Gear shift lever removal, do I need to pull bearing first?

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tbird
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Post by tbird » Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:13 am

The lower bushing is much easier to replace with the column on the bench but why would you go to all the work of taking it out, lower bushing and even the rag joint can be done with column in the car.

There are two ways to do it you can go from the top but the hood hinge has to be removed it helps with the brake booster out going that way I think the easier way is to take out the rear inner fender liner or splash shield. The special caged bolts holding it to the inner fender can be a real problem as the threads are usually corroded or full of sound deadener and they do not have any way to hold them from turning the cages w that hold them will break or they may already be broken if so a good time to replace them. just a note if they have been painted body color from a repaint they are not suppose to be finish should be S-2 which is Black Oxide the liners where installed after painting. Once you are into the bottom of the column area it will be right in front of you if only the bushing needs replacement you may have to dig out what remains of the old one and clean up the inside of the shift tube originally I think that the bushing was vulcanized into the tube.
When you have it cleaned up there will be a half round notch in the top of the tube look at the replacement bushing and you will see the match to it, take a sharp razor blade and cut the bushing in the center of the notch it can then be opened up enough to get it around the steering shaft slide & tap it as required to get it into place flush with the bottom of the tube and into the notch it will now be a tight fit and stay in place. Put everything back in place and you should be done

If you need to replace the rag joint it should be done first and the bushing can then be slipped on without splitting it will do a future addition to this to include the rag joint if required
Jim Mills
VTCI # 8071
VTCI 1964-66 Technical Editor
2002 Thunderbird
1965 Convertible
1962 Convertible (in progress)
1959 Ford Retractable HT
Many parts cars

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jhenry
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Post by jhenry » Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:31 am

I agree with tbird. The lower bushing can be replaced in the car as he described. I did mine from above while the brake booster was out. I did not remove the hood hinge, but had to climb up and lay across the inner fender from the front of the car. My original bushing was MIA.
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SBird
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Post by SBird » Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:12 am

So glad to hear this and so glad I asked. I'll get into it some this weekend. I think I have a few free hours from the grandpa role.
I'll get er done with patience and a lot of help. Thanks Forum guys.

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SBird
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Post by SBird » Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:43 pm

Well, pulling the inner fender was a snap. My bushing is totally gone, just a few remnants laying here and there. Also the tapered plastic cone is there to my surprise. Recieved new bushing and will install this weekend I hope.

I also noticed while searching for my horn issue that I needed to drill out the plastic insert for my horn brush......wouldn't expect that! The vendor says there is only one made.???

Anyway, I noticed that to make my horn work I needed to push in on the center of the steering wheel while pushing the horn ring. I also noticed the steering rod moves forward toward the rag joint a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch when I press on the center of the steering wheel. Is that normal for a case where the bushing is out?

The movement of the steering rod makes me think the bushing job might not turn out well. Any advice or info on this?
I'll get er done with patience and a lot of help. Thanks Forum guys.

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Tbird100636
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Post by Tbird100636 » Sun Apr 28, 2013 12:45 am

SBird - Well, pulling the inner fender was a snap. My bushing is totally gone, just a few remnants laying here and there. Also the tapered plastic cone is there to my surprise. Recieved new bushing and will install this weekend I hope.

I also noticed while searching for my horn issue that I needed to drill out the plastic insert for my horn brush......wouldn't expect that! The vendor says there is only one made.???

Anyway, I noticed that to make my horn work I needed to push in on the center of the steering wheel while pushing the horn ring. I also noticed the steering rod moves forward toward the rag joint a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch when I press on the center of the steering wheel. Is that normal for a case where the bushing is out?

The movement of the steering rod makes me think the bushing job might not turn out well. Any advice or info on this?
The steering shaft movement has no bearing on the longevity of the lower column shift tube bushing. Make sure the rag joint clamp bolts are tight, as part of the 64 horn working is a good ground through the steering shaft, the rag joint, the box, then finally the ground wire to the left inner fender. 1/4"-1/2" movement of the steering shaft...might want to check the upper bearing area... When I did the horn brush way back when in our 64 it just came out intact.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- 390 FE 4V- Chantilly Beige- NEVER done, but beautiful as is.
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- 390 FE 4V- Red (Originally Wimbledon White)- Hood installed and repaint coming... well... not sure when...

