1961 Convertible electrical config

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

I am having a heck of a time debugging an issue with the convertible top.

Scenario is simple: When I press the Top Retract Switch at the door, nothing happens. I have gone through the procedures described in the shop manual, and just have not yet nailed the issue. When I use a jumper at the relay switches, I can get the top to retract, etc. Then the switch will work when I go to put the top back up. I have replace all 8 relays, and the top has worked fine until recently.

So, I am thinking one of three issues:

1) the initial limit switch to raise the rear deck lick is off kilter or that limit switch is faulty (it's original).
2) my neutral switch relay is no good. (I don't hear any audible click when I move the shifter in and out of N as described in the manual). The 10 amp and 50 amp relays don't make any audible noise either. I have a new 50-amp on there now.
3) Wiring at the starter solenoid is incorrect (I recently replaced my the starter solenoid, using pics I took for a before and after comparison, I have it wired as it was when it was working). However, this issue did occur before I replaced that solenoid, as well as after.

BUT, I noticed that the wiring diagram in the shop manual differed from how the vehicle was wired when I got it, and it has been working well for the past 4 years.

My ask is two-fold:

1) If someone has a similar setup in their '61 convertible, would you mind posting a pic of how yours is wired at the started solenoid?
2) does anyone have any further ideas or advice? Could this be at the switch itself? Is it the N relay switch? Or is there something I am missing?

Merry Christmas to you all! Hope you are staying safe and healthy!

Regard,

~g

[Jim Wulf]

Since the "top retract" cycle will initiate when bypassing the deck unlock relay (at least I think that's what you have indicated), I would start by cleaning the connections on all relays with electrical cleaner and a thin, flat jewelers file. Then gently squeeze the female sockets with a pair of duckbill pliers to insure good contact with the relay spades. A thin film of dielectric grease on the spades will help to prevent further corrosion issues. I've found that 90% of intermittant electrical issues are caused by poor connections/poor grounds.

Although I don't think your problem is related to the starter relay because the "top erect" cycle works normally, it wouldn't hurt to thoroughly clean the corrosion off all of the starter relay connections too.

[claybreaker 144]

I learned a neat way to clean a female connector, spiral twist a small strip of of emery paper (I use 150 grit) around a short 1/16 rod and chuck it up in a battery drill with most of the emery cloth exposed out of the chuck. At low rpm's and going with the direction of the spiral it does a great job cleaning corrosion. I started out doing this without the rod with limited success.

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Thanks, guys! I will work on this over the weekend and report back any findings!

All my best,

!g

[FlyAngry]

Just spit-balling here, and somebody please call me out if this is bad info, but maybe it's something as simple as the door switch itself??

We're always so quick to say "it's the relays!" or "it's the limit switches!" But I've run into a handful of folks that have spent a lot of time and money replacing relays etc then later learned it was a door switch going bad or faulty wire between the door and relays.

Again, no expert, but sometimes it's the simple things. Food for thought.

Good luck!

JP

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Thanks JP. That’s definitely another item I have not yet ruled out. However, I have installed a remote switch so I can debug using a fob so I can watch what happens as the mechanics work. I will go down that route with the switch too. Thanks!!