Temp Gauge Wiring

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Karl
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by Karl »

Thanks for the info.
Pegged? So that is when the needle goes to the Hot side of the gauge?
Karl.
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bbogue
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by bbogue »

Karl wrote: Wed Jul 24, 2019 6:48 pm Thanks for the info.
Pegged? So that is when the needle goes to the Hot side of the gauge?
Karl.
Yes Karl, that’s what I took it to mean. I believe the expression “pegged” comes from an effort to describe an analog gauge needle which goes so far towards its high end that the needle touches the opposite side of the peg on which it rests at zero.

Bill
Past owner 1961 Thunderbird - Heritage Burgundy Metallic

If there are no dogs in heaven, send me where they went. - Will Rogers
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Karl
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by Karl »

Thanks 👍
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stevegintn
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by stevegintn »

Karl, yes - Bill pegged the definition of 'pegged' (sorry about the use of American automotive jargon).

As Bill said, my fuel gauge also reads inaccurately (on a Full tank, shows maybe three-quarters?).

I have ordered a new IVR from Mac's - if I can get it installed, we'll see if it solves the problems?
Steve G.
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MN63Tbird
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by MN63Tbird »

Karl is correct the constant voltage regulator supply's a reduced voltage to the Temp and Fuel gauges. If its bad both gauges will not read correctly. The voltage regulator reduces the voltage from 12 volts to around 5 volts. You can check to see if your gauge is working by hooking up 3 D cell batteries in series to give 4.5 volts. Hook one side to the power wire and the other to ground or the case of the gauge. Its a rough check but will show is the gauges are working properly.

From my experience not all the secondary constant voltage regulators are similar. I had tried a solid state one from NAPA and it did not work at all. The one from Birds Nest worked on my 63.

The access is through the Clock- easy to remove only one screw on the bottom. Disconnect the light. The regulator looks similar to your Macs pic. There may be a radio noise suppressor coil on one end. That I found is not necessary to replace. Just disconnect the two leads and hook up to the new unit. Mine got fried working with the fuel gauge. It had a bit of smoky look to it when I replaced it.

MN63
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by stevegintn »

OK, got the IVR from Mac's and installed it in 10 minutes - temp gauge appears to be working - after a few minutes idling, hit exact midpoint of needle range and stayed there. I do plan to infrared gauge it for an exact measurement (soon as I can get to the tool store in memfis).

Now to top of my gas tank and see if it's fixed, too?

Btw, my first-ever cruise-in was awesome - saw some cool rides and heard some great music. But when I went to leave I realized that I would be driving my car AT NIGHT for the first time. First thing I noticed, NO DASH LIGHTS. Hoping that's just a fuse?

But tooling down the highway at about 60 on a cool summer night - magical!
Steve G.
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bbogue
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by bbogue »

Cool. I’m glad the IVR worked for you. And yes, our cars are much appreciated at cruise-ins, my favorite kind of show.
Regarding the no dash lights. First confirm you rotated the headlight switch. It may have been fully dimmed. There’s a coiled wire that’s part of the headlight switch that controls dimming. You may have to replace the switch. I replaced mine but the dimming function only lasted briefly. Thankfully, the brightest setting of the switch still works and that’s ok with me.
Good luck.

Bill
Past owner 1961 Thunderbird - Heritage Burgundy Metallic

If there are no dogs in heaven, send me where they went. - Will Rogers
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by stevegintn »

bbogue wrote: Sun Jul 28, 2019 10:38 am Cool. I’m glad the IVR worked for you. And yes, our cars are much appreciated at cruise-ins, my favorite kind of show.
Regarding the no dash lights. First confirm you rotated the headlight switch. It may have been fully dimmed. There’s a coiled wire that’s part of the headlight switch that controls dimming. You may have to replace the switch. I replaced mine but the dimming function only lasted briefly. Thankfully, the brightest setting of the switch still works and that’s ok with me.
Good luck.

Bill
Bill, well I thought the IVR fixed it? - went out yesterday, turned the key on, and gauge immediately went to far right. I'm going to re-check my connection at the sensor.

And yes, I turned the light switch ccw, but made no diff. So I guess a new switch is in my future?

One other item - it occurred to me, with key on the genny light comes on, but oil pressure does NOT. So, I guess that's another sensor to replace?
Steve G.
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by bbogue »

Steve,
In other posts I’ve read that some folks have had issues with IVRs from some suppliers. Maybe that’s the secret for you. I think I’d see if Mac’s would replace or refund the item first. Are you sure you got a solid state model, not some copy of the original from overseas?
Good idea to check the wiring. Old, brittle, corroded wires can easily cause problems like shorts and voltage loss.
And yes, I think an oil pressure sender/sensor is in your future.
It never ends.

