Signal Light Switch Replacement

[paul2748]

I have to replace the signal light switch in the steering column. Don't want to remove column. Any one have any tips on replacement, especially running the wires?

Thanks

[gt5-33]

No tips on running the wires but I was unable to find a new switch at any of the baby bird suppliers.

[ward 57]

CASCO has them ,Part #13341 $104.75

[gt5-33]

Called CASCO and they said on back order.

[ward 57]

Called CASCO and they said on back order.

Same with the heat risers. Somewhere on a slow boat from the far east, that is if they have even been made yet.

[Rusty57]

Paul2748,

I have not done this task on our model TBird. On other cars I have successfully used the existing wires to pull the new wires through the column.

What I often do is attach a "pull" wire to the existing bundle. I like to use what is called "Safety wire". It is strong, smooth and fairly flexible. I have someone help by feeding it down the column while I pull the old harness. Then I attach the new harness to that wire and pull it.

Sometimes the terminals on the new harness make it too large to fit through the hole as a full end bundle. So I will tape the terminals in maybe pairs in a line along the harness to make it thinner.

[ward 57]

Called CASCO and they said on back order.

Same with the heat risers. Somewhere on a slow boat from the far east, that is if they have even been made yet.

Why is it so hard to get these things made here? I would gladly spend more for American made with better quality to boot. And on top of that if there is an issue it could be delt with immediately instead of months for corrections as if the foreign manufacturers even cared about quality over the bucks they suck from us.

[paul2748]

Thanks Rusty - that is what I thought of doing (using a strong string). This is what I have used in the past when running a new horn wire but now I have six wires to worry about.

Paul2748,

I have not done this task on our model TBird. On other cars I have successfully used the existing wires to pull the new wires through the column.

What I often do is attach a "pull" wire to the existing bundle. I like to use what is called "Safety wire". It is strong, smooth and fairly flexible. I have someone help by feeding it down the column while I pull the old harness. Then I attach the new harness to that wire and pull it.

Sometimes the terminals on the new harness make it too large to fit through the hole as a full end bundle. So I will tape the terminals in maybe pairs in a line along the harness to make it thinner.

[1957Birdman]

I guess you can change the switch without pulling the steering column, but it sure makes it a lot easier to pull it. If your wiring is old and the colors are faded be sure that you identify where the wires connected that you disconnected. That was the case with my car and even though I thought I had identified everything well I still had some problems getting everything back together correctly. You can try it without pulling the steering column if that doesn't work then pull it. Good luck.
Lew Bachman
1957 Colonial White

[gt5-33]

I went ahead and pulled my column because I want to replace the chrome pieces, pin the hub and replace the turn signal switch. My switch was working but I thought I would replace as it could be 65 years old. I was told by several of the Thunderbird suppliers it was on back order and could be six months. So I sprayed the inside on the switch with electrical contact cleaner which improved the switch operation (no dirt inside). Removing the column was not that big of a job and a lot easier to work on the column on the work bench.

[voltron]

You might consider using something like Dyna-Blue electrical cable lubricant that electricians use to pull tight cable bundles through conduit.

[CSPIDY]

If you decide to have your chrome parts re-chromed
having chrome on the inside of the collar can cause binding,
I’v had to hone the inside of the collar to get a slip fit
just a word of caution