Vintage Thunderbird Club International

Monroe doe not list anything. Do you have a part number? I'm not sure what you mean a wire to hold them together. Are you talking about keeping the shock compressed when new from the shock factory? I'm talking about actually on the car. This is the part in question... My car has these on both rear s...

Just picked up a '63 hardtop a couple weeks ago to join my '55. Going thru all the deferred maintenance from the previous owners. Seems like front shocks are fairly hard to come by but they don't look like they should be anything special...just an eye opening on the lower side, but otherwise looks l...

Speedometer Service in Colorado Springs. Old school shop... He's rebuild every vintage speedo tach, generator and starter in ever car I've owned for the last 10 or 15 years. He does mail service and I used to send him stuff when I lived away from the springs. He rebuilt my tbirds tach and speedo abo...

To add to the other advice, another restriction to check is the section of soft line on the feed line to the fuel pump. They're notorious for swelling nearly closed inside from the modern fuels but looking fine on the outside. If it hasn't been replaced yet, it's worth doing... Buy new, not nos sinc...

I hate to possibly throw a monkey wrench into this and it may or may not make a difference... First, I think it's awesome folks are out there researching these cars to this level. So, a large manufacturer like Ford needed to keep the assembly lines running. Any delay was a major loss of money and wo...

I'm not totally sure what you're saying, but I don't think it's correct. When you turn the key to the on/run position, 12v goes from the I post on the ign sw (the under dash switch you put the key into) to the ballast resistor. The output side of the resistor feeds less than 12v to the + post of the...

Should have an ignition hot to the "+" on the coil from the ballast in turn being fed from the ignition switch (assuming neg ground since you have a ballast resistor) "-" on the coil goes to the distributor points...when the points close, it completes the circuit to ground and al...

There are combination U-joints that should get you where you need to be without having to try to find a yoke. a good driveline or differential shop should be able to help you. If you don't have one local, talk to Drive Line Service in Colorado Springs.

It's possible your vent doors seal a lot better than mine. It's fine when it's cool out, but it can get warmer than it should when it's hot out

I know on every vintage car I've owned, my t-brid included, there was measurable heat radiating from the vents of there was hot water running thru the core. It's most noticeable on warm days. Casco makes a fairly inexpensive and relatively easy to install kit that converts the vacuum valve to a mech...

If it's stuck open, it does no harm to leave it be. Warm up may take a little longer. Many people get rid of it altogether. If is stuck closed, it needs to be dealt with. You'd normally see the paint on the intake burned in the middle where the crossover is. You can sometimes free it by alternativel...

The preformed carpet is the way to go. It has the proper edges and the vinyl heal section in the proper place and should have the jute backing included. I used a set from Larry's 5 or 6 years ago and it was great. At the time, it was one of the least expensive sets, although right now, they show it ...

Every state has different regulations. They're usually posted on the specific state's DMV website. In Colorado, you can use year of manufacture plates...older plates had the year printed/embossed on them. There are a lot of rules that go with it...has to be a legit, actual license plate (not a repro...

I can't see the notch on your choke cover to see how it's adjusted. Is your choke setting when you hit the gas? If it's adjusted way lean or the little lever under it isn't engaged in the loop of the bimetalic spring, you won't get a fast idle since your choke isn't setting. In the pic, the choke is...

Starting without needing the choke is usually a good indication of a very rich condition. The fuel has to be coming from somewhere and, unless the carb was rejetted or a power valve with too high a setting was installed, it's from a malfunction, as prev mentioned. Daddio gives good advice, it could ...