65 brake hose torque limit

[paulr]

Is there a known limit on the caliper bolt? The manual sets a limit to the other end of the hose at the chassis but skips the caliper bolt. I have two new copper washers and a new hose. Won’t stop leaking. . Did I already create a leak at the washers? Is it a bad new hose? I don’t want to wreck the caliper—buddy’s car, not mine. Appreciate thoughts, obvious mistakes, guesses. Thanks.

[RAVEN]

Paul, you are sure that washers are new? Do not doubt you just checking. It has always been my understanding that the copper washers are a ONE time use item. Others may disagree.
Next is any possible contamination of joint point (grit) and lastly and this is out there, but are the hose block faces parallel where the banjo bolt traps the washers against the caliper. If the 2 faces are not parallel, you may end up with a twist and allowing the leak.
Fully agree my comments are ??? But it's an idea.
Good luck.

[stubbie]

Leaks like that are usually a nick or some type of problem with the washer or the faces of the fittings.

[redthundervert64]

Hi - I just finished a front disc conversion on my '64 and used the excellent guide created by two members (Treozen and bigbrownpilot), who address the issue of torque required for the caliper banjo bolts. They say to use 35 ft-lbs and let the bolts sit for 15-30 minutes so the copper "sets", then retighten. I ended up having a little bit of seepage on both bolts at the calipers but was able to tighten them a bit more and the seepage stopped.

I've seen the 35 ft-lbs spec on other forums but have also seen a spec for 12-14 ft-lbs. Possibly it depends on the caliper material (aluminum vs. iron) and also the related strength of the banjo bolt?

Hope this helps - good luck!

Bob

[paulr]

Thanks all. Good feedback to go on. I tried one replacement set of washers just to see. The weeping slowed to a one drip per minute, but still. I won't be trying another set of new washers, i.e., doing the same thing over and over, expecting different results. Even though washers and block are all new material, I'll spend time removing and inspecting the hose and block tomorrow for imperfections.

Hi - I just finished a front disc conversion on my '64 and used the excellent guide created by two members (Treozen and bigbrownpilot), who address the issue of torque required for the caliper banjo bolts. They say to use 35 ft-lbs and let the bolts sit for 15-30 minutes so the copper "sets", then retighten. I ended up having a little bit of seepage on both bolts at the calipers but was able to tighten them a bit more and the seepage stopped.
I've seen the 35 ft-lbs spec on other forums but have also seen a spec for 12-14 ft-lbs. Possibly it depends on the caliper material (aluminum vs. iron) and also the related strength of the banjo bolt?

Bob

It's been so many years since I saw that excellent article I forgot all about it. Great find!! I'm dealing with OEM iron calipers and a steel block. Also, and OEM banjo bolt. It should all withstand the heavier torque value. I appreciate the lead very much.

So, to go off topic, I'm curious if you built the hybrid disc design they created, or did you decide to apply the physics to your own components? For my own '64 I'm using a reconditioned donor build from a '66 including spindles, lower control arms, etc.

[redthundervert64]

Hi Paul - the route you're going with the '66 setup for the conversion is probably the best choice but for a few reasons I went with the ACC rotors, calipers, mounting brackets and spindle adapters and also installed a Raybestos MC32651 (1969 Mustang) disc/drum dual master cylinder and a Wilwood model 260-11179 adjustable proportioning valve. Thanks to RedBird64 for the information in his posts on the Raybestos MC.

So far I'm really happy with the improvement over the drum brakes, which I had replaced with all new parts earlier this year. The braking is noticeably better. There is more braking power and braking is also smoother, straighter, more predictable and it is much easier to modulate the pedal (and I'm using my original booster). The calipers supplied are now 1979 Malibu calipers (still comes with Granada rotors). Also, the spindle adapters are now designed to slide (tightly) onto the spindles without having to drive them home with a pipe and hammer. They fit tightly on the spindle but can be spun by hand. I'm going to be checking these regularly to make sure there are no wear issues.

Good luck with your conversion - pretty sure you'll be really happy with it.

Bob