63 Hydraulic wiper switch repair.

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Karl
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

63 Hydraulic wiper switch repair.

Post by Karl » Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:54 pm

G'day,
Anybody interested in repairing their original 63 wiper switch to operate the windscreen washers?
The switch that I have had no original electical switch at the back of the control switch to turn the washers on and off.
I purchased a new switch from a company called "Ellements 14" and the part number for the switch is a push buttom switch 1212C2 N/C (normally closed).
Made up a adapter to suit the main body and to hold the new switch in place. I also had to make up a plastic spacer to position the main shaft in the right place to make shure the gears engage for the wiper motor control to work.

Original switch body and control shaft.
Image
New switch.
Image
Adapter.
Image

Spacer washer.
Image
Assembled switch.
Image

Now all I have to do is install the switch into the car, there should be enough room under the dash.
Karl.
Last edited by Karl on Fri Aug 14, 2015 6:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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RedBird64
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Location: Bothell Wa.

Post by RedBird64 » Sat Feb 08, 2014 5:56 pm

Very nice (and clever) fix.

Scott
1964 Coupe Wimbledon white/Rangoon Red w/black int. Owned for 41 years. It was my folks car before that (not orig owners). VTCI # 12013.

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Karl
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by Karl » Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:58 am

Update.
I installed the switch today, what a job.
To fit the cable to the wiper motor you have to remove the wiper motor from the car, which wasn't that bad.
It was under the dash that was a pain, I would place the switch in the position and in doing so would knock the right hand indicator bulb out of the back of the dash. You can't put the bulb back in with the switch in so I had to remove the switch and place the bulb back in. ( that took a few goes!!)
I didn't realise but the switch that I used has the body close to the terminal blades to protect them and on the original wiring the spade connections have a large rubber boot to insulate them, the two don't go together. I just made up two jumper wires.
Anyway the end result is that I now have windscreen washers!
The switch that came out of my car, the plastic is broken as well, on the internet I have found that there is a replacement switch for a 64 or 65 (I think, anyway a later model) that looks very similar to the part that is broken on mine, does anybody know if I could use this part on a 63 switch?
Karl.

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texastomeh
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Location: Dallas, TX

Post by texastomeh » Sun Apr 27, 2014 1:43 am

THANX for the posts and pictures Karl!! :cool:

I need to do the same to the switch on my '63 HT.

Tom
Tom Hartfield
"GROWING old was GREAT! BEING old SUCKS!"
"Seems like all the guys that know how to fix America are too busy working on old cars!"
'63 TBird HT
'53 Corvette Replica
TR186 Triton Bass Boat

omc4u
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Re: 63 Hydraulic wiper switch repair.

Post by omc4u » Wed May 23, 2018 9:23 pm

Karl,

Do you have any updated information or sizes for the switch you used? I tried googling the part and I come up with nothing from the company mentioned. Do you possibly have the specs on the switch? Such as he following:

Circuit type
Current rating
Voltage rating


Thanks for any input

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Karl
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: 63 Hydraulic wiper switch repair.

Post by Karl » Thu May 24, 2018 3:56 am

G'day omc4u.
I purchased the switch from a company in Australia, that used to be "Farnell" now they are called "Element 14.
Here is the link which will take you to the page.
http://au.element14.com/apem/1212c2/pus ... a%2Fsearch
The tech sheet will give you all the specs.

The switch itself is just a generic (normally on) switch. You should be able to pick one up in America I would imagine. Just something that can handle 12 volts.
The trick is you will need an adapter to join the switch to the dash switch. In my case the di cast had broken away and there was nothing to hold anything in place. I used 3 grub screws to hold the adapter in place but I was worried that if I screwed the grub screws in to tight I would further damage the existing Ford switch.
When it is assembled, the original switch on the dash pushes the new switch off, when you pull on the knob on the dash this releases the new switch back to the normal on position.

If all else fails I have one switch here and I have a few adapters, just send me a private message and I will post you one for free.

Happy motoring.
Karl.
1963 Thunderbird Hardtop

rabatvilla
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Re: 63 Hydraulic wiper switch repair.

Post by rabatvilla » Sun Sep 02, 2018 8:20 pm

Hello

Very nice fix now, how did you deal with the cable running to the hydraulic motor? I read that you cannot replace the cable due to it being all one unit. By the looks of what you did this may not be true and the cable does indeed come out of the switch. Am I correct?

Thank you

Joe

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Karl
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: 63 Hydraulic wiper switch repair.

Post by Karl » Mon Sep 03, 2018 8:18 am

G'day Joe.
Yes that is correct, the switch and the cable is one unit. In saying that they are assembled from parts.

My bowden cable was in bad shape and the switch was hard to turn so I wanted to replace this as well.
The outer part of the cable is swaged into the main body of the switch. You can't pull the inner part of the cable out because the end that goes onto the wiper motor has a small thick washer placed over the inner wire and the end of the wire has been crimped to stop the washer from coming off.
The other end of the wire that goes into the wiper switch has been crimped onto a small piece of diecast that has a rack profile cut into it, this locates onto the gear that is on the end of the knob shaft. As you turn the knob, the gear moves the rack and this pulls and pushes the bowden cable in and out. The other end of the bowden cable moves the control lever on the wiper motor.
Also on the wiper switch there is a spring and ball set up. This is at 90deg to the rack, this helps hold the rack in a set position so the speed on the wiper does not change.

I wanted to change the cable because it was bent and all the protective coating was damaged. I used some cable that I purchased from a motor mower shop and it worked sort of OK, but if I ever pulled it apart again I would replace the cable again. The new outer cable is smaller in dia than the original. This caused a problem at the wiper motor end. The clamp would not hold the outer cable in place because it would not clamp down on the smaller dia outer cable. I can't remember what I did but it would of been a simple fix like make a new clamp or make a sleeve to go over the cable to clamp down on. Again from memory for the wiper motor end, the inner part of the cable (which was a bit thinner) I would off just crimped the end of the new cable with a hammer and anvil to hold the washer onto the new cable. I may of used the old washer or made a new one up. I can't remember. The bowen cable is made from a tensile steel so it is hard and doesn't bend but you still can squash it with a ball pein hammer and the jaws of a vice.

For the switch end, I made up a sleeve that went over the tang that protrudes from the body of the switch and the outer of the bowden cable to hold the bowden cable in position. I used grub screws to hold two parts together.

For the inner cable, I made up a small sleeve with grub screws and joined the old bowen cable to the new bowden cable together. I could not get the old inner cable out of the rack. In saying that I didn't really try hard as I thought that if I did get it out how would I hold the new cable in position. Diecast can't be solded or welded. This sleeve for the inner bowden cable ran inside the sleeve for the outer bowden cable.

Hopes this helps.
Karl.
1963 Thunderbird Hardtop

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