Vintage Thunderbird Club International

If you have the old one, get it recored. Mine had been frozen and burst, but a radiator shop in Ferndale, Michigan was able to make it good as new.

Hi Terry,

Yes, you are right. I have only had 1966 T-birds and where 1964's are different is a little outside my area of knowledge.

A phantom current draw should be measured in Amps, or better yet milli-Amps (mA), not Volts. However, this isn't a phantom current draw. You've identified things that are "on" which will draw power. Many circuits are 'live' with the key off, so it isn't completely surprising that you are f...

Unfortunately here in the USA it is illegal to use airplane or boat fuel in a car because it hasn't had road taxes applied.

I found a mistake on the Thunderbird Ranch 1966 vacuum diagram.

I think those should be closed in Defrost, not sure about A/C

Which heater door? Are you talking about the floor ducts?

Those two things are not close to each other on my car. Something isn’t right.

I have a quick disconnect on my battery because I haven't been able to find the power drain. I just disconnect it every time I park it for the night.

It seems like one person is talking about the shifter lever and the other person is talking about the little lever on the steering column that pushes on the NSS.

For that little one, you will need to get it used. Contact your favorite T-bird parts vendor and ask if they have used parts.

McMaster-Carr sells a lot of weird hardware. You can also try Grainger

Pretty rare. The tri-power intake and carbs from an M-code roadster were not factory equipment in 1966, and never shipped from Ford with a Q-code 428. However, as you know, they do fit on the engine. There were also years in the mid-to late 1960s when these parts were available over the counter and ...

The original radiators can be "re-cored" at a good radiator shop. These used to be in every town 40 years ago, but are not as common as they used to be. If you live in a larger metro area, search for "radiator service" and find a shop that has been in business for a very long tim...

There is no baffle inside. There is a test in the shop manual which takes the sender out of the circuit. I don’t have it with me and I don’t want to steer you wrong. Just look up that section. You might have some built up resistance in the wiring with a corroded connector somewhere. That resistance ...

The circuit breaker is probably OK for a power feed, but check with the multimeter to be sure it has power. The manual instruction says to get power from the relay bus bar, this is the little bridge that goes between the relays. Check that with the multimeter, you should find it has 12V all the time...