Spark Plug decal from ECS Automotive Concepts and the CAUTION FAN decal from either Wally Kent or Steve Ulrich are two perfect examples.

My advice to everyone - DON'T BUY THE DECAL KITS!!! There, I feel better now...

[Richard]

Hello ED,
All of your hood insulation is the factory installed pieces. I highly recommend you not remove the two narrow outer pieces of hood insulation. Those were molded and have a domed profile. It is quite unusual to see those two outer pieces still in place and fully intact as yours still are. I'd call it a kind of a "badge of honor" like an untouched original spare tire.
The reproduction two narrow outer pieces (like the rest) are stamped from a flat sheet and are clearly different than the original ones.
If you feel you must remove those two outer pieces, please try to do it carefully so as not to damage them in the process, so they are preserved.
I would even be willing to buy them from you if you have no interest in keeping them! NOS ones are non-existent and decent used ones are impossible to find.
The '66 ones are unique in design and differ from the '64/'65 outer pieces.
Scott

My 65 has the original hood insulation. Not in the best shape but certainly acceptable. The side pieces were loose and used some Gorilla Glue spray from Home Depot and works well..

[RAVEN]

Just so it is known, there are 3 different FAN decals for the period of late 63 thru to early 67, in my investigation to recreate these decals. All are basically the same except for the lower right corner, and the "Made in the U.S.A." badging.
Late Late 63 - to 64 NO I.D. of the Made in the USA letters
64 MY "NO" Made in USA letters
Late Late 64 - early 65 Orange "Made In the U>S>A. letters
65 MY was Orange
Late Late 65 in to 66 and then early 67 "Made in the U>S>A> in White letters
The transfer of colour change, dates are not cast in stone and can be argued when the decals actually shifted in colour.

When asked which decal to use I go with;

63/64 No Made in USA
65 Orange Made in USA
66/67 White Made in the USA
If someone can nail the transfer of colour and/or requests a specific decal then I supply same.

Another point is the change in 67 when the decal just said "Caution Fan" and was approx 1" by 3" in size and sat on the narrow fibreglass fan shrowd

Alan another rabbit hole to go down

[Alan H. Tast]

Just so it is known, there are 3 different FAN decals for the period of late 63 thru to early 67, in my investigation to recreate these decals. All are basically the same except for the lower right corner, and the "Made in the U.S.A." badging.
Late Late 63 - to 64 NO I.D. of the Made in the USA letters
64 MY "NO" Made in USA letters
Late Late 64 - early 65 Orange "Made In the U>S>A. letters
65 MY was Orange
Late Late 65 in to 66 and then early 67 "Made in the U>S>A> in White letters
The transfer of colour change, dates are not cast in stone and can be argued when the decals actually shifted in colour.

When asked which decal to use I go with;

63/64 No Made in USA
65 Orange Made in USA
66/67 White Made in the USA
If someone can nail the transfer of colour and/or requests a specific decal then I supply same.

Another point is the change in 67 when the decal just said "Caution Fan" and was approx 1" by 3" in size and sat on the narrow fibreglass fan shrowd

Alan another rabbit hole to go down

Already been down there - the articles in the Scoop a few years ago should be proof of that. I've moved on to others...

[ELTBIRD]

The gentleman that sold me the unknown to be leaky original water control valve found he had a NOS one. He is sending it to me. I decided not to remove the hood insulation. Some outer layers areas are separated so I'm thinking a careful glue job will work. It's all adhered just finetape to the hood. Not sure what to do about all the dusty stuff that comes out of them when tapping them. Maybe put a plastic sheet over engine compartment and tap on them till there is no more dust if that's possible. Then vacuum them lightly with a brush attachment. Easy to mask them for painting. Masking the hinges requires more precision. Thank God for painter's tape and exacto knives! Front rubber strip will be replaced. Rubber support, hood latch hardware will be removed, cleaned up and painted.

[ELTBIRD]

On the left is the valve I got. My original leaking valve is on the right. Obviously different. Were they different for 64,64,66? For the one I just got there are threads for the bracket but holes on the bottom and a smaller nipple for the hose which is on top, not the side as my original. No Fomoco or p/n as the original has. Just a "E ." logo. Thoughts?

[ELTBIRD]

Sorry...here's the pics