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paulr
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Post by paulr » Sun Apr 28, 2013 12:51 am

I needed to drill out the plastic insert for my horn brush...
Not knowing where you bought a new horn brush, I experienced that my new purchased horn brush was too tight for the plastic casing, also. The little spring attached to the end of the brush is intended to promote it forward to keep in contact with the plate. Chalk it up to repop "quality." Ream with caution.
I noticed that to make my horn work I needed to push in on the center of the steering wheel while pushing the horn ring.
This tells me that your horn brush is not in contact with the plate.
The movement of the steering rod makes me think the bushing job might not turn out well.
The lower bushing is not related to the steering shaft forward movement. That sounds more like your shaft is not correctly or securely attached to the rag joint.
Paul
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'64 Landau HT
"Beer, now there's a temporary solution!" ~Homer Simpson

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SBird
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Post by SBird » Wed May 01, 2013 9:51 pm

Well it's done! The bushing is in and I was able to get it pushed into the tube easily, once it was started all the way around. But as they say on "Wheeler Dealers",it was "a bit fiddley"at 7 o'clock as you face the rear of the car. However, removing thr steering wheel would have been 10 times more fiddley'
The car shifts solidly now and that lttle bit of steering wheel chatter at 65 mph is gone.
Thanks for all the help!

The horn issue is ongoing, I might just buy another horn brush from another supplier. My rag joint is bolted up tight and putting a temporary jumper around it didn't solve the problem. I think the grounding in good.
I'll get er done with patience and a lot of help. Thanks Forum guys.

s1nemesis1s
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Re: Gear shift lever removal, do I need to pull bearing first?

Post by s1nemesis1s » Fri May 17, 2019 10:17 pm

Had a question -

I am not able to do much on my 64 right now - mom is really sick - but I have ordered a new shifter to help with the slop in mine.

First, can this be removed and reinstalled with the steering wheel still on the car?

Second, is there some sort of bushing I need to install in the hole the shifter goes back into?

Just planning ahead.

Thanks much!

tbird
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Re: Gear shift lever removal, do I need to pull bearing first?

Post by tbird » Sat May 18, 2019 12:04 am

Your new shift lever should come with a new rubber bushing installed on it, you will need to lub it and the metal end of the shift notch's. Then you should be able to work it in to place. Do a search on the forum and also check the tech heading almost at the bottom of the forum for instructions and possibly some pictures of this job.

Hard part will likely be driving the split roll pin that holds the lever in place.
Jim Mills
VTCI # 8071
VTCI 1964-66 Technical Editor
2002 Thunderbird
1965 Convertible
1962 Convertible (in progress)
1959 Ford Retractable HT
Many parts cars

s1nemesis1s
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Re: Gear shift lever removal, do I need to pull bearing first?

Post by s1nemesis1s » Sat May 18, 2019 11:46 am

Sounds great! I will look it up. I am not in a position to do this job right now - but I can leave the steering wheel on though and do it all externally so to speak - except for sticking it in the column? I really appreciate it - hope mine has a bushing with it!

I am sure from your response that is what you mean, I just would hate to get started in some spare time and not be able to finish.

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sseebart
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Re: Gear shift lever removal, do I need to pull bearing first?

Post by sseebart » Sat May 18, 2019 11:57 am

s1nemesis1s wrote:
Sat May 18, 2019 11:46 am
Sounds great! I will look it up. I am not in a position to do this job right now - but I can leave the steering wheel on though and do it all externally so to speak - except for sticking it in the column? I really appreciate it - hope mine has a bushing with it!

I am sure from your response that is what you mean, I just would hate to get started in some spare time and not be able to finish.
I doubt you'll be able to drive the roll pin out with the steering wheel in place. Removing it is not terribly difficult, though you'll need a steering wheel puller. Not sure where you are, but most U.S. auto parts stores will lend you the tool for free.

~Steve

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