replacing oil pan '66 390

[66blackbeauty]

I eed to replace the oil pan on my '66 390. do I need to raise the engine?

[RedBird64]

It helps but there is a specific position you can place the crank shaft in where the counter weights are out of the way and the pan will slide out. You have to remove the oil pump by feel (cant see it) first but after that, the pan bumps along the crank and slides out.
If I did it again, I would lift the eng an inch or two and place spacers between the egn mounts and block or frame. That would give you just a little extra room and make the job a bit more pleasant.
Re-install by installing the oil pump (again, by feel) and reversing the procedure.

Scott

[RAVEN]

Have re/re oil pan a couple of times, for various needs on a few cars. Redbird comments are all true, eg crank and spacing and oil pump.
Some other points to help in process is to raise motor by 2 inches, by unbolting motor mounts (as stated). Remember to open the hood or you will have a domed one, as you try to push the carb through the hood scoop. LOL
The additional points to remember and note: the oil pump drive shaft has a spring clip on it which prevents the shaft from sliding upwards when you pull the distributor, in the future. Take note of the clip orientation, for reinstall.
Another point, if the pump drive shaft has any twists, REPLACE IT, they are known to slowly spiral, due to dragging pump, and sometimes fail. Or round off the hex and slip.
Next point, since pan is off REPLACE the oil pump, its cheap insurance, and replace it with a high volume unit. This will help in compensating for worn bearings, and the relief valve spring becoming weak, on the old unit. (the replacement suggestion applies to older engines with low idle pressure that every one hides by adding/using heavier motor oils.)
If you install a high volume pump, it can improve the run pressure, and possibly save the motor from being rebuilt for awhile. JMHO

[Tbirdgul]

Raven and others,

I have a 64 with a very sweaty underside. yeah that sounds gross. Well, specifically I wanted to know whether it is possible to remove the oil pan without lifting the engine? For reference, I had the motor mounts replaced a couple years ago. If I have to lift the engine and If my main point is to just replace the gasket. Is it necessary to pull the pan? I’m guessing yes to clean the surfaces, but I thought it was worth asking.

Thanks Tony G

[cacockrum]

I have a question regarding Raven's advice to replace the oil pump with a high volume unit:

Next point, since pan is off REPLACE the oil pump, its cheap insurance, and replace it with a high volume unit.

I've been told that using a high volume pump on an FE engine can increase the amount of oil around the rocker arms such that oil is more likely to leak past the valve seals after which it disappears out the exhaust pipe. Is there any truth to this?

[RAVEN]

Cacockrum, please remember to finish the paragraph, and it's comment of an aged motor.
I have traded out oil pumps before on motors with mileage and have had good results, and oil pressure.
Remember the oil circuit is feeding the cam shaft and crank shaft bearings first, then off of bearing no 2 and 4 of the cam shaft to feed rockers.
I have not seen or experienced rocker cover leaks, BUT maybe I have been lucky.
Wonder what the FE Forum comments.

[cacockrum]

Raven,

I understand. What I'm asking about is not a leak past the rocker arm cover gasket, but the possibility of seepage past the valve seals if too much oil builds up below the rocker arms because of the extra volume pumped by the high-volume pump.

Art

[RAVEN]

If excessive oil exists in rocker cover area, then the valve seals can be submerged in oil. They are a cap over a valve tower, not a pressure seal. A high volume could enter the valve stems and migrate to the cylinders. This would lead to oil consumption. I like the idea of valve stem lubrication, to reduce wear, but not at the level if it enters the exhaust system.
My thoughts are to increase oil flow to the bottom end, and increase the life of a motor, and make up the loss of bearing tolerances.
My comments are to satisfy the need of oil to supply warn bearings, and replace the lost tolerances. I fully agree with your thoughts. It is a balance of pressure, vs lubrication vs volume vs motor life.

[RedBird64]

I've been running a high volume pump on mine for decades and have never found the eng to use anymore oil than an FE normally does.

Scoott

[Tbirdgul]

Folks, why would I replace the pump, high output or standard, if everything is running well? Is there a systemic issue with the pumps. I have no history if mine has been replaced, but I do plan to replace the gasket and maybe go so far as replace the rear main seal. Apologies if this is an obvious question. Thanks Tony G

[RAVEN]

In simple terms, replacing the oil pump is a personal decision but not necessarily needed. A simple check to see the engines condition is to install a test gage to the motor and know it's running pressure. Looking in the Shop Manual specs, will give an indication to compare to. If numbers are down then you will need to address the situation, and the respective correction methods.
I believe a high volume pump is cheap insurance, and as others have said no issues with one.

[Rt.146]

On the rebuild of my 390 I went with a standard oil pump after reading some pro and con on the high volume pump, with the high volume pump too much oil is getting in, that it not needed,unless one is using the motor to race.