Millennial bought a classic (55)

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T-Bird Bob
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 11:00 pm

Re: Millennial bought a classic (55)

Post by T-Bird Bob »

Hello Yummy,
I don't really know what you mean by "spring next to the bolt position".
It looks like someone tried to convert your carb to manual choke. You can keep that and just add a car-parts-store choke cable to your setup (indicated in red in the bottom of picture).
For the auto choke to work, you need to replace the white bowl with a bi-metal spring and add the fresh air tube (indicated in green).
It looks like that access hole in the manifold was blocked, so I don't know if that is still possible. There should be a small rubber grommet in a hole in the bottom of the carb at the driver side, where the choke tube is fed with filtered air.
millenials_carburetor.jpg
The auto-choke is described in the manual at page 9:
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/assets ... manual.pdf

You can keep the manual choke as a theft protection, most people don't know anymore what a choke is...

Good luck!

Bob

yummy
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2020 7:51 pm

Re: Millennial bought a classic (55)

Post by yummy »

Good eyes Bob!

Grabbed some parts that the local shop, after I pull the plug in the manifold... which of pieces of hardware should I use in the bags?
IMG_5689.jpg

T-Bird Bob
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 11:00 pm

Re: Millennial bought a classic (55)

Post by T-Bird Bob »

Well, I have never seen a parts store choke kit....
I would think you need the cylinder in the bottom left corner to go in the manifold. Just like the position 1 in the picture.
Make sure the passage for hot air to the choke housing is open (red circle).
Also, I don't know if you have a cap with a bimetal spring that actuates the lever?

Then you have to bend the tube to connect the cylinder in the manifold with filtered air at the driver side of the carb. (green line)
I don't know if the fitting is there to connect the tube or not, but there is no fitting on the carb side.
The insulation in the top left of your picture is not needed because the air is cold in the tube.
choke_1955.png
Good luck!

Bob

yummy
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2020 7:51 pm

Re: Millennial bought a classic (55)

Post by yummy »

Thanks for the diagram! Two questions:

Any tips on removing the plug without removing the intake manifold?

Do I use a brass hammer and bang it into the air passage on the intake?
BFD3FD89-CD3A-412B-B749-1DA98149C3AF.jpeg

T-Bird Bob
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 11:00 pm

Re: Millennial bought a classic (55)

Post by T-Bird Bob »

Hello Yummy,
No, you won't be able to push it through.
You should clean up the slot and screw it out.
Here is a set of pictures in another forum that explains that:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... lp.831048/
I think you will have to drill out the center to insert the tube ad make sure the passage is free to the side.

Hope that helps,

Bob

yummy
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2020 7:51 pm

Re: Millennial bought a classic (55)

Post by yummy »

Okay, I think if I can just rely on the manual choke that will due just fine for me :) Put the (rebuilt) carb back on and attached the fuel line & etc... put the key in and it started right up!

I will need to tune the carburetor a bit, right after I put the car into gear (reverse) it dies. Any quick tips?

ICON 1956
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Re: Millennial bought a classic (55)

Post by ICON 1956 »

Sounds to me after you adjusted you restricted the choke of air.
1956 Thunderbird Sage Green
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T-Bird Bob
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 11:00 pm

Re: Millennial bought a classic (55)

Post by T-Bird Bob »

Hi Yummy,
First you need to adjust your hot idle:
1-get your engine up to temp.
2-release choke completely (flaps open, handle all in).
3-put vehicle in drive (BUT MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T MOVE - use wheel chucks!)
4- use idle speed screw on carbs driver side to adjust idle speed to something around 500RPM (or 600maybe)
(If your tachometer doesn't work, make it going as slow as possible when still smooth).

To set up your choke idle speed, you need to let the engine cool. I guess that takes several hours (Ideally over night) because 500lbs of cast iron and 20quarts of water store a lot of energy and release it through radiation and minimal convection only. Be patient!

Once it is cold (3 movies and one season of Game of Thrones later...)
1-press your accelerator slightly and pull the choke out fully
Now your high idle screw on the right side of the carb (RED) should be engaged on the section 1 (ORANGE) on the high idle cam (GREEN).
Choke flaps should be fully closed
high_idle_cam.jpg
(You probably need to zoo in a little)

Adjust it to something like 1200RPM in drive - MAKE SURE AGAIN THE CAR CAN'T MOVE! (and at 1200rpm, the car has more torque!)
Now if you put the choke half way in, the idle cam should engage in section 2 and give you a lower high idle.
When the temp needle starts moving you can put in the choke all the way and the idle cam should be facing the high idles screw in section 3 and be completely disengaged.
Engine should return to regular hot idle.

Good luck!

Bob

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