Coil Voltage?

[RAVEN]

Points to ponder (pun intended)
The ignition systems on our Birds (readily 64 and 65) are a two stage voltage system. In START mode the ignition switch feeds 12 volts to the coil wound at approx. 8 volts (over drives coil), this gives the coil a kick and inturn increases the coil output, at about 30% increase. Plus increases the voltage across the points and causes a higher arch voltage, shortening their life.
When key is released to the run mode, the coil supply voltage drops due to the resistor wire coming into the circuit and dropping the voltage to approx. 8 volts, which is where the coil is wound for and reducing the points arch.
The great invention called Pertronix came to be the cure all of faultering/misfiring spark problems, all due to the fact that you were upping the spark plug voltage, by about the 30% in the run mode, giving a hotter spark, and replacing the burning points with an electronic switching system, giving reduced maintenance needs.
With this over driving of the coil, you would see a failure rate climb proportional to the voltage, this is why you had to change out the coil also rated to 12 volts.
Just recently I got involved with a 65 Special Landau which had a ghost in the ignition. The car would run fine but intermittently shut down, then 2 seconds later restart and run fine. Car had Pertronix installed, factory coil, plus no 12v supply to pertronix. Not knowing if resistor wire was by-passed I was forced to open up the dash to see if the 12 volt feed was buried behind the dash.
If a 12v jumper was fed from battery to coil, the car ran perfectly, and never missed a beat. (the ignition switch was removed from the circuit).
Low and behold it was found that ignition switch wiring harness was failing on the back of the switch, and the switch was also failing (coming apart). Replaced both and problem left. Never worried about resistor wire, even though I was getting a floating 9/11v coil feed.
One month later, car came back with same ignition drop out problem. This time I opened dash and found the resistor wire, (located behind lower kick panel of passenger side dash and radio. The resistor wire runs parallel to the harness and one end is at radio, the other in the harness plugs at the fuse panel. I made up a jumper with bullet ends and simply unplugged the resistor wire and plugged in the jumper. The car started no problem, ran smooth, never missed a beat, and had a clean, non changing 14v supply, equal to battery voltage.
Problem solved and car had bollocks.

[doc1976]

I actually did splice into the green/red stripe wire and now the car runs like a top. I did it discreetly so you can't tell unless you are really looking for it. I ran that to the pos terminal of the coil and unhooked the ignition switch wire.

Probably not the "right" way to do it but it did solve my issue. I hated cutting that original wire and like i said, I could have chased it but wiring issues and me don't get along too well.

Thanks again for the help guys. you guys have a been a huge help!!