Power Window Stuck Up

[Terry64HT]

If the motor keeps working (ie window keeps moving) after the switch is released then I would suspect the switch. It must be keeping contact after release, either it's gummed up and slow to react or the contacts are too close together. If it was the relay operating slowly, a properly working switch would still interrupt the current.
I know there is some discussion on this, but I believe the resistor in the ground wire is essential to slow the motor down as it approaches the end of it's travel.
Terry
64HT

[Phobos]

If the motor keeps working (ie window keeps moving) after the switch is released then I would suspect the switch. It must be keeping contact after release, either it's gummed up and slow to react or the contacts are too close together. If it was the relay operating slowly, a properly working switch would still interrupt the current.
I know there is some discussion on this, but I believe the resistor in the ground wire is essential to slow the motor down as it approaches the end of it's travel.
Terry
64HT

I my case, i can tell that the power is ”off” when i release the switch, the motor is so fast that it takes an inch or so to slow down- its like driving a fast Electric RC car- it keeps on Rolling after throttle.

I filmed the window operation last year to get help from a friend. This is before i increased the springload tension, so its not as bad as is looks in the clip. In the clip i stop the window by pressing the switch in the other direction a couple of times, and it ends in getting stuck at the bottom.

https://youtu.be/5vqefuPHc_4

[Terry64HT]

Phobos, I really don't think the motor is causing this. The is a 5:1 reduction in the gear which is in grease, and then there are the arms to the tracks and rollers. There is not enough inertia in the motor to move the window an extra inch or so, especially if it is winding the spring on the down cycle.
I looked at your video and my windows are about as fast because they are running on full 12 volts from the solenoid through relays. I think if you carefully monitored voltage to the motor you would find that the switches are slow to shut off. If they have been rebuilt, possibly the distance between the contacts is set too low. Also, make sure you have the correct resistance in the ground, 0.70 ohm for the front windows.
Trying to fix these windows can become a lifelong occupation.
Terry
64HT

[Phobos]

Phobos, I really don't think the motor is causing this. The is a 5:1 reduction in the gear which is in grease, and then there are the arms to the tracks and rollers. There is not enough inertia in the motor to move the window an extra inch or so, especially if it is winding the spring on the down cycle.
I looked at your video and my windows are about as fast because they are running on full 12 volts from the solenoid through relays. I think if you carefully monitored voltage to the motor you would find that the switches are slow to shut off. If they have been rebuilt, possibly the distance between the contacts is set too low. Also, make sure you have the correct resistance in the ground, 0.70 ohm for the front windows.
Trying to fix these windows can become a lifelong occupation.
Terry
64HT

Thnx!

[JimB66thunderbird]

I have 1966 hardtop. The drivers window won't go up or down. When I push the switch I hear the motor give a soft click and then nothing. I am getting 12 volts to the motor, I replaced the nylon or plastic gear, the motor spins both ways on the test stand with 12 volts used. Is there a way to tell if the motor just does not have the power to move the window anymore?

[Cliff Rankin]

So, it seems to me to be in the window regular assembly.
Is your helper spring that helps it lift back up possible mis installed ? ( backwards , well..kinda!) causing it to cram down ?
Cliff

[johnnytheg]

This is the gremlin that plagues Thunderbird power window owners.

[Terry64HT]

Jim, you said you were getting 12 volts at the motor. Did you measure that at the connector inside the door and did you get the same on both the red and yellow wires?
Terry
64HT

[JimB66thunderbird]

Terry64HT, thanks for the response, I measured the 12 volts at the connector in the door and the voltage was the same at both the red and yellow wires.

[Terry64HT]

That's good news. There is usually some voltage loss through the switch and connectors. What position is the window in? Has it ever worked, even one cycle, since you installed it?
Cliff is on the right track in suspecting the mechanism, especially the spring installation.
Terry
64HT

[JimB66thunderbird]

The spring mechanism is very confusing to me. Some say there must be tension on it before the regulator is connected to the motor gear. I don't know if the hook on the gear should be on top of the detent that holds it tense or on the bottom of the detent. And how much preload tension should the spring have before it is connected to the motor gear? As always, I am very thankful for any ideas or solutions.

[JimB66thunderbird]

I finally have success with the drivers side front window. I have been struggling to get it to work for months now and I have taken it out so many times that I just maybe able to do it with my eyes closed. It started when I changed the gear because the old old one was broken. When I replaced that gear and reassembled the window it did not work. It was take out the regulator, test it, test the switches, test the harness, and put it back in again and watch the window stay still. Yesterday I decided to just put it all together again and forget about for a while. Today as I was reassembling it I noticed how hard the window rollers were to put in and how easy they become stuck. Eureka moment. Maybe I had put the rollers in backwards with the clip facing the door. Sure enough when I put the rollers in correctly, with the clip toward the interior of the car, they went in easy, rolled along the glides without hesitation. That was the problem all along after the gear change. What I now realized was when I put the window back together the first time I put the rollers in backwards, had the problem and disassembled and reassembled it time and time again repeating the incorrect installation of the rollers. I am so happy that the window works that in a moment of happiness I forgave myself for being so dumb.

[Terry64HT]

Welcome to the dumb club, Jim. I've been a charter member for more years than I care to count.
Terry
64HT
Glad things are now working.

[JimB66thunderbird]

Terry64HT I am already a life memder.

[Phobos]

I finally have success with the drivers side front window. I have been struggling to get it to work for months now and I have taken it out so many times that I just maybe able to do it with my eyes closed. It started when I changed the gear because the old old one was broken. When I replaced that gear and reassembled the window it did not work. It was take out the regulator, test it, test the switches, test the harness, and put it back in again and watch the window stay still. Yesterday I decided to just put it all together again and forget about for a while. Today as I was reassembling it I noticed how hard the window rollers were to put in and how easy they become stuck. Eureka moment. Maybe I had put the rollers in backwards with the clip facing the door. Sure enough when I put the rollers in correctly, with the clip toward the interior of the car, they went in easy, rolled along the glides without hesitation. That was the problem all along after the gear change. What I now realized was when I put the window back together the first time I put the rollers in backwards, had the problem and disassembled and reassembled it time and time again repeating the incorrect installation of the rollers. I am so happy that the window works that in a moment of happiness I forgave myself for being so dumb.

Great with a happy ending! :)