1957 Gunmetal Grey Restoration

[Splash440]

Will post more soon. Have been working on other projects. Starting on rebuilding the 4R70W transmission last week. This is the first automatic I have ever done, so taking my time. I have done several manuals, but autos are a different beast.

To address the youth issue, lets just saw I am younger on the inside than I am no the outside.....

[Splash440]

When I look at the last date it has been almost a year since I posted and update, it did not seem like that long. I have been working on Marilyn (wife named her) on and off over the last year. I have been occupied helping my cousin who recently retired and is building a house. Between that and waiting for parts it has been a slow process.

Put the body back on the frame yet again. this time I needed to check the clearance for the motor and transmission.

Tried installing the brake booster, but did not like the way it lined up. In addition, I did not like the two plate system to make it work, so I cut the mounting bracket and added an extension and an offset. To make bolt holes line up with the bracket that holds the clutch pedal I needed to add a small extension on one side of the bracket.

One of the previous owners must have lost the the brake pedal pivot shoulder bolt because there was a standard bolt installed. The brake pedal wobbled around too much to suit me. When I first looked for the bolt I could not find a replacement so I decided to make one with my new toy. I did later find a shoulder bolt, but it was still fun making it.

I also turned a small pin to weld on the 4R70W gear selector arm to use with a Lokar cable. I wanted to use the original shifter with the new transmission.

[Splash440]

As I mentioned in an earlier post I was working on the 4R70W transmission. I have rebuilt several manuals, but never an automatic. After some research I decided it would be worth a shot while I was still waiting on the engine to be completed. I used the rebuild videos from "TransmissionBench.com". The video tutorials were excellent. They were very detailed and I felt comfortable doing the job all the way.

I still had some punchlist items on the body and frame. The fender skirt attachment lever needed some work. I added a nut to the end and welded a bracket on the skirt. Once locked in place a zip tie goes through the holes for more security.

I also needed to run the brake lines. With the new disc brakes I could not use the original setup for the brake lines. I added some brackets so the hoses could be clamped in place.

[seany-boy]

awesome work, thanks for the update and pics

[Splash440]

With the motor finally back and in the chassis it was time to start on the individual systems. I am using a Holley Terminator X Max system which has the computer separate from the throttle body. This eliminates the heat soak and RF issue some Ford products get with the Sniper setup. The Max part of the system is the 4R70W control. It is all done in the same computer. The previous owner had purchased a brand new fuel tank so I decided to use an external fuel pump and not replace the tank for an in-tank system.

My painter friend has done several Baby Birds and likes to do the finish bodywork with the body on the chassis so the are no alignment issues. To make it easier I had him paint the engine bay before I put the body back on for hopefully the last time.

I did not want to use a cable for the throttle. Mostly because I like the manual linkage look better, but the room is limited. I took the original linkage and split it and added some width. I got some bearing eye bolts and mounted it to the firewall, it is very solid.

Instead on trying fix the original steering column and make it work with the new Borgeson power steering box, I went with a GM style aftermarket column. It was pretty easy to fit with the right adapters.

Now on to the wiring. I have found on the last couple of projects it is actually easier to make the wiring harness from scratch than it is to purchase a generic harness and have to cut it up to make it work. I am using the HyperSpark system from Holley. All the Holley stuff comes with its own harness but I usually try to wrap it with harness tape for durability and looks.

I am still using the original Ford 9" rear end but with the 4R70W I can not use the original driveshaft. I took the measurements and had a local driveshaft specialist shop build me a new one.

[Splash440]

awesome work, thanks for the update and pics

Thanks, I just have to sit down and do. I am always getting sidetracked.....

[Haz567]

Splash440

Looking good! Thanks for updating.

[ICON 1956]

You are AMAZING ! Thank You so much for posting the progress pictures. This forum appreciates your hard work and skills.

[Splash440]

You are AMAZING ! Thank You so much for posting the progress pictures. This forum appreciates your hard work and skills.

Thanks, Hopefully it will help someone in the future that wants to do a similar modification.

[Splash440]

Have not posted an update in a while. I have tied up the loose ends and sent the car to the body shop for the final body work and paint. This is a friend of mine, so it could be three months it could be nine. He works on the insurance jobs first then the restoration project for the local guys.

While I am waiting I decided to refurbish the seat. I blasted the frame and painted it with VHT Roll bar and Chassis paint. With a lot of good advice from this group it went pretty well.

Did some final wiring and installed the inner fender guards/flaps.

The seat back ends were in pretty bad shape. I had to straighten them which revealed some corrosion. I cut a couple of strips and bent them. Using the shrinker I copied the curve and hammered them down and welded. I kept the edge from being so sharp.

Next I attached the tack strips.

I forgot to take pictures of attaching the foam on the bottom portion. It was not bad once I figures out a process. I have a set of long small needle nose pliers I used to make the hole in the foam and pull the zip tie back through. By the way, the 14in zip ties worked great for attaching the listing wires to the bolster wires.

I then maneuvered the cover over the foam and started stretching. I have replaced a couple of bow type headlines and had some clips I used for that job. They worked great for holding the vinyl once it was stretched.

[Splash440]

The back of the seat was actually harder for me than the bottom. I did not like the way the wings were attached in the back. There is no great way to make it smooth, but it came out acceptable.

Having never recovered a seat I was happy with the results.

I have a few more things to finish, but have started on a new project. I am restoring a 1975 First Gen Bronco.