Upgrade to dual master cylinder

[michaelperazzo]

I have been driving around with a bad power brake booster since I got the car in Dec. Been putting off getting it fixed because I wanted to get rid of the single master cylinder setup and the pricey to repair original booster. Well today I noticed the single master cylinder was low on fluid again? When I looked closer I notice its leaking all over the steering box below, which also has the valve problem where a slight turn to the right results in a surprising quick jump to the right. So it needs to come out also and get rebuilt. I was hoping to put this off for awhile, but with the old MC leaking I need to make some choices. I have a booster and dual MC setup ordered from eBay, its for disc and drums but according to the seller can work with the original all drums setup, which I want to keep. So my questions are has anyone upgraded to a newer booster and dual MC and kept the original drum setup?
And is it a lot easier to remove the steering box with the MC and booster removed?

The eBay store I bough the setup from is Tomsclassic.

[Cliff Rankin]

I had my original booster go out for a 2nd time. I hate paying 2 times in a row for the same thing as it cost a lot of money.
I thought at one time during this I would go to disc in the front. I changed my mind I’m staying with drum. I have a 65 set up for spare parts and the after market on the 64 that was on it when purchased. I put this set up on mine
From e bay (see pic). Can’t pull up the one you are talking about maybe it’s the same one. Never liked the way it worked.
I like lots of peddle with good power assist stroke. I like the peddles to line up like they are supposed to when you swing your right foot over to slow down. If you dig up bones on this site I posted somewhere when I found a vender who sold me the booster kit. It was cheap and easy to do. Seems the “bellow” is what always fails
That was easy. So lately I reinstalled it with the mustang duel master cylinder that was in a post not very long ago. Got the adaptors and stuff at advance. They crossed every part number and had everything in house at a reasonable cost. Still need to do my cross brace but I could happier. I’m staying with stock drum and booster and Mustang
Duel master cylinder. Also when I went to the set up
I did not change anything else. I did not bleed wheels or adjust shoes and the difference was night and day.

[redstangbob]

I have a booster and dual MC setup ordered from eBay, its for disc and drums

drum brakes need a M/C with a residual valve, discs should not have it as it will make them drag. get a M/C for all drums, and the same size bore as original. JMO Bob C

[Cliff Rankin]

Could you please elaborate on how you can tell if it has the valves or not as it seems there are different pressure valves built in for drum and disc depending on the set up. According to several brake aftermarket manufacturers web sites. Thanks

[Cliff Rankin]

Well after doing some research it seems that some master cylinders do not have residual valves because of the spring in the wheel cylinder that does the same thing. Another web site I looked at when I posted my question said there are different pressure valves for disc and drum in certain
Master cylinders. Another showed external valves that could be installed. You would think when I purchased mine and asked questions that would have come up.
Anyway I’m happy with the ford master cylinder for the
Mustang and my stock booster. Here’s a picture of the part
Info I fixed mine with. It was cheap and easy.

[michaelperazzo]

OK, so I got pulled off the master cylinder, now trying to remove the booster. Wow this is a PITA! I can barely fit down in there and the "C" clip is totally blocked by the column and a bunch of wires and fuse box. I don't see a way to get to it as its facing the wrong way. I decided to undo the 4 bolts holding the booster and see if I can move the assembly over to gain access to the "C" clip. The upper left nut is really hard to get to, not enough room. Still fighting with it.

Anyone else know an easier way to remove the booster?

[OldRusty1]

Just completed the conversion to a split circuit Master Cylinder for my '62 convertible with drums all around. Works great and allowed me to retain the T-Bird's original power brake booster and maintain the original "Jelly Jar" look of the Master Cylinder. I wanted to remain as close as possible to the OEM look. No modifications were required to the shock tower to firewall brace and there is plenty of clearance - great fit. Pricey, but I felt it was worth it.
Got my parts from Stainless Steel Brake Corp.



https://ssbrakes.com/i-22768467-1964-5- ... c1001.html

https://ssbrakes.com/i-10094012-aluminu ... a0730.html

[Karl]

G'day.
If I was to change anything about the originality of my 63 Bird it would be to change to a dual circuit braking system. Just for safety.
Thanks for the heads up, I will be looking into this.
Karl.

[GeorgeG]

Very nice! Great option if you don't want to mod the cross brace. Really pricey though, but might be worth the safety benefit.

George