Strut Rod BUSHINGS

[surfmurf]

Have viewed many websites looking for Bushings for my '63 Bird's Strut Rods. I see many offerings that cite being for a '63 Thunderbird, but most are physically different from each other, some very much so. I see discussion on the Struts, but no images of the '63s Bushings on VTBC. Are there any on our website? Or can anyone recommend the correct bushings that show on one of the retail T-Bird specific websites OR any other website? Suspension is my weakest aspect of a vehicle. Thank you, Murf

[jrbudwig]

Hello,

Assuming that you are looking for the OEM Insulators (Bushings) Ford P/N: KC 55490-A for a Ford Stabilizer (C2SZ 5482-B) - see below,

If you are, I purchased replacements from,

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/b-10239.html

Hope this is of assistance and addresses your request.

All the Best,

Jonathan

[Jim Wulf]

Hello,

Assuming that you are looking for the OEM Insulators (Bushings) Ford P/N: KC 55490-A for a Ford Stabilizer (C2SZ 5482-B) - see below,

StablizerRodParts_JScott01122019.jpg

If you are, I purchased replacements from,

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/b-10239.html

Hope this is of assistance and addresses your request.

All the Best,

Jonathan

Jonathon,

Those are the sway bar bushings you show. I think the OP is looking for strut rod bushings.

I've always used the original Ford parts or equivalent, like this:

https://www.wilsontbird.com/parts/1962- ... kit-deluxe

You can buy a kit from Rock Auto, with AC Delco branding, for 17.00.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/for ... shing,7608

[surfmurf]

Hey guys; Found a set of Strut Rod bushings, complete, originals, still in their sealed '60s packages.
Due to a Coil Explosion and resulting engine fire I am re-doing the Ignition wiring now, replacing a MSD 6A (big and visible) with a PerTronix Ignitor lll (entirely inside Distributor) and finally getting to other stuff, like the Strut Rods. SURPRISE - Learned from this discussion (after I unbolted the rigid end of one Strut Rod, that they are adjustable. Oh Oh! Did I goof-up?

My immediate problem is: On the castellated nut, bushing end of the Strut Rod, I have tried a
1 1/8" socket (too small, only fits over the castellated end, not the whole nut) and a 1 3/16" socket (too big, slips around Nut, could "round" it). Due to the nut's enclosed (270 degree encirclement) position sockets are about the only tool I can get at this nut with. Have NOT yet tried heating it with a torch, just liberally sprayed with my favorite "loosener", Blaster, which loosened 2 of the 3 nuts. Wish to have correct socket first. It can't be METRIC, for a 1963 Bird, can it? It appears to be OEM stock, fairly well rusted in place. Blaster has always worked for me, WD-40 is waste of $. Need some vintage car wisdom here. How do I get this nut loose, what tool or trick might someone out there have please?? Or is it Metric?? Thank you, Murf
TIP: I did find that by unbolting the rigid end, I can lift the rod a bit to un-censored the bushing end to get a socket on that BIG Nut.

[surfmurf]

My Tip should NOT read "Un-Censored (should read un-cocked = un-tilt or un-tip)". The Rod has an up angle to it that cocks the Nut upward. Tried to correct, but site insists on inserting the word 'un-censored'. Murphy's Law?
I give up, tried 4 times, it insists on 'censored' = wrong word. as Dr. Frankenstine said .... "It's Alive!"

[surfmurf]

With much Blaster soaking, a bit of Dremel reshaping to remove corrosion generated ridges on the Nut, a 1 1/8" socket wrench (that now fits) and a 24" breaker bar I have not moved that nut in 3 days. The Castellated Nut and the Cotter Pin hole still line up. I guess the solution is to buy two replacement Strut Rods, CUT the old rods out and replace them. Murphy's Law is gonna kill me!

[Karl]

G'day,
Are you using a 1/2" drive socket or a 3/4" drive socket.
You can get more leverage on a 3/4" drive socket. You may have to use a hoist as well.
Karl.

[Jim Wulf]

With much Blaster soaking, a bit of Dremel reshaping to remove corrosion generated ridges on the Nut, a 1 1/8" socket wrench (that now fits) and a 24" breaker bar I have not moved that nut in 3 days. The Castellated Nut and the Cotter Pin hole still line up. I guess the solution is to buy two replacement Strut Rods, CUT the old rods out and replace them. Murphy's Law is gonna kill me!

Try heating the nut with a propane torch (not super hot), melting candle wax into the threads, and then using the wrench. I've been able to remove nuts/bolts with this method when nothing else worked. Worth a try before cutting at least.

[surfmurf]

As aforementioned, I had not used heat yet, can't move my HEAVY torch over to getting it under the car. Never heard of the candle wax method. This old dog just learned a new trick. Very interesting. I have to get a new Propane torch, mine went missing, but I certainly will try YOUR unique and enlightening idea. And will report back. Thank you. Murf

[surfmurf]

[quote]G'day,
Are you using a 1/2" drive socket or a 3/4" drive socket.
You can get more leverage on a 3/4" drive socket. You may have to use a hoist as well.
Karl.[/quote]

Never owned a 3/4" drive. Haven't seen one since the late 1950s when working on GM V-16 287A U.S. Submarine diesel engines (where all the parts weighed more than I did @ 143# while each of the 16 Heads was 155#, Rod & Piston was 180#).
Use a hoist? What is "hoist" in down-under terminology? Like a Chain Fall or a Come-along cable winch? This nut is enclosed on 5 (of 6) sides by steel framing and I can barely get a 1 1/8" Socket and Breaker Bar in there to the Nut. I'm using a 2 1/2 ton floor jack with a few additional blocks of wood on top & still can barely get car elevated high enough to swing the 24" Breaker Bar. My 155# (11 stone?) person, with great leverage, could not budge it 1 mm. Gonna try Jedi Master Jim Wulf's idea using the 'force', called 'Wax' in 2019. Thanks for input, Murf

[RedBird64]

My old mechanic buddy used the wax trick to remove my exhaust manifold bolts - works great!
It's like soldering pipe; where ever you apply the heat, the solder or wax will flow to.

Scott