Vintage Thunderbird Club International

This was the link I followed. You need to do a little modification (cutting the stud on the booster).

I think this is the easiest path if you aren't stuck on original parts.

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I struggled to find a authentic one that was not junk. Eventually I followed a post on this site to install a generic booster with a modern master cylinder. Unfortunately it doesn't look original, but it works well. When it comes to brakes I just wanted them to work and be serviceable in the future....

Holy crap you guys are rockstars.. No wonder I couldn't find it! I tried every version of "seal " I could think of, but its not a seal. Now that makes much more sense! I have removed all my seals in the engine bay at this point, but I could probably put them back together and take a pictur...

Does this show up in any if the assembly manuals? I'm not home now but can look later this holiday weekend. Thank you. I have the original Ford service manual and its not in there. I'm waiting on delivery of the assembly manual (delayed for the holidays). Hopefully we can find it there. Worst case ...

The point of my post was that there are many differences between the 3 Flairbird years and not knowing which year we are trying to assist on often makes us look like fools. As my signature says, my car is a 64 and the radiator shroud seems to be different. It looks like jtschug has identified it. T...

Please see my post on "remove bearing shift selector". Tough to help at times. Terry 64HT I'm guessing this might have been for another thread. I looked up that thread and I don't think anything pertains to this part. Sigh.. I have had anymore luck in the last few days figuring out what i...

It looks curved because heat has warped it, but was originally flat. Its fastened to the underside of the support with 3 small bolts. The radiator would be underneath the part protruding into the engine bay. Its made of the same material as the radiator "side" seals (which are also hard, b...

I think it's just called "hood to radiator support seal". I've seen it in most of the supplier's catalogs. Hope this helps Terry 64HT I don't think so.. The "hood to radiator support seal" is actually only on the hood and shaped like angle iron (except rubber). I do have that pa...

Ok..my googlefoo has failed me. What the heck is this plastic/rubbery part that goes from behind the hood latch over the top of the radiator called?I think it may be part C5AZ-8327, but the pictures don't match the part.

Any help would be very appreciated.

I know this post is old..... but I thought I would revive it. I was excited when I first came across it as it seemed like the OP may have the perfect solution. A universal brake booster with the original brake pedal bracket (with some small modification). Unfortunately, it will not work. The univers...

I'm wondering if anyone would be interested in the underhood cruise parts? I have decided that I'm not going to bother even putting the components back (removed for underhood painting). Based on everything I have read, I'm just going to put a modern cruise system in and wire it to the steering wheel...

Great suggestions and I will start down that path. However, as a Canadian its tough. Shipping is crazy from the US (for big stuff). However, that may be my only option and I just need to suck it up! I had a good lookover the frame after my first post and its not terrible. Definitely something I coul...

Ok.. I have been moving along on my car and finally removed the back seat. Sigh... The frame is in BAD shape. Frame is completely rusted through in many places. The springs are rusted, but nothing broke. Material looks salvageable with some reinforcement around the hog ring areas... So the frame.. W...

I think a lot of people remove the actual shaft as its easier. There is one bolt (12pt though) at the steering box (under the brake booster) that holds a splined clamp. You will need a long extension to make the job easier, but it can be done without it. Back that bolt out and you can pull the whole...

I appreciate the suggestion.. but after conversion to CAD, shipping and import fees it comes in at close to $900 here. Tough to swallow when the cast one was $28. Was at the machine shop today talking about the plan. He thinks I have a good plan and recipe for a solid street build with good reliabil...