1964 Thunderbird build

[paulr]

Would LOVE to see some photos of this build (maybe in a new thread of your own). That’s a heck of a lot of work; congratulations!

PS. At the bottom of the post screen there’s an attachment tab. Click that and from there you can add pic files.

[RedBird64]

Yes, pics please and if it's not too much bother, a sound clip of the exhaust.

Scott

[wallyblackburn]

Something that I neglected to replace when I was getting new parts was the harmonic balancer. So after much discussion with my peeps I ordered a new one. If I remember correctly it did have some dry rotting in the rubber and maybe it’s causing the slight knock. The knock just doesn’t sound like its deep. So I’ll try and that see what happens. If that doesn’t work I’ll just go ahead and pull it soon.

Any updates?

[crashchoate]

Sorry I haven't updated this thread in a while but I have not worked on the Tbird for a long while now. I am waiting for funds to build back up to rebuild the motor and start over. I do have a clip of the cam after I installed it and will try and upload it soon.

[crashchoate]

Here is a video link for the cam. https://youtu.be/BfrulLIefkQ

[RedBird64]

Thanks for the vid.
The lope seems very mild, if any. Would be great even for a "stock" car.

Scott

[crashchoate]

I was wondering if you guys know what kind of pistons came in these cars. I've been pulling rods and mains to see if I can locate the problem. So far I haven't seen anything wrong. I believe I have a bad wrist pin. So if I can replace just one I will just to get me by till I build a motor.

[jtschug]

I'm not sure I understand the question "what kind of pistons"

Stock pistons were cast, 'slipper skirt' I think supplied by TRW. I'm not sure what difference that makes.

These engines tend to bend pushrods when they sit around for a while. Are you sure the knock isn't coming from up top?

[crashchoate]

What I was meaning was what type of piston do they use as in dish flattop or something of that nature. I did notice a bent pushrod. so I am going to order a pushrod length tool and get a new set ordered.

[jtschug]

They are flat top with valve reliefs. Symmetrical so they can go in either way.

If you are going to rebuild the motor, then you should wait to order the pistons until the block has been checked out for cylinder taper. You may need to overbore and get oversize pistons. 390s can easily go to 0.030" overbore, maybe more depending on a sonic check and what the water jackets look like.

[crashchoate]

I believe it’s already been bored. But I’m going to take a couple pistons out to see. The reason I asked was to be able to match a piston if I have had a wrist pin go bad. I will probably source a new block when I go to build a motor.

[sseebart]

I believe it’s already been bored. But I’m going to take a couple pistons out to see. The reason I asked was to be able to match a piston if I have had a wrist pin go bad. I will probably source a new block when I go to build a motor.

You shouldn't have to remove the piston to know if the block has been bored. Normally, the piston will have the overbore amount stamped on top. (Though it may require a bit of cleaning to see.)

~Steve

[crashchoate]

I believe it’s already been bored. But I’m going to take a couple pistons out to see. The reason I asked was to be able to match a piston if I have had a wrist pin go bad. I will probably source a new block when I go to build a motor.

You shouldn't have to remove the piston to know if the block has been bored. Normally, the piston will have the overbore amount stamped on top. (Though it may require a bit of cleaning to see.)



~Steve

I’m really just removing to check for wrist pin play.

[jtschug]

When you replaced the cam, what kind of lifters did you use? Hydraulic flat tappet? If you used stock lifters, then you shouldn't need to remeasure the pushrod length, just get standard length pushrods. The lifters should close up the lash and it will run fine, unless you have a stuck valve, which could be the cause of the bent pushrod.

Also, if it is a flat tappet cam, hopefully the instructions informed you that modern motor oils do not contain enough ZDDP for flat cam break in. Extra ZDDP must be added to the oil to keep from wiping a cam lobe during startup.

I'm not sure why you are looking for a wrist pin problem. A knock could be a lot of things and wrist pin isn't the first place I would check. It could be the pistons are a bit loose in the bores, it could be a bearing or something else.

Unless you are spending $3000+ on a brand new aftermarket block (pond, BBM, etc.) I would inspect the block you have and determine if it will suit your needs. Every other block is used in some way, and shipping a used block costs almost as much as machining the block you have. If the cylinder walls are thick, you can stroke these things to make a lot of power.

[crashchoate]

Im selling everything I have for the Sniper kit. If anyone is interested I posted an ad in the for sale forum.