Disc Brake Conversion

[JohnnyB56]

Hey all! In the process of bringing my '56 back to life after sitting in storage for almost 40 years. Looking at options for converting it to front and rear disc brakes. Curious to know what everyone recommends as far as brands and other items to consider? Any info is appreciated!

[55blacktie]

Most T-bird parts vendors sell disc-brake conversion kits. Almost all use single-piston floating calipers. One vendor has a 4-piston, fixed-caliper conversion kit. I can't remember which vendor, but I'll search my catalogs if you wish. Wilwood has a Dynalite 4-piston, fixed-caliper conversion kit specifically for 55-57 T-birds. Their kit works with your OEM spindles. I bought my Wilwood brakes, along with drop spindles, from Drop 'em Stop 'em. Dave provided the necessary brackets to mount the calipers to the Granada drop spindles. You can find cheap kits, using single-piston calipers, on ebay. My car is still under restoration, so I can't tell you how effective the Wilwood brakes are. You can, however, search reviews of Wilwood's Dynalite brakes for other applications. The Kelsey-Hayes calipers used on first-generation Mustangs were 4-piston fixed calipers. They're close, if not the same, size as the Dynalites but made of cast iron instead of aluminum. Ford started using the single-piston floating calipers in 1967. Although single-piston calipers are more common among production vehicles, performance cars and trucks are using calipers with two or more pistons. Could it be that Ford went with single-piston calipers for cost-containment purposes?

[55blacktie]

Correction! Looking through my catalogs, I see that Hill's, NPD, and Larry's use 4-piston calipers. Hill's and NPD $1150. Casco uses 2-piston floating calipers, also $1150. All of these kits are completed and include the master cylinder. Larry's kit is $1,392.84. Wilwood's kit is $744.79, but does not include a master cylinder. You can get a single-piston kit from ebay for less than $500.

[JimCunn]

Some of the disc conversion kits move the rims further outboard, and the cars already have a problem with tire and spinner clearance. Research that before selecting your kit.

[55blacktie]

None of these kits, with the possible exception of the ebay kit, will present a clearance issue on the front. I wouldn't install discs on the rear, unless you just like spending money.

[paul2748]

I think rear discs are overkill

[JohnnyB56]

Thank you all for the feedback! Greatly appreciated.

Leaning towards the Hills kit because it has the 4 piston calipers, includes the rear wheel cylinders, and has the option for the combo valve.

[JimCunn]

I recommend keeping the rear drums, but converting them to self-adjusting using the inexpensive NAPA kits.
Keeps you from having to crawl up under the car every 500 miles.

[T-Bird Bob]

Hello Johnny,
Watch out if you want to go from non-power brakes to a power dual master cylinder.
If you want to do that you will get clearance issues with the battery.
I think a regular non-power dual master cylinder will fit, but I am not sure about the brake line routing.
If you already have power brakes and want to keep the remote booster setup, I have no idea how to convert it to double master cylinder.

I know you probably thought this through, but my experience with disk brakes is that it only makes sense when you really want performance. If you are just cruising like me, I think well maintained and adjusted drums are fine.

Good luck!

Bob

[JimCunn]

My 55 with drums would completely lose its braking ability in 30 minutes of mountain driving.

[55blacktie]

I have the Wilwood dual master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve for manual brakes. The master cylinder allows for routing the brake lines on either side of the master cylinder. There isn't sufficient space to route the lines between the master cylinder, but they can be routed between the master cylinder and engine, while retaining the OEM battery and battery box. It might not be an issue with the Hill's master cylinder/w no proportioning valve.

The OEM single master cylinder reservoir uses a 1" bore size. 15/16" was recommended for manual front disc/rear drums. Power brakes use a larger bore size.

If you have the OEM remote power brakes booster, it is not sufficient for all 4 wheels when converting to front discs. It can be used for front/rear but not both. if you use an aftermarket booster, the battery will have to be relocated.

[DynoDan’55]

Hey all! In the process of bringing my '56 back to life after sitting in storage for almost 40 years. Looking at options for converting it to front and rear disc brakes. Curious to know what everyone recommends as far as brands and other items to consider? Any info is appreciated!

“Back to life” might only require a fluid flush/change, and new wheel cylinders/return springs (plus a can of brake cleaner).
Would depend of course, on how recently the brakes were service before the car was put into storage, as the brake shop facilities/parts available 40 yrs. ago are likely now only a memory. Unless you DO live in the mountains (or think it likely you’ll be driving through deep puddles), then all bets are off.

[MarkR]

I use Bob Walker Thunderbirds 1 in Gastonia N.C.. He designed the disc brake kit he sells. Has sold over 1500 kits. The kits some of our suppliers sell are his. Superb quality and customer service. Also sells combination valves, dual masters etc.
Mark
Las Vegas

[paul2748]

Some people with factory power brakes that convert to front discs hook up the power to just the front as the front does the heavy breaking. Some kits are different between power and non-power brakes. Ask when ordering

[DynoDan’55]

Hey all! In the process of bringing my '56 back to life after sitting in storage for almost 40 years. Looking at options for converting it to front and rear disc brakes. Curious to know what everyone recommends as far as brands and other items to consider? Any info is appreciated!

“Back to life” might only require a fluid flush/change, and new wheel cylinders/hoses/return springs (plus a can of brake cleaner). Adjustment/lube of emergency brake would also be indicated.
Would depend of course, on how recently the brakes were serviced before the car was put into storage, as the brake shop facilities/parts available 40 yrs. ago are likely now only a memory. Unless you DO live in the mountains (or think it likely you’ll be driving through deep puddles), then all bets are off.