Bill
Past owner 1961 Thunderbird - Heritage Burgundy Metallic

If there are no dogs in heaven, send me where they went. - Will Rogers
bbogue
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by bbogue »

Bird Nest shows both a copy of the original IVR and an electronic version, $25 and $45, respectively. In the description of the original type they describe a procedure to test it. Given the price of the one you purchased from Mac’s and the lack of “electronic” or “solid state” in its description, I think Mac’s is likely similar to the original so you might try testing yours using the Bird Nest procedure.
Good luck. Keep plugging. You’ll get there.

Bill
Last edited by bbogue on Tue Jul 30, 2019 9:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Past owner 1961 Thunderbird - Heritage Burgundy Metallic

If there are no dogs in heaven, send me where they went. - Will Rogers
stevegintn
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by stevegintn »

bbogue wrote: Tue Jul 30, 2019 7:36 am Bird Nest shows both a copy of the original IVR and an electronic version, $25 and $45, respectively. In the description of the original type they describe a procedure to test it. Given the price of the one you purchased from Mac’s and the lack of “electronic” in its description, I think it’s likely a copy of the original so you might try testing yours using the Bird Nest procedure.
Good luck. Keep plugging. You’ll get there.

Bill
OK, I see what you mean about the old style vs. the electronic one. I guess the test procedure is using a 12v test light? (input side always on, output side blinks).

The one from Mac's was $40 (with shipping), so hardly worth the hassle of returning it.
Steve G.
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bbogue
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by bbogue »

Steve,
I doubt Mac’s has the solid state one, but it might be worth a phone call to complain about the lack of quality of the new part they sold you. They might even have the solid state version and it not be shown on their website. At least, they should refund your $ without your having to return the part. They’d just throw it away anyway. Squeaky wheels get greased, so squeak, Steve, if you wish.

Bill
Past owner 1961 Thunderbird - Heritage Burgundy Metallic

If there are no dogs in heaven, send me where they went. - Will Rogers
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by MN63Tbird »

Steve, Regarding the lack of lights on the dash and the Oil Sensor light not working before you start chasing down new sensors or headlight switches check on the wiring and bulbs. Events like these are more likely linked to work being performed in that area vs a random sensor or switch all of a sudden not functioning.

You pulled off the Clock to get to the voltage regulator. This has a light in it and is close to the feed wire for all the dash lights. It is easy to burn out a fuse if something was accidentally shorted when removing the clock or gauges. If you dont disconnect the battery while you are working on the electrical items its easy to do. I know from experience. All the dash lights are linked and fused by a 4 amp fuse. Your wiring diagram will show this. Check the fuse.

If you have pulled out the gas/temp gauge to look at the unit, there are lights there also. They are a bit tricky to reinsert if they pop out. If they pop out the light wont work. For the light bulb to work it requires the socket to be grounded to the gauge to complete the circuit. Check the light on the Oil Sensor. It may have pulled out or at worst burned out.


MN63
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stevegintn
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by stevegintn »

MN63Tbird wrote: Wed Jul 31, 2019 10:43 am Steve, Regarding the lack of lights on the dash and the Oil Sensor light not working before you start chasing down new sensors or headlight switches check on the wiring and bulbs. Events like these are more likely linked to work being performed in that area vs a random sensor or switch all of a sudden not functioning.

You pulled off the Clock to get to the voltage regulator. This has a light in it and is close to the feed wire for all the dash lights. It is easy to burn out a fuse if something was accidentally shorted when removing the clock or gauges. If you dont disconnect the battery while you are working on the electrical items its easy to do. I know from experience. All the dash lights are linked and fused by a 4 amp fuse. Your wiring diagram will show this. Check the fuse.

If you have pulled out the gas/temp gauge to look at the unit, there are lights there also. They are a bit tricky to reinsert if they pop out. If they pop out the light wont work. For the light bulb to work it requires the socket to be grounded to the gauge to complete the circuit. Check the light on the Oil Sensor. It may have pulled out or at worst burned out.


MN63
Thanks, again, Bill - I will give Mac's a call. I found the electronic IVR on Bird's Nest and will get it from them if nothing else pans out. I'm going to get a test light in a few minutes, to try to test the new IVR.

MN63, I see what you are saying - alas, I did NOT disconnect the battery, before I installed the new IVR (but dash lights were not working beforehand). So, hoping it's the fuse?

I read that a bad radio noise suppressor can also interfere with IVR operation? (my radio is also non-working)

Steve G.

Re the temp gauge housing, I have not looked, but does it just pop out, like the clock?
Steve G.
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stevegintn
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Re: Temp Gauge Wiring

Post by stevegintn »

P.S. so are you saying, ALL the dash lights are in serial circuit (like old Christmas tree lights), so If one is bad, NONE will work?
Steve G.
'62 TBird HT
'61 TBird HT (parts car)
'88 Ranger XLT
'02 Sportrac 4x4
2012 Dodge RAM 4x4
'49 Ford 8N
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