Deck Lid Weatherstripping Replacement

[stevegintn]

OK, I got me a new deck lid weather strip - now, how does it go on?

That's the problem, when I'm replacing something my car never had (since I've owned it)?

As you can see from the illustration I pulled from the FOMOCO 1961 Trim & Sealing Installation manual, the seal is supposed to be cemented to the underside of the deck lid:

However, I don't see any channel or rail to attach it to - does it just sit (glued) straight onto the metal?

Also, if you look at the section details at the bottom of the illustration, there appear to be channels/rails, that the split stripping slips onto.
Moreover, the split side of the strip appears to be facing OUTWARD - is that correct?

But it sure looks like it would just lay down, a lot easier, on the bottom (deck) side?

Just need a Sanity Check, please, before I mess up my $40 part. (CAVEAT: My car is a 1962)

[michaelperazzo]

I just checked mine, its just glued right on the flat part. Sort of a U shaped with the bottom of the U glued down from what I can tell.

[stevegintn]

I just checked mine, its just glued right on the flat part. Sort of a U shaped with the bottom of the U glued down from what I can tell.

Thanks, Michael - I'm afraid that's going to be the consensus?

[Karl]

Looking at your sectional views it seems the split is facing inwards, not outwards.
Karl.

[Peddller]

The cross sectional profile appears to be slightly different on one side of the channel than the other, In section BB the back or opposite the chanel side is glued, in section AA and CC the one side is glued with the channel facing in. You may need to study the alignment some but usually there is some sheet metal feature the weatherstrip follows but not always. I would try to find someone who had one done or an original and take some detailed pictures. Lastly when using the 3M black weather strip adheasive you need to apply it to both sides and then wait until it gets tacky before connecting it. Have some help available and perhaps some spring clamps and do a dry fit. It pays to sort of practice how your going to apply it and you don't have to glue the whole thing at once. Lastly before you apply the glue make sure both surfaces are clean and dry and I prime the weatherstrip by spraying ome CRC brake clean on a clean towel and rubbing the contact surface until you see some black on the towel. Good Luck.

[Bungalocity]

Hey my stripping is coming in Fri. delivery too, post up here when you're about to start. Also note the shop manual specs 2 dif. types of cement, rubber to metal for the main thing, and then rubber to rubber to complete the butt joints

[stevegintn]

Looking at your sectional views it seems the split is facing inwards, not outwards.
Karl.

Karl, open your deck lid and look up at the weatherstripping - do you see the split-side or the U-side?

My thinking is, the U-side is glued to the metal surface, so when closed, the split side will go into the channel on the deck frame?

Does that make sense?

[stevegintn]

The cross sectional profile appears to be slightly different on one side of the channel than the other, In section BB the back or opposite the chanel side is glued, in section AA and CC the one side is glued with the channel facing in. You may need to study the alignment some but usually there is some sheet metal feature the weatherstrip follows but not always. I would try to find someone who had one done or an original and take some detailed pictures. Lastly when using the 3M black weather strip adheasive you need to apply it to both sides and then wait until it gets tacky before connecting it. Have some help available and perhaps some spring clamps and do a dry fit. It pays to sort of practice how your going to apply it and you don't have to glue the whole thing at once. Lastly before you apply the glue make sure both surfaces are clean and dry and I prime the weatherstrip by spraying ome CRC brake clean on a clean towel and rubbing the contact surface until you see some black on the towel. Good Luck.

Bill, yea, that had me scratching my head, too - but for that to be so, the one-piece weatherstripping would have to be either twisted 360 or cut?

Like I asked Karl, look at the weatherstripping on YOUR car, and tell me which side is facing outward (down toward the trunk compartment)?

Thanks for the advice on glueing. I will be getting my son to help me, and yes, we will make several dry runs!

[stevegintn]

Hey my stripping is coming in Fri. delivery too, post up here when you're about to start. Also note the shop manual specs 2 dif. types of cement, rubber to metal for the main thing, and then rubber to rubber to complete the butt joints

Will do, Bungalo!

[Bungalocity]

I opted to not get the tube of 3M and figured I'd find it in Chicago. What else is good for this at a major store?

[Karl]

G'day,

Had a look at the rubber on my 63 boot this morning. The gap is facing outwards. The rubber looks old however the car was re-painted and restored to a somewhat good condition in the U.S.A. more than 10 years ago so I am thinking that it has been replaced. It looks old but not more than 50 years old. All the other door rubbers have been replaced also.
For me looking at the sectional view in the drawing, the way that I understand it is that you look at the section in the direction of the arrows. If you look at the drawing this way the body shape would confirm this. If there is somebody on the forum that does drawings all the time and this is wrong please let me know.
In saying all that I believe that my rubber is on back to front. Maybe this is why my boot is not sealed properly.
Karl.

[stevegintn]

G'day,

Had a look at the rubber on my 63 boot this morning. The gap is facing outwards. The rubber looks old however the car was re-painted and restored to a somewhat good condition in the U.S.A. more than 10 years ago so I am thinking that it has been replaced. It looks old but not more than 50 years old. All the other door rubbers have been replaced also.
For me looking at the sectional view in the drawing, the way that I understand it is that you look at the section in the direction of the arrows. If you look at the drawing this way the body shape would confirm this. If there is somebody on the forum that does drawings all the time and this is wrong please let me know.
In saying all that I believe that my rubber is on back to front. Maybe this is why my boot is not sealed properly.
Karl.

Thanks, again, Karl

So, by saying yours is on 'back to front', I'm guessing then that the joint is to the front (leading edge) of the deck lid?

[Jim Wulf]

There is a big difference in the profiles and durometers of trunk gaskets from different suppliers. I've have seen three different ones myself, and have one in a Dennis Carpenter bag that I would deem to be unusable because it is so large and the rubber is so dense. The "U" faces inward, BTW.

[Bungalocity]

The one I got from maybe Larry's (I can't recall, now the emails are from Ecklers) seemed to be the shape closest to the graphic at the top of this thread. I'll snap pix soon as it arrives today

[Bungalocity]

Honestly, I'm more concerned with how to remove the old tar-stripping debris stuck onto the paint, and pulling the fake-paint off.
The 'Great Resto of 1993' was such a terrible prep job much of the original Champaign I/58 code is coming through nicely LOL maybe I'll just peel all the Rangoon off
This is a temp. stripping job because I would like to redo the paint and fix panels somewhere before summer's end.