Vintage Thunderbird Club International

Hoses are gone (to 64ZCODE).

Thanks.

- radiator hoses? Fit ‘64 and ‘65, according to Bird Nest.

2 each; top and bottom. New; never installed.

Free to a good home. Just shoot me a PM.

Not meaning to hijack this thread, but I’m currently replacing the (standard)
idler arm bushing on my ‘65 hardtop.i’m wondering:

is there a good reason to (or not to) drill and add a grease zerk at the idler arm?

TIA for your thoughts.

Grind the head off, then use an extractor?

The original harness includes a small diameter ground wire to case of alternator. I’ve added a braided strap from frame to upper/large alternator mounting bolt.

They’re yours.
Shoot me an email {ghoxie@yahoo.com} with your mailing address
and I’ll get them in the mail.

for heater hoses (with A.C.)

ignition switch?

I would like to correct my previous post.

Assuming no relay is involved, then the reel switches must be:

- closed when belt is retracted = light is on, and

- open when belt is extended, to turn the light off.

I apologize for any confusion (other than my own).

Maybe too much eggnog?

Likewise, my’65 has switch only on driver’s side belt.

I don’t believe mine has a relay, and definitely does not have switch at the light,
so I would assume (yes, I know) that the reel switch is open when belt is retracted.

What “breaker” are you checking?

What wiring diagram are you using?

I’m wondering if you have more than one fault.

Does the ammeter move (at all) when you step on the brake pedal?

Not to be a jerk here - have you checked the individual bulbs?

When you plugged in the aftermarket unit,
did any of the symptoms change?

+1 for NSS

Melling 57HV; for FE engines.

New; original box; never run, but sold without gaskets.

Asking $40 and I’ll pay shipping from MN.

I’m with him -

It’s not a C4, but it does need a front pump.