Repro door panels

[Patdown45]

After removing the panel and disconnecting the cables I am quite certain there is not enough room to get the threads to engage. I will take some exact measurements and quite certain the dremel tool will be required if not a custom part or 2 made to go with the custom tool that I had to make

[paulr]

I spent 6 unsuccessful hours yesterday trying to get the remote mirror controls installed on my replacment drivers door panel. The plastic and vinyl seem to be too thick to allow both parts to engage the threads while the cables are attached. If I disconnect the 3 cables I may succeed in installing the toggle but I am afraid I will not be able to reattach the cables on such a short reach, but at this point I am willing to try anything!

You hit on another design flaw in the reproduction panels we haven’t mentioned before—the hard plastic doesn’t have any give like the original cardboard. Pinching at the glass frame and threads not grabbing (like in your case) are some of the drawbacks. Use as much caution as you can command. If push comes to shove the soft vinyl will tear and then it’s too late to get the look you paid $700+ for. When I came up against all the little almost-but-not-quite-fit issues I solved some by means of a dremel tool and minute cuts, shaping, grinding, prayers, alcoholic beverages, and desperation.

In the remote toggle fixture case I think I enlarged the hole (without cutting the vinyl) and fabbed a sheet metal grommet to replace it with. It was thinner and it grabbed and held. Just one idea.

[Terry64HT]

I haven't replaced the panels on my 64, but when I took the originals off to do other work, I found that the cable was stretched to the limit, making reinstallation almost impossible. I drilled a new hole in the inner door panel to make the cable routing more direct. This gave me a bit of slack to work with.
Don't know if this will help you.
Terry
64HT

[JamesR]

Following this resurrected thread with interest, as I removed my driver side panel a couple weeks ago to address some door related issues, which I've pretty much resolved. I'm now trying to decide on the best way to refurbish my panel: replace panel or use an accuform plastic cover or just doctor up the existing panel.

The mirror control cable problems that have been mentioned:

The plastic and vinyl seem to be too thick to allow both parts to engage the threads while the cables are attached. If I disconnect the 3 cables I may succeed in installing the toggle but I am afraid I will not be able to reattach the cables on such a short reach. Patdownd45.

I haven't replaced the panels on my 64, but when I took the originals off to do other work, I found that the cable was stretched to the limit, making reinstallation almost impossible. I drilled a new hole in the inner door panel to make the cable routing more direct. This gave me a bit of slack to work with. Don't know if this will help you.
Terry

I'm worried that I'll encounter the same problem with the cable, but from what I see I seem to have more than enough length to reinstall in the existing hole. Was the cable length issue specific to the 1964 models? My car is a '65.

[methos76]

where can I find door panels for my 66 t-bird, mine are alright except for the lower area. my interior is black with power windows

[jtschug]

Fix the panels you have and install a vapor barrier between the door and the panel.

I used fiberglass to repair mine

[methos76]

thank you will try

[JamesR]

Fix the panels you have and install a vapor barrier between the door and the panel.

I used fiberglass to repair mine

Thanks for the responses everyone. I'm thinking I will try to reuse and repaint/re-dye my existing panels.

Jtschug, when you say use fiberglass, are you talking about the fiberglass weave stuff like you find in bondo kits? How did you do go about doing that and how visible is the repair?

Also, the backing cardboard at the bottom of each panel (behind the carpet strip) is pretty much gone (deteriorated). I don't see a problem in cutting off the remnants of that portion and attaching new cardboard or fiberboard, but that particular fiberboard piece (at the bottom) has a perpendicular lip on it that attaches around the metal structure of the door. That lip looks like it'd be very difficult to create with heavy cardboard or fiberboard. Any suggestions?

[David Langhorne]

I repaired my disintegrating door panel bottoms by brushing several coats of PVA on them and clamping between timber battens while it dried.
I used newspaper to stop them sticking to the timber battens.

[Alan H. Tast]

Uh, what's PVA and timber battens for those of us who live in the colonies?

[apines]

Uh, what's PVA and timber battens for those of us who live in the colonies?

I'm pretty sure it's wood glue and wooden sticks.

[David Langhorne]

Yes you got it. PVA comes in 5 litre containers and has multiple uses including glue. Thinned with water it can be spread on walls before plastering to improve adhesion. I'm sure you must have it under different name? BTW I mended the moulded part of the panel by making an L shape out of metal and rivetting it on using washers to spread the load - a tip I got from the forum a few years back.

[sseebart]

In the US, your best bet for PVA glue would likely be Titebond III, which is a waterproof formulation.

Not sure what a "newspaper" is, but I used wax or parchment paper to prevent sticking in applications like this.

~Steve

[stubbie]

A newspaper is a periodical publication containing written information about current events and is often typed in black ink with a white or gray background.
PVA

[David Langhorne]

Thank you Stubbie - nice to see someone speaks my language. Now translate Bunnings for our american friends.